Pete M

you should add some details to your signature

it says "estate sale". did we lose someone?

the Durango usually gets 23-24 on the highway. the 4cylinder deactivation thingie is pretty awesome.

progressive/dual rate springs are better at everything should soak up the bumps on the road like a champ

sounds like an awesome idea. just make sure it's the correct lift height. I can't remember if TJ lift coils give more or less than XJ/MJ lift coils

um, apparently I could put the spare tire there...

It's been so long I don't remember what font I used on the original website decals. I'll try to look into it later.

I think there's a link to the testing procedure in the link in my sig.

yeah, that's not a normal occurrence...

damnnnnnn!

I reeeeeeallllyy like our little CRD Liberty. I like the noises it makes, the power it makes, the mpgs it makes. puts a real smile on my face every time I get into it. Having said that, my CRD has very little in common with the newer diesels and if I was looking at a grand cherokee, the Hemi is what I would get. we have the Hemi in the Durango and I agree with Bo's comments on it. it is a sweet power plant.

no need. just pull off the wires and connect them together.

check if it's even connected. it's reeeeeal easy to knock off one of the wires (it was a halfass fix for complaints about a loud fuel pump) if the wires are on and corrosion-free, then check for cracks or other damage.

someone remind me if renix engines have a camshaft sensor. I was talking to a mechanic a while back who swore that most long crank times for old Jeeps was due to a failing camshaft sensor.

check the fuel pump resistor (3" whitish ceramic block with 2 wires coming out of it on the drivers side of the engine bay). power is routed straight to the pump during cranking and then diverted to run through the resistor a second later to lower the voltage at the pump and quiet it down a tad.

I believe there's a cluster swap DIY in the link in my sig.

my newest thought was to replace the glass with a sheet of metal and then cut a rectangle hole in it for the door, rather than a weird trapezoid that covers the whole hole. but a lot depends on if I custom make everything or buy some prefabbed door assemblies from something.

visibility is a concern. I'll definitely "look" into it before removing the glass. I'll be back in michigan in a few weeks and will run the idea by him. a 2door would give him easier access (he's had some major spine surgury) but a 4door allows access to the back area. (rear seats are gone either way)

a minute? how long exactly? is it closer to a few seconds or does it run steady for a minute?

welcome to the club! what all do you plan to do with the truck?

we arrive on friday, though I'm not entirely certain when. saturday/sunday would probably work better anyway.

had an idea for my uncle's hypothetical cherokee build of removing the rear windows and building some doors for that space instead. It would be a hunting rig with a big swing-out rear tire carrier and I figured that would make it a pain in the butt to retrieve every little thing. so what about putting in doors like on the sides of some truck toppers? then he could grab smaller things quite easily. side benefit that the glass can't break if it's not there. thoughts? eventually my searches found someone that did it to the back window of a 4door.

in the link in my sig there is a bolt/nut thread (probably down in "other").