Pete M

Usually a resistor pack failure comes from the resistors burning out, leaving the bypass wire as the only route left (the High setting). But corrosion can also play havoc in the connections. I've had both problems. It's NEVER a bad thing to replace the resistor pack is it's corroded. :thumbsup:

Don't forget the locktite. :D

Going SOA with stock springs will give you 6" right off the bat. Add in a long AAL and you'll get 2-3 more. It's the front end that's the tricky (and expensive) part. :thumbsup:

See, that would definitely give the impression of my approval. I want as little association as possible with the members' wheeling and dealings. I'll help out as I can if something goes horribly wrong, but I will bear no responsibility. I already worry about stuff coming back to haunt me, I don't need to encourage it. :D

I gave serious thought to an interior cage, but kept falling back to protecting the A-pillar. That's really all I want. Crunch that on a tree or a flop and it can write off a truck, or at least a truck that needs to function in the winter or other inclement weather. Some people would just slice off the top or dump the doors and go have fun, but I doubt I'm that guy. I like staying dry and warm. :D

I know there are some tricks for bleeding the 4.0, but I don't think they apply to the 2.5. :(

On the surface it sounds like a great idea, but I fear that admin involvement might give the impression of a sort of endorsement. Or at the least it might become an ugly pissing match if someone has a problem with one of them for whatever reason. I'm still asking around for the opinions of admins and mods that have more experience with this sort of things and if I change my mind or find an alternative, I'll post it up. :thumbsup:

Then wait til tomorrow when someone with some direct experience can chime in. :cheers:

Probably. Didn't it come with instructions?

Long AAL or short? Either way, usually it goes where it fits in the pack. So that the leaf ends are properly stepped, shortest to longest. :thumbsup: The thick stock overload leaf is always on the bottom.

Just don't hold your breath. :D

Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that. :thumbsup: Of course, that's probably because I lacked the means to build a complicated mount. Everything I did in that buildup was geared towards simplicity. My crossmembers are both just a U-channel made from 1/4" steel.

I sure hope you're working on some better pics. :no: :D

I've added that to the to-do list for the 88. :D I didn't need A/C anyways, right? :(

This should be my most recent doodling. My plans are to have it as invisible as possible. The front sheetmetal is dispensable in my mind. But I'd like to try and preserve the inner structure. And yes, my truck will be even heavier than it is now. :D

Is it a 4.0 or 2.5?

Check the resistor pack. It's located right next to the passengers feet and looks like a little door held to the ductwork with a little screw or two. Check it for corrosion. :thumbsup:

If I'm understanding you correctly, then no. Something needs to be welded to the axle tube. Rotation will be inevitable otherwise.

I have plans for a cage. But no money for one yet. :( I'd like to protect the A-pillars on my 88. Doesn't take much to completely fubar them. :doh:

The guys at "Extreme 4x4" rolled a buggy of theirs that looked pretty stout and they ended up deflecting the entire upper half of the cage to the side from only a minor roll. :eek: Made a believer out of me. (Not that I didn't already know about gussets and triangulation, I am an engineer after all).

Technically it's a "switch" rather than a sensor, but it definitely could be faulty either way. Or corrosion is screwing with the electrical signal. Might be time to think about upgrading the the full cluster with gauges? :brows:

You'll definitely want to use an adapter plate when joining tube to the sheetmetal frames on an MJ so you can spread out the forces and not just tear the bar from the sheetmetal. These are some of the various designs on my 88. My rollbar is only expected to survive one good roll. It's no rock buggy. :D rollbar front legs. The angled steel is just a crosscut of 3x5 box steel tube I found in the scrap bin. That is welded to a ~4x6 piece of 1/4" plate and that is welded to the frame. Rollbar rear legs. They are not actually welded to the frame, but rather the adapter plate (1/4") is bolted to the rear bumper plate (also 1/4" steel) and through the frame with a 3/4" grade 8 bolt.) And my rocker guards. These actually penetrate through the frame and are welded to both sides. The finished bar with tire carrier.

Off hand I don't know. It's possible that they carry both types.

I'm not sure I'll ever understand the desire to extend the arms. Stock ones are quite long already. :hmm: I don't even run heims, just the factory Ford bayonets with poly bushings (and Ford van brackets on the truck). The biggest restriction to flex I've encountered has been the poly C-bushings. They sucked. I went back to the 30 year old rubber bushings and I can max out my shocks and fenders. The front now compliments the rear flex and the truck is very balanced. :D

I imagine with careful measurements you can keep both the wipers and range of hood movement. :thumbsup: