Pete M

Filled up the leaky tire (this was on my '90 shell in GA). :clapping:

Filled up the leaky tire (this was on my '90 shell in GA). :clapping:

Raked leaves, blew leaves, and raked some more leaves. Still not anywhere near done. :( At least I got the gutters done. :D

Raked leaves, blew leaves, and raked some more leaves. Still not anywhere near done. :( At least I got the gutters done. :D

Have some patience. It's only been a couple days. :D Heck, I haven't even heard from Oizarod yet. where is he? :hmm:

I'm not entirely certain of what you're trying to describe. In the engine? Do you have a picture? I'm pretty certain that every bolt you drop anywhere in the truck must be retrieved or it could cause horrible problems. :(

Mine went to the coil area, not the dist. I don't know if there's an attachment point at a Jeep dist.

Factory ratios were generally: 2.5L + 4speed manual = 3.55 2.5L + 5speed manual = 4.10 Please please don't put 35s on a Dana 35 and don't sink any money into regearing it. That axle is simply not worth it. :(

Because finding Gl-3 rated gear oil is next to impossible, GL-5 is deadly to the synchros, and they've decided that 10-W30 is the next best thing to the original requirements. :thumbsup:

And please don't waste that kind of money on a Dana 35. Go find an XJ/MJ Dana 44 or an Explorer 8.8 (which were available with 4.10s) and invest your money into somthing that will last. :D

Looks like getting the internet won't be an every-day thing, so Eagle's in charge of keepin' y'all in line, and Qui Gon-Jinn is in charge of any website technical aspects.

Only that I'm officially in GA. There's no internet at my parents house (looks like the neighbor with the wireless internet shut it off or whatever), so I have to run up the street to my sister's house.

A most curious post occurred not too long ago, from a guy who had horrible blow-by and after replacing the timing chain the blow-by magically fixed itself. That's my next step for my 88 (not til springtime though). :thumbsup:

With a heavy bumper you should have ordered the 180 pound coils (of course, I assume they still sell them). I've got Rusty's 3" 180# coils and they've held up pretty good (aside from the fact that they are as rusty as my Rusty's trackbar mount :shake: )

I haven't a clue what my near future holds. I'll be in GA tomorrow evening though and maybe I'll know more then.

there's always plan B: I'll do it for ya. :thumbsup: Keep learning though. Some day the knowledge will come in handy. :cheers: To reduce I use a program called ACDSee. Does a good job of retaining details as it gets shrunk. I can even just type in 100x150 and it'll shrink tit to those specs. Last time I used Paint for that it was a real pain in the butt. :(

The 231 is capable of taking a cable speedo, you just need to get one from a cable 231 (87-90). Of course, I'm assuming that the 207 one won't fit in there. I've never checked. You might need to swap the plastic gears on it though. Some years had long ones and some short.

I have no firsthand experience with any aftermarket control arms. But I do know you get what you pay for. Get some quality units. Also, I wouldn't get that particular kit. I'd go get a complete kit from a single manufacturer so I know it all works together and if there's ever a problem with a part, they can't blame it on some other part I installed.

Yes, if you convert to a solid axleshaft, you won't need those vcacuum lines any more. MAke sure you cap that last prt where the vacuum originates. And definitely make sure you install the proper seals. Forgot about that. :doh:

It's not especially necessary on an MJ (we have much longer rear driveshafts and so U-joint angles are less severe), but if you can float the money, it's a good upgrade. They tend to be stronger than stock and they seal up the back of the t-case so you can pull the driveshaft without spilling fluid all over the place.

Absolutely. They need to be the correct length for the amount of lift. This will correct the suspension geometry and push the tire forwards, back into the center of the wheel well (arms that are too short will pull the tire back into the rear of the flare).

Hubs are completely different than the CAD. The CAD is the big bulge on the passenger side of the diff. On that side is a 2 piece axle shaft. Inside the CAD is a collar that slides over to hold the 2 pieces together, giving you in a sense, a 1 piece shaft like most other Jeeps.

I thought the 231s behind AX-5s remained 21 spline. :dunno:

I would. It's just easier to match the Ford front with the Dana 60. Plus you'll never ever have to worry about breaking that 60. Be prepared that it's not as light as the 8.8 and moving it around can be rough. Or you can try and find a 77 and earlier Ford truck Dana 44 front end (the ones where the radius arm mounts are welded on, not integral like 78-79) and match that with a 9" rear. They'll still take the punishment and be a bit lighter. Or build up a 78-79 using the radius arms like I did. :D

Personally I wouldn't go past 33s on a plain-jane Dana 30 (with 297s) and wouldn't go past 35s on a bliinged-out Dana 30. No matter what you do to the rest of the axle, you still have the small gearset at its heart. Just go find some 70s era 3/4 ton Ford axles (44 front and 60 rear) and go nuts with them. Invest your money into something worth while. :thumbsup: