Pete M

yeah, our software isn't the best. though I see his last visit was a month ago. hope he's ok.

I'd buy a super clean truck for 1500 even if I KNEW the engine was blown.

3 spoke. having a functioning horn is way down the list of important things, but tomorrow I'd like to at least confirm that there is a horn and that it's plugged in. (I owned my first MJ for years with no horn before discovering the wire was dangling next to it )

someone has definitely been inside this column before. wires were mis-routed, pieces are missing, screw heads are stripped. good times all around. but it's back together and complete. too bad the horn still doesn't work. I'll look into that later.

lol, apparently I'm blind. the return cam piece is not broken, it's literally missing.

tore it all apart, found a missing flat spring, replaced said spring, reassembled everything, no change.

success! I've dug into my spare column and found some intact springs to use. now I just gotta replicate the whole process inside the truck (plus steering wheel removal). at least it's a cool cloudy day.

both. got out my spare column to experiment with (the column is collapsed which to me means it's for parts anyway) and am having a heck of a time with the little snap ring.

found a good thread with both Pete and Don in it

any thoughts before I start digging?

excellent. after noticing frost on the return line I realized I had the blower set on low.

engine temp on the REM (still have idiot lights) is around 190. maaaaaaaannnnn, I sure hope it's not leaking. got it back from the shop just yesterday after they made it all worky-work. the air is wicked cold. (still need to diagnose why turning the setting to MAX makes the air switch to feet-only when bi-level functions normal)

isn't the efan supposed to just come on and stay on with the AC? this truck is cycling with the compressor.

REM. renix has pretty much all the same basic components as later years of XJ, and a lot of the same issues now that they are all quite old. you just need to test things with a multimeter (or an REM) rather than more typical modern methods. what specific issue are you tackling?

can't say I can think of any turnkey packages available, but there are a bunch of v8 swaps in the Epic Tech forum you can peruse for ideas. https://comancheclub.com/forum/41-mj-hardcore-tech-epic-journeys-to-greatness/

yup, you can do that too.

the corner of your tire that rubs will be sticking an inch further into those arms at full turn.

the dash light is less important than it is on modern 4x4s since we still have an old-school lever by our knee to indicate what's happening.

yup, an unbalanced shaft can ruin the pinion seal and bearings.

wear-n-tear and mpgs were the original reasons Jeep put it in. then after a few years they removed it because it didn't help either thing plus added necessary cost and complexity. the only real-world downside is that if your front driveshaft is worn out, it'll cause a vibration. but honestly, if it's worn out it should be addressed anyways. all XJs after the really early 90s, all ZJs, and all TJs were CAD free. plus IFS Jeeps like my liberty.

stock rims with no spacers can see 31"x10.5" tires rubbing on the control arms at full turn. add aftermarket arms (usually round) and 33"x10.5" and it probably won't be that bad? but still possible. the steering stops can be adjusted if necessary.

I'm known for doing just that. you can try using a harbor freight car dolly and putting it under that corner.

oooo, that's a bit far for me to offer up my spare whole 2wd axle.

or for free you can lock it permanently and it'll be like any XJ after the early 90s when Jeep did away with the silly CAD thing.

where are you located?