Pete M

Maybe. :dunno: I hear that this particular Diesel is going to be discontinued soon in the Libby due to problems with new emissions regs. Not sure what will replace it.

The best tire deals are used tires. :D If all goes well 'm looking at getting my hands on some 31" MTRs fairly soon.

I got 22 mpg with a Diesel Liberty flat towing my MJ. And PLENTY of power available when accelerating from a stop. I love that engine!

I have an external slave bellhousing I'm hoping to swap in and make work. No idea if the parts that came with it work though. :roll:

My 4.0L overheated on the dunes a few years ago and pegged the guage over as far as it goes. Still ran good enough to take me to Moab and back last year. :D

Except that I don't own a trailer or have access to a vehicle that can pull an MJ on a trailer. Technically the '90 runs and drives, just the clutch line is blown. I can get it running by putting it in first and cranking until it leaps to life. :D

The word is: nuthin'. Well, almost nothing. The hornets are dead, the truck is *near* the garage, but the heat/humidity has made progress slow. Very very slow. Today I hope to clear out the garage and start ripping out the interior. The real bummer is that this weekend is supposed to be nice, but we were planning a trip down to Georgia to visit my sister. What a dilema! :cry:

A few new smilies for y'all. :wrench: :grrrr: :dunce: :rant:

Power is a whole 'nuther issue for me. I hope to cure that with a stroker. :D

Swapping the buckets left to right helps center them by an inch or so. Yup, the wedges lean the buckets back by 12-15 degrees so the coils don't bow forward.

Oh, and I swaped the buckets left to right also.

I just used the stock Ford shock mounts. They lined up perfectly. Theoretically, you should be able to move the pads directly below the Jeep coils, but be careful how you do it so you can get the stuff back apart if needed. What were you going to do about the steering? The wedges are cut from 1x4 steel stock. A 3inch section is cut then turned upright and the cut diagonally with a saw. I had the shop do it for me. Cost me like $20 for the whole deal. I drilled my bolt holes through and trimmed the upper wedge to fit inside the coil. What sort of shot were you needing of the coil buckets? From what direction? Oh, and I have no need for an antisway bar, if you were trying to work that in somewhere. the ford suspension does a fine job of controling everything on such a small rig.

I needed the guts to put the 'L' key back on (dog stepped on my keyboard. Yes, that's what I said). I've also removed the "insert" key and the "up arrow" to eliminate accidental taps of those keys. :D

:needpics: No matter how much I said Dakota rear lights were different than MJ lights, it wasn't until I took pics of both side by side that XJ owners stopped arguing the point. :nuts:

:brows:

87-90 trucks are essentially the same. 91-92 are a whole nuther animal since they changed to the Chrysler electronics.

Whoa dude! You might want to locate the CAPS Lock button and tap it. Typing in ALL CAPS makes it rather annoying to try to read. :shake: :fool:

I carry a Jeep tierod in the back. That's how prepared I am. :D

I need time (wanna do my classwork?), energy (sometimes I really hate being me), money (if we're talking about the 88) and a garage that doesn't have a black roof. Dang it's hot outside. :headpop: It's supposed to get cooler later this week so we'll see how it goes. At least I've killed all the hornets that took up residence in the truck.

It a brand new vehicle, yes it should thoretically follow the frame. But in an old rusty vehicle, it can go all over trying to find the path of least resistance. I know guys that have welded to their 4x4s and fried the computer or even caught a ground wire on fire. It doesn't take much to overload a tiny computer circuit. Think of a bolt of lightning. Most of it will follow a single path, but there are a lot of little branches that go off on their own. I always go with better safe than sorry.

Some of it was space concerns, some of it was ease of building, but mostly it was the fact that I didn't have the means to fab up that kind of stuff. Plus I have a 78 axle so the cast steel is everywhere. It was simple to get a local steek shop to cut a piece of steel diagonally, then I trimmed the small one one to fit inside the coil cup and drilled holes for the longer bolts. Now that it's all said and done, I've very very happy with it all. :D (except for the track bar, it still shifts around a bit and makes banging noises when offroading)

My only update is that I'm no closer to having a functional MJ. :cry:

I haven't had any real problems with the routine stuff (not on the trails at least). Failed relays, failed new water pumps, stuff like that can get really annoying cause there's not much you can do about it ahead of time. :headpop: Plus, I carry some stuff that other Jeeps can use too. Ya never know the condition of strangers' Jeeps.

Yes and no. Not everyplace or everything that's grounded on a 20 year old truck can handle the juice from a welder. And electricity has a tendency to"wander" sometimes. It doesn't necessarily follow a single path (especially if the main path is rusty).

Hmmm :hmm: , my theory was exactly the opposite. I'm thinking that the extra weight I have forces the suspension to follow the terrain rather than lift a tire.