Pete M

Does it still drive ok? Does it feel different? Have you tried filling the tank up to see if it's the gauge or sender that's faulty?

You're welcome. :cheers:

Longer shackles are only good for an inch or so before they become a detriment. You can get yourself a 3" full-length AAL for the rear. Just make sure it's for an MJ, not an XJ. They have very different arches in their leaf packs and so AALs work differently in them. Don't forget about a longer rear brake line (a '95 Dakota line works great).

So you want to lift the front 3.5" and would like to know what other parts you'll need? -Shocks -brake lines (stock YJ lines will work) -track bar -lower control arms -maybe uppers depending on how the caster sits, but I think they'll be ok

Weren't they using the Iron Duke 4banger at one point in time?

Rustys has a history of poor design, broken parts, and bad customer service. Don't think that the higher end suspensions are only for rockcrawling. The better setups are better in all situations, including on the road. Your money goes towards a better quality part (and getting all the right parts) and not just better performance on the trail. It's probably not wise to compare the price to what you paid for the truck. It's a cost/benefit analysis all unto itself. My last MJ cost me $75. :yes: Just wait til you look into upgrading the gear ratios to accommodate the bigger tires. :D Wheeling can be expensive no matter what you start with. If you want cheaper, try to get some parts used. Just make sure you get all of the parts needed to do it right. We're just here to try and steer you from the regrets and wasted money many of us have experienced. :thumbsup:

I,m lame at pics thing but here goes :doh: Well, you need to have after, but even then it's the wrong link. Check this thread for pic posting directions. :thumbsup: www.explorerforum.com

Also check out: therangerstation.com and explorerforum.com

Anyone else need any cards?

Look for an 8-bolt Dana 44 from a solid axle Ford with leaf springs (and get the matching Dana 60 from the rear of that truck). That'll likely be the easiest to weld on the Dana 30's coil perches and such. Plus it'll be high pinion and have a drivers side diff. And you can just plug the vacuum line coming from the t-case (and ultimately the engine). The t-case will function like normal regardless of the vacuum. There's a switch on the t-case that sends vacuum to the front axle when you pull the handle. Everything inside the t-case is purely mechanical. :thumbsup: And as to leaf springs, going SOA with your current leafs (assuming they are good, will give 5-6" of lift).

So what exactly is it about the VBulletin that makes it so awesome? :dunno: I admit the old PHPBB was a real pain in the wazoo, but that was mostly because I didn't know how to keep up with the updates. Once I farmed that out and got everything up to date (and learned some of the system) I like it.

You're going to scrap a truck over a taillight? :eek:

Didn't seem very complete to me (no lower control arms). :dunno:

What rear axle do you have?

I would not go higher than 2" without longer lower control arms.

Be prepared to need an alignment after wards.

Yay! radius arms! :D If you want any flex in the front axle, I suggest avoiding the poly C-bushings. I've been quite happy with my stock Ford rubber ones. :thumbsup:

Go grab both the front and the rear axles. They should have much better gearing than your current one. :D

Breaking a shaft is just one of the many talents of a dana 35. :D Mine started spitting out ring gear teeth one day on the drive to work.

I used to collect Mt Dew cans in the bed using the back window method. :D

Oh I've never pay to regear axles. I buy axles with the new gear ratio already in them. I "regeared" my 88 to 4.10s (with Ford axles) for negative money (since I parted out the 78 Bronco for way more than I paid). I bought a pair of 4.88 geared ford axles for it (not yet installed) for about $600. I regeared the 90 to 3.55 for about $300 (99Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear). It's all about patience and hunting ion the right spots for a good deal. I can spend hundreds on an exhaust/intake and my truck will still suck with 31s on 3.07s. It's sometimes a hard pill to swallow (depending on the circumstances), but gearing is still the proper cure for big tires. :thumbsup:

What are your lift goals in all this? No easy way to do it. Unless you use a TJ rubicon front 44, but those are only half-44 anyway and low-pinion too. What are your end goals for this truck? How much lift? How big of tire? What kind of wheeling would you be doing? The "vacuum thing" is called the CAD (central axle disconnect) and it's easy to pop off the cover and keep the little fork inside shifted all the time. Search for "CAD" and you'll find some of the options. This would make your truck like any Jeep after '95 and your 4wd would still function completely like normal (and would be more reliable). :thumbsup:

I laugh when TJ owners complain about the lack of space in their Jeep. :teehee:

I appreciate all the support guys, :thumbsup: but I promised myself years ago when setting up the forums that I wouldn't incur any costs unless I could cover everything myself (and if donations came in, so be it). I didn't want to have to rely on outside help, just in case it didn't happen. Admittedly we are a lot bigger now though so maybe I should rethink some of that. Plus I just always assumed that employment (something that makes use of my engineering degree, not talking about flipping burgers) was just around the corner. :hmm: stupid Michigan. Plus I have to take into consideration that I'd have a whole new system to learn. :ack: :hateputers:

Found them on Novak's site Gear ratios for the AX15 are: 3.83, 2.33, 1.44, 1.00, 0.79 Gear ratios for the BA10/5 are: 3.39, 2.33, 1.44, 1.00, 0.79