Pete M

:waving: Welcome to the insanity. :cheers:

gonna be tight. reeeeeal tight. So tight as to probably not be worth all the work. :( There will be so much compromising that you might end up hating to drive it. I'd suggest trading the 33s to someone with 31s.

Cinder blocks aren't all that strong on their sides. flip them upright and use a piece of wood on the top to spread out the load. :thumbsup: Although it seems your life would be worth $30 in jackstands. :dunno: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38847

now that's a happy MJ. :D

I hate not having money. :( http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/cto/1516526498.html

so.... you want to trim all your fender away so you can make use of some tires? Are the fenders particularly rotted? 33x10s or 33x12s?

So the shifter handle won't pull back to 4wd? any rust under the truck in that area? Also, welcome to the club! :waving:

tell him that it's been altered and that destroys the value. offer him $2k. :D

lifted jeep nice - $4500 (jackson) http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/1508684410.html

most of the ones I've seen have 2 pairs of holes so you can tweak it. search for "chevy shackles" in Tech and you should be able to find the recent topics. :thumbsup:

yup. full size truck usually have a bigger bolt pattern (6-on-5.5, 5-on-5.5 etc). Essentially, if you're stepping up to fullsize truck axles, your bolt pattern will become whatever that particular truck used.

I usually put 30-40 in mine. no need to get all crazy with it just to wash off mud. but then I've never cleaned out a heater core with it.

Chevy drop shackles are all over ebay. They give a small height bump. A couple of our members are using the 88-06 variety.

Colorado may have trails galore, but we might have to import some air. :D At that elevation, there just isn't much there.

I have one too and take it with me on trail runs. Ya never know when it'll come in handy to clean out a tire bead or brake drum. :D

I used WD-40 on the cables. Generally it seems that it's not the cable freezing in the tube, but the hinge mechanism gumming up. I would thoroughly clean it up and use a thicker lube like lithium grease on it.

I fear turning this into a tech discussion, but what's your caster set to?

I reset your password and used "comanche". try that and see if it works. :thumbsup:

they should be ok on a 2wd. problems only arise when the suspension is at full droop. sweet. I only need a pair at the moment, but if you both send some, I'll be sure to replace the ones on the 86 too. :D

I know there's a gap in the intake gasket on the drivers (?) side that is there to let heat escape from below. It wasn't a round hole though on the block I saw though.

do metrics have only fine and coarse? if so, they are fine. get the strongest ones you can find. Even if that means the dealership.

Compression numbers and oil pressure are about all I worry about in the block itself. If those are good, I keep it and work with the peripherals. If all the rockers are popping up and down without undue noise, then I consider the head to be good. These old engines are practically invincible. It's the 20 year old sensors, timing chain, etc that I focus on. You'd be amazed how many headaches a simple vacuum leak or bad ground can cause. Let's start with the basics. What seems to be the trouble with the truck?

from a wrangler? I guess in theory it will bolt up, but I don't think that trans has a spot for the CPS. also it's non-overdrive.

it's just like your radiator, there comes a time where it simply can't do it's job anymore. :(

if it's not frozen solid outside under the snow, you can flush out the core with a garden hose. Be sure to flush both ways.