Pete M

That light is on a timer. It's not actually connected to the engine or computer at all. There's a small plastic box under the dash on the drivers side with little gears in it. Yank it out. The older MJs don't have a way of telling you that the o2 sensor is bad.

Be sure to use a "throttle body cleaner" on the throttle body or one that says it's safe for Throttle bodies. Many "carb cleaners" aren't O2 sensor save.

Yup, almost all MJs had the vac disco. To my knowledge, only the 86 models with the all-wheel-drive option had the non-disco. Apparently the vac disco survived into '93 on Cherokees. '93 is the last year in car-part.com that give the choice of vac and non-vac. '94 the choice disappears and I assume the vac disco was gone for good. But, if you search the nation's junkyards for a vac axle, the vast majority of the results that turn up are '90 and '91. '92-93 become increasingly rare so I imagine that Jeep was in the process of dropping it.

That's actually fairly common for our engines. Typically it's a sign of an aging CPS, but not always. Try turning the key to "run", wait a few seconds, then crank it.

Just to clarify, I'm talking about removing the rubber air duct going from the filter to the throttle body. Use the PB blaster and be patient with it. It'll come off eventually. :D

I had that problem in my 90 and it turned out that the throttle cable wasn't returning and that left the throttle plate open a bit. I'd recommend pulling off the filter box and tube so you can visually check that the throttle body plate is indeed closed at idle. 8)

Progress has been made, albeit small. I've finally wrestled the perches off the axle (new cutting blades for the circ saw and air grinder did the trick). And while I was at Lowes I looked through the hardware isle and wha-da-ya-know, I found some small cylindrical spacers that looked perfect for the lug-to-disk gap. Turned out I was right and tomorrow I'll cut them to size. :D Next up is building my new leaf packs and finding someone local to weld on the perches onto the axle. Once those two items are accomplished, I'll be pulling the truck into the garage to start swapping.

I imagine that would work too. I just put a rag on the valve and push it with a screwdriver. A small amount of gas squirts out and you're done.

And their air hammer works darn good too. I think I paid $4 for it on sale. :D In fact, I'm about to go use it now to help get those stinkin' perches off that 9".

The 4.0L/suto rear driveshaft is about 1 inch shorter than the manual (due to the auto trans being 1 inch longer than the manual trans). I put a np-242 into my 90 and the D-shaft is just a bit too long so I picked up an auto shaft to try. Haven't gotten around to it yet, but then I don't drive the truck so it's further down on the to-do list. :roll:

You can still lift it if you'd like. 2wd or 4wd, the lift components are the same. :D

I guess I got lucky with my HF balljoint press. I've abused the heck out of it and it's still going strong. :dunno: Of course, I bought it several years ago. Maybe it's the newer shipments that suck.

Yup. 4 of them to be precise.

Yes. I believe that the 12 bolt rear is the AMC 20 (at least when it comes to finding a rear end for an 86 MJ on car-part.com) Happy now? :cheers:

The TJ and YJ transmissions are essentially the same. It is generally not worth it to make a 2wd trans into a 4wd. Mostly because buying the parts costs too much. In your particular case, if you used the parts from the YJ trans to convert your MJ trans, the end result would still be a YJ trans. See, the back end of the transmission housing is what clocks the t-case up. The holes are in a different position than XJ/MJ transmissions. I would use the YJ trans and rebuild it if necessary. Just be aware that there are slight differences. I love the extra bit of ground clearance. I was able to make a flat skid plate to protect the trans. :D 99 TJ on top, 86 MJ on the bottom. TJ trans/t-case in my truck. I have a custom trans crossmember and used the TJ trans mount, so yours may not be quite a close to the floor. Or it might be closer. I don't know. :dunno: I do know that the problems are overcome-able and the ground clearance is nice. :D I believe (it's been awhile) that I nipped off a bit of the aluminum tabs sticking out of the t-case where it got close to the floor.

94 is iffy on the external slave. If I remember right, the transition was something around midyear 94 for the XJ, not sure if the YJ follows suit. The YJ trans is a bit different than the XJ trans. The YJ trans clocks (rotates) the t-case up a small amount. It results in a tight fit between the t-case and the floorboards (but more ground clearance :brows: ). I have a TJ trans in my 88 and it's close, but I haven't had any contact yet. Unfortunately I had the t-case shifter linkage from an 86 MJ and the 99 TJ on hand during the swap and am not certain specifically which parts I used. I thin it was half and half. :dunno: You could always buy the aftermarket shifter assemblies that eliminate the funky stock linkage. I've read that rebuilding an AX trans is relatively straight forward.

Do you know what engine/transmission was in the donor?

What driveshaft are you using? Custom or stock?

Also, don't forget that you can look for used parts too. I would definitely keep an eye out for 3" LCAs.

Some of their tools are always bad. Some of their tools are usually good. Others are purely hit or miss (like the ball joint presses). Cheap is cheap for a reason unfortunately. :headpop:

The risk is that after putting on that LCA-less lift, the steering will feel loose due to the lack of proper caster. Deathwobble might even rear its ugly head. Also, how does that particular kit raise the back end? The picture shows an XJ kit with the spacer block.

According to my dealership brochures, 225/75/15 were the tallest tire ever available on an MJ. 31s on factory rims will rub on the LCAs. 31s on aftermarket rims will rub on the flares. Anything above 2" and you will want LCAs. And any change in height up front will throw off your alignment and that will need to be addressed. The little things always add up. You could just do a 1.75" spacer lift up front and then either a long XJ AAL (will lift about 1.5-2") or 2" MJ AAL or longer shackle in the rear, lower the front brake line brackets, then get it aligned and call it a day. 3" is the amount of lift where the geometry of the suspension changes and all sorts of bits and pieces need to be addressed. If I remember right, at 2" the stock shocks will work fine on road, but limit your travel offroad.

89 was the transition year between the Peugeot (87-89) and the AX-15 89-up

I leave for georgia right after the badlands and return around the 29th.

Oh I'm interested, but first things first. I'm focused on getting the truck running enough for the Badlands. Assuming everything goes smoothly, I'm up for whatever. :cheers: