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Pete M

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Everything posted by Pete M

  1. I say go for it. :D
  2. new springs aren't necessary. you can just throw in 1" lift pucks for cheap. :thumbsup:
  3. Pete M

    I hate theives

    A few days ago someone jacked the tires off our utility trailer and swiped the scrap metal out of the back of my 90. now we've discovered that they came back last night and jacked the hubs off the trailer too. bastards. :fs1: makes me want to set out some bait and then sleep outside with the shotgun. even worse is that, once we replace the parts, how on earth would I prevent that from happening again?
  4. You won't notice any difference. :thumbsup: the amount of power it takes to spin a few pounds of steel is nothing compared to the 3500 pound truck moving down the road. If there's a bad U-joint in the front driveshaft, you might feel it. (not necessarily a bad thing since it should be replaced)
  5. best bet is to bypass it altogether. this is one of the ways to do it: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415 also, double check that the oil levels are topped off in the axles and t-case.
  6. 87-90 will share the most parts (including wire harness and sensors), but all years could contribute something depending on what you have and what you're looking for. what engine and trans type do you have now?
  7. copper plugs and middle-of-the-road wires. :thumbsup: can't go wrong.
  8. same here. I really like my leafs. :yes: well-used 2wd packs with an extra main leaf thrown in. and that's back when my shocks were limiting my travel both up and down.
  9. neat :D
  10. I see a cage in that cab
  11. hang on to them :D
  12. I guess that could be a bar. we need more pics and history!! :D
  13. I'm curious about the history behind it. It's certainly not an Archer's bros truck. and I don't see a rollcage in it. It's sooooo hard to get details about MJ history. :(
  14. :rotf:
  15. 1990 dealer brochure doesn't list a laredo.
  16. you know you do. :D http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AUS%3A1123
  17. even at 3" you might need lower control arms, sway bar links, brake lines, shocks and trac bar to avoid problems. 31s can work on a stock height 4x4 MJ if you stick with Jeep rims (MJ/XJ/TJ/YJ/KJ) so if you're looking for a cheap lift, longer shackles (chevy drop shackles) and pucks up front can be your best bet. If you want a 5" lift, save your cash and do it right the first time, don't make it a plan to bandaid a shorter lift kit. :thumbsup:
  18. only if you had 4.10+ gears. the higher ratios (lower numbers) have enough clearance to get the crossbolt out. :thumbsup:
  19. all of the above. 5"+ needs lots of parts. track bar, control arms (or drop brackets), brake lines, sway bar drop (or longer links preferably), etc.
  20. Cory what shocks are you running? where are they mounted to the axle? got pics?
  21. :cheers: thanks. quite proud of the old girl. and technically I sorta wrote it myself too. he wanted to hear my truck's story so I gave it to him. then he turned around and got lazy and just changed it to be from a 3rd person pov. :rotf:
  22. nothing wrong with replacing a 2.8/d35/peugeot with another one (though try to upgrade if you can). just don't spend money repairing one. :thumbsup:
  23. I mean, why are you guys needing to remove the valve covers? I'm guessing leaky gaskets?
  24. what is prompting all these removals? :dunno:
  25. you are right to fear it. one of the few things I would pay a pro to do. and it ain't cheap. :( but maybe you just munched the spider gears. those are pretty easy to replace. :thumbsup:
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