Pete M

I've seen guys have all sorts of headaches from just a 3" lift. Please understand that you are in the minority if you jacked it up 5" on stock arms and everything worked fine. By the way, what was your caster at? It's not a kit, it's a half-kit. they are the ONLY ones advertising such a package. Even Rustys has control arms.

run a compression test, then a leak down test if you can.

lots of good tips guys, thanks. :cheers: we discovered all this at the end of a long day and will be picking up where we left off monday when our heads are clearer. I'll get this line mapped out if I have to check every outlet in the house. :D few additions: the ground we checked against was the new one we had just run. both original hot wires in the bathroom die with the same breaker. wire colors? they're all brown. :yes: well, the originals are at least. a gfi outlet was going in as part of the upgrade. we didn't pop the beaker on purpose. :D a pro wired in the garage when it was built. almost lost the garage this past year due to a gazillion shortcuts he took.

please do not think that the rocky road half-kit is going to work without more parts. raising an MJ that high up on stock arms causes all sorts of havoc with your steering and suspension geometry. I hate them for calling that a "kit".

right click on the photo, choose "copy image location", paste that here, then highlight it and click the IMG tag. should look like this when you're done:

blowby doesn't mean you engine is bad.

follow the instructions in that link and you'll never have to worry about it again. :thumbsup:

duh. I read it as he swapped only a sensor and not the whole thing, meaning it still might need the whole distributor changed. :doh:

what changed?

stones or rain that gets flung up in the air by the tires. any TJ/YJ/ZJ/KJ/XJ/MJ and a couple of the newer jeeps can donate their wheels to your truck. with few caveats, they all have the same backspacing and bolt pattern. :thumbsup:

I was trying to rewire the outlet in my bathroom so that it's constant hot instead of switched hot. then I had an even better idea and figured I'd just run a new wire to the bathroom so it had its own breaker (house was built in the late 40s and so most of the house was originally on the same fuse and over the last 34 years my dad and now I have slowly separated out items like the upstairs, the garage, the microwave, fridge, etc and long ago had the incoming service/box upgraded). by now the old breaker location is down to powering the bathroom and some random lights/outlets around the house and I figured this was a prime opportunity to update again since running wires in the house is next to impossible and the bathroom gives us unique access due to the ginormous plumbing holes. but my readings aren't making sense to me. this is what I know so far... So I've got 2 wires coming in to the bathroom, 2 wires going out (on the opposite wall as the incoming) and 3 wires running between them (for switching the light and letting power go through). far as I can tell, those 3 wires are not connected to anything else. of the 2 wires coming in, one gives 90 volts to ground :hmm: , the other 110. I do not get 220 or continuity (breaker shut off of course) between the 2. of the 2 wires going out, one allows the rest of the lights on that breaker to work, the other, well, I'm not certain what it does since nothing changes if it's connected to anything or to nothing at all. If I connect the 90 volt incoming wire to the important outgoing wire, the rest of the lights on the circuit work fine. if I connect the incoming 110 wire, the breaker blows. If I attach the brand new hot wire to the outgoing wire, the breaker blows. and just when I was about to give up and return all the wiring to its former state, I noticed that the kitchen light (last thing in the kitchen that isn't on an independent breaker since it's wiring is buried in the ceiling) and its plug are doing funny things. the light switch has a built in constant hot outlet. the outlet is hot when the breaker is on, dead when the breaker is tripped. the light on the other hand works only when the breaker is on and that outgoing wire in the bathroom is connected to that incoming 90 volt wire. in my head these things have got to be related. :dunno: I haven't mapped out the entire house so this may not yet be solvable with the data available, I'm just looking for ideas and also writing it all down helps me keep it straight. I'm currently working on getting that stupid stuck light fixture in the kitchen down so I can access the wires.

don't do 6" if you have to cut corners to get there. I would stick with a 3" kit. :thumbsup:

factory anti-theft issue?

yup, totally depends on how cheap you can get parts. frequently it's cheaper to buy an entire XJ and then part out what you don't use.

didn't the guys on Extreme 4x4 get tires for their bobbed deuce for 100 each?

I built that before I even owed a digi camera, let alone before I thought I should share with the world. but i did snap lots of photos. :D someday I might actually get around to putting together a build thread. :shake: in the meantime, some photos are here: picturetrail.com/petermontie

jcw.com specials. :D

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

the shortest stock MJ rear shaft would be 41.25" long (4x4/swb/4.0/aw4/d-44)

so you've tried it?

I'm not entirely sure my 86 would do 90mph if it was dropped out the back of a plane.

95-01 will have disks and available 4.10s

swb Comanches have a foot more wheelbase than an XJ and so the XJ rear shafts will be a foot too short. When i converted to 4wd, I just had my rear shaft cut down to size.

31s will work fine on factory rims on a stock height 4x4. they may rub on the control arms at full lock, but there are ways around that (adjust the steering stops or swap in WJ lower control arms). if you go with aftermarket, get the most backspacing you can get. stock is around 5.25". for a 2" lift, you can get away with poly pucks up front, and then either longer shackles or an AAL in the rear. for 2", your brake lines, shocks, and steering will all work ok. you may need to adjust the steering though to fix the alignment or to center the steering wheel. my 4x4 90 with 15x7 Canyon rims (from a ZJ), 31" tires, stock height and WJ lower control arms.

2wd or 4wd? aftermarket rims will lessen the size of tire you can run without a lift because they have less backspacing and will push the tires into the flares when turning. and welcome! :waving: