Pete M

I would just wire it in as power and leave it there. :thumbsup: all Jeeps (after they got rid of that button) were wired that way. the comfort button only changes the shift points (and it really only matters when you floor it).

what mpgs are you seeing now? also, how are you calculating that?

all I'm saying is that any increase you might see won't be big enough to offset the investment you'll be sinking into the diesel swap. how many miles do you drive it a year?

sorry to burst your bubble, but there's just no way that'll happen. our bone-stock CRD libby can squeak out those numbers, and your Jeep has a LOT more wind/tire resistance. as I said before, do it 'cause it's cool, :thumbsup: don't do it to try and save money. :no: the engine block alone can set you back a grand. :ack: did you swap speedo gears to account for all the tire/gear changes?

oh good. I was afraid you were still pushing stock gears around. :D 4.0 or 2.5? the old MJ diesels were anemic piles. and parts are super expensive, if you can find them. We had a member down south that put a merc 5-cyl in his MJ. got it running and everything only to lose it in a hurricane. haven't heard from him in a while but I'd imagine you can find some info in the archives. be sure to check the tech and the projects forums be aware that diesels are big hulking bricks that weigh a ton and really don't fit well in the engine bay. you'll need a new trans, new mounts, new fuel delivery system, new exhaust, new radiator, new trans mount, etc. not even sure what sort of wiring you'll need to do to get the guages working. just about everything in your truck will need to be replaced or modded to make it work. a chevy v8 might actually be cheaper. also, out of curiosity, what the heck sort of fuel economy do you really think you'll get from an 8" lifted MJ on 35s, even with a diesel?

what size tires and what gears are you running?

swap in a diesel cause it's more powerful. swap in a diesel because it's cool. don't swap in a diesel because you think it'll save you money. you'll never recoup the cost of the swap. :thumbsup:

I smell a scam. plastics and gasoline are from a very, very different parts of the molecular soup we call oil. heat alone won't convert one to the other.

boooo kids. :fs1:

excellent. some thoughts off the top of my head now that I'm not actively driving: -I did the v6 airbox swap (so you're not replacing filters with every oil change). big thumbs up on that one. :thumbsup: -I generally unbolt the fuel filter bracket for changing the filter rather than trying to unscrew it, or more importantly, when trying to screw it back in (that's the tricky part). -I went with the samco hoses after the upper stock one finally blew. the lower blew a couple years ago and we've been on borrowed time with the used stock hose I got from a fellow CRD owner. -I like the bigger oil filter. :D but beware that the oil filter (big or small) is kinda expose underneath. Feel free to design a mini-skidplate if you want to do more than dirt roads. -the MAF sensor is the one I unplugged. it's in the top of the airbox lid. can't miss it. they call it the ORM (off road mod). world of difference. :D -I have yet to do the elephant mod. haven't really had any issues that would prompt me to do that. some common Liberty issues: -there's a plastic part in the window mechanisms that likes to self-destruct. we had one go. right now it's hekld up with some clothshanger wire, but there's a metal fix for it I'll be getting to some day. -the rear wheel sensor system is a weak link. either the sensors themselves, or the wires running to them. I think the wire running to the back pass side is the most common failure. and apparently only dealerships have the scanner to read brake codes. :dunno: Autozone sure doesn't. when it goes, it takes the abs and trac control systems with it. oh, and cruise control. my parents keep taking the CRD out of town, so I haven't gotten to that yet.

read through this yet? http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/v ... 79a918e5a1

square doesn't sound familiar either. :hmm: but maybe I'm just out of the loop. :doh:

welcome! :cheers: :waving: I've been meaning to use this quote, but kept forgetting about it. :D

sure those were aftermarket arms and not custom? I can't think of any lift whose arms aren't longer. :dunno: that's kinda the point of the arms, to correct the geometry. a 3" lift only needs them to be a little longer. there's some adjustment built into the factory lower arm mounts that you might be able to tweak individual results can vary using stock arms on a lift. your caster angle will lessen, sometimes leading to wandering on the road or even DW.

and start planning for that AX-15 swap. :thumbsup:

not sure about transfers, but I do know that 7/70 didn't cover the most important and expensive part, that engine. :( I suggest 4 years rather than 5. the monthly difference is minimal and that last year is a real killer. :ack: by then that Jeep might start needing work done to it and then you're making payments AND putting out for repairs. :ack: :ack: :ack:

found a decent site for computer stuff and so I replaced all my fans and even added an 'out" fan. it's quieter for sure, but not silent (they are cheap fans after all and my desktop is literally on the desk, right behind the monitor). the one fan that use to scream now and again was smashed repeatedly with a hammer. :yes: I got an extra 50mm fan for my xbox. got an idea on how to help it stay cool with out going all out giving 12 volts to the stock fans. :brows: (which is so far the absolute best way I've found for sucking out heat)

what's the plan for getting inside the frame? or inside the rockers? or inside the door panels?

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

one winter showed me every ding and flaw on my 86 which was previously rust free, though pretty beat up (ex-farm truck from oklahoma). I don't mess around with salt. booooo salt! :fs1:

won't make a lick of difference. our trucks rot from the inside-out. the rust will start where the undercoating can't reach.

what he said. don't ever EVER sink that much money into a Dana 35. new brake pads and gear oil are the limit I would put into a Dana 35. it's not worth any further investment. I blew up a dana 35 with 30" tires, so individual results vary. don't assume that you'll be fine. I can't stop you from buying those tires, but you'd better plan ahead and start looking for something stronger. 35s are a LOT of tire.

there's no way in hell I'd ever drive an MJ that clean in the winter time.

Programs like that may seem like a good idea on the surface, but they just become a huge scam and a tax on the poor (aka, those of us driving the older rigs). I feel the same way about emissions testing. just a big scam for more money. we used to have sniffer tests here in Michigan many years ago.

if the axle (both the fact that it's a dana 30 and that it has 4.10 gears) fits into your future plans, then this sounds like a great opportunity to upgrade the axle shafts to the later model with the big U-joints (since you'd need to replace those seals anyways). http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm