Pete M

I still haven't found a patch that does that on the phpBB software. But if someone ever writes one, you can be sure we'll get our hands on it. :D

Simple? You'd think so, but... :hateputers: In other words, I can't find a Chat config anywhere. :(

Anything that isn't from an MJ will require welding perches on. If you want to keep the Jeep front axle, than your options are quite limited. That's why the 8.8 is as cool as it is. Stronger than a 44, disks, 4.10s or 3.55s, almost a perfect width, available posi and Explorers are as common as anything in the junkyards. Even the older drum braked models are just as strong as the newer ones and have much better brakes than the Dana 35. Here's some good reading on the subject: http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/88swap.html http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html http://www.jeepsonly.com/cgi-bin/links/jump.cgi?ID=2022 And there's nothing great about the Grand's Dana 35 except that it has disk brakes. It's just as weak as your Dana 35.

Dan, are the cookies on your computer set right?

The waggy wouldn't match the Explorer 8.8 so he'd have to swap that too. In some years the waggy was pass side dif, others it was drivers. Stay away from the CAD ones.

Even when they do work, they're still crappy. Many of us have added a dome light of some kind in the middle of the cab. :D

:rotf: :rotfl2:

I've heard of a heavy right foot, but a heavy left? :teehee: Seriously though, I vaguely remember hearing about a break like that before. Don't remember when though. :hmm:

Specifically as it relates to leaf springs that are mounted on top of the axle. SUA means the leafs are mounted to the underside of the axle. SOA: SUA:

If that part number is on the rubber bladder, then I'm betting that's the part number for the rubber bladder. No MJ ever came with ABS (to the best of my knowledge). The pedal going to the floor is not necessarily a bad master cylinder. It can also be air trapped in the lines or a crack in a line.

I'm out of the long ones that go on the outside of the window, but now that I'm doing all the prep work on the decals, I should be able to get whatever we need for pretty cheap. Just lemme know what ya want. :D

If you have to use the MJ one, this is a pic of mine: The lower port is plugged.

Got yer magnets to hand out? :brows:

Haha beat ya to it. :thumbsup:

If you're redoing lines, I would get a prop valve from an XJ to replace the MJ combo valve. Then simply route a single line from the XJ output to the rear axle. You know, like normal vehicles have.

Good ol' Jeep. Always necessitating a clause or two. :D

I thought it was AX-5s that had the short and long issue. I don't remember hearing that about the AX-15. :hmm:

As hunter said, yes and no. An AX-15 from a TJ/YJ will bolt to the engine, but there are some differences in the back half of the transmission. I have a TJ trans in mine and had to create the transfercase shifter bracket side that bolts to the trans. Plus the tranny mount is different and the TJ/YJ trans will clock or rotate the t-case up a bit. It mean better ground clearance, but can interfere with the floor of the truck depending on how you work out the tranny mount and xcrossmember. Then there's the issue with amost all AX-15s, spline count. Early AX-15s may have the 21 spline shaft to match your t-case, but for sure 91+ will have a 23 spline. 94.5+ will have the external slave. I simply joined my current master line to the new slave line using a $2 compression fitting from the hardware store. Oh, and the Peugeot does NOT share bellhousing with the AX-15, so you'll need to get that with the trans. Some good info here if you haven't read it already: http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html

I promise you'll never need a drop pitman arm. An AAL has more curve than the stock packs and forces the leaf pack to arch upward. An extra main leaf will have the same arch as the leaf pack and merely adds carrying capacity, which in turn will probably lift about an inch. Personally, I would go with just the ZJ coils and 4wd leafpacks (with the extra main leaf). You'll gain a couple inches over your current height and be able to fit 31s. Be aware that lifting can bring about the death wobble. Have funds available.

Adding lift is messing with the front geometry. Do you mean you don't want to fix the front geometry that you'll be screwing up with the lift? :hmm:

As much as we may want to think it was the same, it is Ford we're talking about here. The manufacturer who changes stuff just for the hell of it. After all, the Rangers came with wussier axles, and they're trucks! Only one way to know for sure.

:needpics:

Swap in some axle shafts with 297s, truss the Dana 30, keep it open diff and don't be too abusive. Maybe some alloy axleshafts with CTMs if you can afford it. There really isn't any front axle with a 5-on4.5" bolt pattern that's better than the Dana 30 (unless you buy a complete aftermarket axle). The 8.8 is out of an Explorer, yes? http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

:bowdown: How's the cooling?

The majority of the recent requests went out last week. I've got a couple stragglers left that will go out today after I prep some more 12" decals and acquire some more shipping tube.