Pete M

I've been known to take a pic or 2 :D

new one by me. :hmm: but then things with an extra 'i' in front of them always seem to confound me

don't buy from around the rust belt. buy from out west or down south and then never let it touch winter. you'll have a truck for life :thumbsup:

welcome to the addiction! :waving:

welcome to the club! :waving:

that was my first thought too.

be patient. inspiration will hit soon enough. :D

:rotf: on to the rubicon!

I think there are a couple writeups on boosters in the DIY forum. link is in my sig.

Some guys have swapped in the double booster and everything was fine. others have paired it with an XJ prop valve to pare down the rear power. still others have gone with an adjustible inline prop valve for the rear to dial it to perfection.

a relay kit is like 10 bucks on ebay. :thumbsup: I would give them a full 12 volts first and then decide if I still need an upgrade.

It'd be nice to have a link we can show people so they can understand exactly that. :thumbsup:

to those who have done headlight upgrades, have you done a DIY thread about it yet?

and while you're in there cleaning stuff up, now's a great time to install a headlight relay kit. :thumbsup:

same principles. just skip the parts related to the manual trans. I believe there is a writeup in the DIY forum that cover using later model transmissions (the electronics changed over the years). http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/

manual or auto? the pilot bearing isn't 4wd specific, that will change (or not) depending on what trans you put in. :thumbsup: not sure what you mean by the "4wd engine harness" but I'm pretty sure you're referring to the vacuum harness that runs off the t-case. and as he said, the brakes must match the new axle. 2wds are different and there have been changes on the 4wd ones over the years. now is the time for gearing upgrades. better gears were available in 2.5L rigs and (unless you have the dana 44 rear) you'll want to upgrade your dana 35 too. now is also the time to consider the front U-joints too, as the later years of XJ (also the early 90s with ABS) has bigger ones. these axle shafts are swappable into early axles if you find an early one with better gears. a donor rig can help with a straight swap, but no XJ came with all the goodies. for example, even later 4.0 XJs had 3.55 gears at best.

a sure fire way to cure fogged headlights is new aftermarket housings (which will be made frm a different plastic). :thumbsup:

who needs a clutch pedal? turn off the engine, put it in first, then crank the engine and be prepared for it to catch and start and away you go! :D you'll figure out how to change gear without the clutch pretty fast. just gotta match the engine speed. slowing down is harder, but you can always pop it out of gear and coast to a stop, then turn off the engine and repeat the process. :thumbsup:

soooooo much old school goodness right there :drool:

nice! :D

yup, my dream powerplant right there. :yes: very nice! :bowdown:

cool. found an NOS gascap but it has a tether so it must be for a later Jeep and just also works with the MJ. thanks guys :D

does your gas cap have a tether? or just the handy holder in the door?

that's part of the problem. the steel rims will pull the tires in more than the aluminum ones. :(

aluminum or steel rims?