Pete M

any vacuum leak in the engine bay will cause what you're experiencing. check all the hoses.

the emblem is easy to damage and the command tracs are hard to find so go slow and easy.

just don't bleed it when the engine is hot.

I would remove the sensor during filing so that air (and eventually some fluid) can easily escape. later on it'll be pressurized by the running engine and so you only need a small hole for any trapped air to escape. I always fill through one of the hoses. the pressure bottle just needs to be kept at the proper level.

nice! thanks!

and it has the narrowed neck on it?

before I go inventing the wheel, I was wondering if anyone has found them. or at least anything that will work close enough.

nothing wrong with overengineering things.

inch measurements for tires vary WILDLY which is why some tires fit and others don't. any 30 will fit, some 31s will fit, and a couple guys have fit 32s or 33s underneath. and this assumes that all MJs have the same space available.

should be in your truck's entry in the Registry.

yup. especially don't bleed from the sensor with a hot engine.

you're right, I couldn't find a video that covered the whole thing. lemme see if I can remember all the steps. -start nose up and remove all the things in your way -loosen temp sensor so you know it's not stuck -remove t-stat housing and catch fluid -clean mating surfaces -drill little hole in t-stat if it doesn't already have one -install t-stat using a tiny drop of gasket maker at 12oclock to hold it in place -install housing using gasket (I prefer using a gasket with no sealant because a dry gasket doesn't care about a coolant dribble and it makes the job easier next year after the t-stat fails, lol) -remove temp sensor -pull rad hose and fill until fluid comes out temp sensor hole -put everything back together -fire up engine and check for leaks -loosen temp sensor to remove any bubbles -tighten back up and let truck warm up -check for leaks and overheating -keep an eye on the overflow bottle level and add as necessary

substitute in some naan bread for your next sandwich. today I ate the best tuna fish sandwich I've ever had.

be exceedingly careful when disconnecting the speedometer cable. it's a serious pain (and all-to-easy to pull the cluster out too far and break things). I recommend looking at a picture of one to get an idea of what you're feeling for to release it.

any decent cube relay is plenty to start and run a factory style fan.

my only big grip about modern chargers is that if your battery is seriously dead, it might not recognize it as a battery and turn on. safety I guess. I've found I can cheat the system with mine by making it run through a bunch of "engine start" cycles until it's high enough to see the battery.

not much coolant will come out if you're just doing the t-stat. grab a jug of 50/50 youtube should have a bunch of videos on it.

are you wanting to do other things too? (such as a flush/fill or replace the water pump) or just replace the t-stat?

on ebay. 1988 Jeep Comanche Pickup Blue RWD Automatic https://www.ebay.com/itm/226614895630

oooo... black button, tan for the rest, and a black leather wrap would be sweet!

you don't necessarily need a great condition wheel. I wrapped mine with a wheel leather kit back in the late 90s. heck, you could wrap the stock 2-spock for something truly unique.

in my batch of nos door panels I've got 2 maroon base vinyls that differ only in the line patterns on them.

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