Pete M

if I remember right, the plastic cap is a very different fitment method.

Id probably do a 2" lift and bumpers for now and drive it. but also immediately start scavenging the junkyards for any parts needed for a full resto. prices for the nice ones aren't going down.

I'd still go with 3.55s. stock ratios suck.

since this has gotten pretty tech-heavy, I'm going to move it. maybe more eyes will see it then.

don't take my word for it. wait for some more opinions to roll in. wouldn't be the first time something escaped my brain. but I installed a late model radiator (has a rad cap) on my 88. that didn't automatically make it an open system. and my rad cap has never popped open.

what size tires are you using under the MJ? just because the factory did it, doesn't mean it's what you want to do.

So there's a new tank... plumbed exactly like the old tank... sure sounds like a closed system to me.

does the tank have any hose coming up into the bottom of it?

anyone know what pressure the 87-90 radiators are rated for?

yes. just over 3 times is 3.07 and just over 4 times is 4.10

I... don't know what it is you're asking? the driveshafts are completely independent of the ratios. the number is the ratio of teeth inside (ring gear vs pinion gear). the front axle and the rear axle ratios must match. the higher the ratio number (which is unfortunately called "lower gears") the better it is for bigger tires (within reason but we're dealing with factory ratios here so bigger = better).

for rear axles and non-cad fronts, you'll want to rotate the axle exactly twice while counting the number of times the pinion rotates. 3 and a half times is 3.55 etc. admittedly this can be challenging on a loose axle in a junkyard because it requires the other side axle to remain stationary.

wait, am I missing something? why is the metal tank full? either it should be roughly half full so the fluid can expand, or it shouldn't exist. that plastic tank is merely a catch for if the cap pops because that's the only way fluid will get to it.

love that commercial

make sure it's insured for a proper amount. otherwise a simple fender bender will total it out. doors are surprisingly hard to sell. but I guess you're already up north so maybe it's easier? I imagine they are like tailgates. people shopping for one tend to be looking for perfection. a good truck is still worth more than the sum of its parts unless you're super patient and like to box things up for shipping. some of the MJ specific stuff might sell fast, then you're left with the rest and it becomes practically unsell-able.

at first my brain was like, why is the underside of the hood so dirty? but then I realized it was a reflection of the engine bay and that the underside of this hood is shinier than anything on any of my trucks.

your full build sheet is actually much longer, but a lot of info was lost before it got into chrysler's computers back in the day. if you check out a later year MJ, you'll see what I mean.

I think he's at 30+ by now. it's a free market and he usually buys them for under 150, but then most of them are very rusty or beat up. he doesn't sell them (wants to decorate the wall of his workshop or some such thing), but he does offer up trades: 2 of your beat up tailgates for one nice one of his. less-than perfect tailgates rarely have a market. I mean, most all of us already have a tailgate and a truck only needs the one. when someone is looking for one, it's usually because they are making a very nice truck and don't want to bother fixing up the one they have. (or they are looking for one that's "less bent"and are completely ignorant of the current market and thus will be in for some sticker shock).

it's a free market and people can ask any price they want and it's free to ask any price you want on ebay so there's no cost to asking for the moon. it only counts as the value of the piece if someone else agrees and it sells. those are likely to be for sale for quite some time.

fixed

prices for the nice trucks aren't going to go down, that's for sure.

it's been done in actual race MJ/XJs. fitting that rollcage kinda sucks with a dash in the way. seems like a lot of work though. I did the lazy man's version by removing the glovebox door and making it a shelf.

the background is a little darker and it has a rollbar now. fancy! I still need to figure out how many I can put in an envelope and still use a stamp, but they are essentially ready for anyone that wants some. send me a message with an address and I'll get them in the mail.

if you so desire, you can swap a radiator with a cap into the older trucks without changing anything else. you will still need to bleed the system. best way is actually through that same sensor hole after pointing the truck downhill (so the back of the block is the highest point). just be sure to do it when the engine is cold this time.

that is sun damage