Pete M

The front bumper is indeed chrome and in decent shape. The pass fender has a dent in it.

I've run 30s on a 2wd and 31s on a 4wd. It is possible to do sans lift with the right rims. The 31s are indeed tight, but I added the WJ control arms and all's well now. :D

I could talk smack all day long, but it's like being threatened by a 3rd grader. It's hard to take my FF team seriously. :yes:

I wouldn't assume it's not the exhaust until I crawled underneath and shook the exhaust pipe as hard as I could. It could simply have popped out of the mount.

The difference between a 195 tire and a 205 tire is less than the width of your finger. Kind of a moot point for the OP. :D

Sorry it's such a poor shot for your needs, but I only have a couple from back when the 88 was 2wd. Those are 30x9.5" tires on Jeep 15x7 rims.

The Wrangler parts will be in different locations than a comparable 00 XJ. It could be anywhere from a small headache, to a rip-your-hair-out headache to adapt it all. Pretty much everything in your truck is incompatible with a 4.0L.

"Stock" doesn't mean the base model's tires. Stock means the tires that came with your particular truck. MJ tires were anywhere from 195/75 to 225/75 and each truck should have come with the appropriate speedo gear to account for the tires size. And yes, those tires should fit alright (but they will be a bit small).

I don't see "new rear axle with 4.10 gears" anywhere in that list. :hmm: There's a cherokee at Taylor Auto that has the front chrome package. You might want to jump on that. Call me tomorrow if you can't.

4 cylinder engine or 6 cylinder engine?

That seems pretty close to violating rule #2. :no: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1239 :D

Are the U-joints in the front driveshaft in good shape? And about the axlegear ratios, what engine and transmission do you have?

Or you can raid the junkyard for the parts you need. Either way, the lower block should be usable for you. :thumbsup:

Comanches were never offered with 16" rims, so I'd say that build sheet is questionable at best.

What is the specific benefit of the solid front axle? - Thanks -Stronger -fewer parts to break -easier to upgrade -easier to work on -easier to lift -less expensive You missed a couple. The ground clearance under the solid axle doesn't change as the springs compress. In IFS, the center section gets closer to the rocks when the springs are compressed. And then there's the best benefit of all: when offroading, as one tire gets pushed up due to uneven terrain, physics causes the system to actually push down on the other side, increasing traction on the drooping side. On IFS, the two sides are truly independent and when one side goes up, the other side just kinda hangs there with reduced traction. IFS does have some minor advantages, like a bit more static ground clearance (meaning when the truck is just sitting there), or a more car-like ride, or less unsprung weight (comes in handy for highspeed racing). But for regular offroading, I'll take a solid axle any day of the week. :thumbsup:

A shirt & sticker combo would be hard to do as the shirts are coming from me in FLorida and the stickers etc... are with Pete in Michigan. I would imagine that if you worked it out with Pete, he could mail me the stickers and I could pack them with the shirt/shirts for you :idea: Send me your order & shipping information and I will get you a price for shipping and see if it's something you want to do. That shouldn't be a problem on my end. :thumbsup: I can easily ship Taz the stickers. But you'll need to let me know what you want.

I was able to fit 30" tires (a hair bigger then 235s) on my 4x2 MJ years back, but it was a very tight fit. 31s are likely too much.

You guys are taking out the extra spaces on either side of the "@", aren't you? He's trying to be sneaky and thwart any spam bots looking for address.

Sounds to me like an opportunity to upgrade. :brows:

Did you fry the new switch too?

The junkyards. Or in our classifieds forum. :thumbsup: I'm sure someone has some lying around.

A long crank time is typical for renix trucks. As long as it's consistent in its duration and reliable in operation, I tend to ignore it.

Does it sputter and die? Or just shut off like you turned the key?

Some years (I think the later ones) of Wagoneers are drivers drop. 95-01 are the best Explorer axles. They have disk brakes, can be found with 4.10 gears, and match the Jeep Dana 30 front axle in width and rim bolt pattern. Earlier years are pretty much the same, but have drums. As to them being "bolt-in", only Comanche rear axles are truly bolt-in. All other axles will require new perches welded on. And pretty much all rear axles take the same amount of effort to install. It's the front axle that's tricky. Try car-part.com for junkyard searching. :thumbsup:

The first time I ever heard about the procedure it was with the engine cold but running, and the sensor wasn't supposed to fully come out, just enough to bleed air out. I've not had the pleasure of doing it myself so I can't say.