Pete M

in theory, a 3" lift on any MJ XJ would need the same length lower control arms and so anything you see that says it's for a 3" lift would be the same length. in reality, the adjustable ones are really nice to dial everything in right. :thumbsup:

it'll be a bit different. I couldn't find a 90. Try replacing the smaller fuses you find, the 5, 7.5, and 10 amp ones.

if you're dead set on parting out a rig, look for 2.5/5-speed/4wd (double check the gear ratios), then swap both axles over to your Jeep. that'll give you a pair of 4.10 axles and then you can work on upgrading the rearend later on with something that'll last.

It's a Dana 35. :( since the truck is a 4.0/auto, it should have 3.55 gears in it. be sure to price out everything it needs and then compare that to a buying a late model XJ axle to put in. It pains me to see money thrown at a 35. :( or better yet, I would contemplate an upgrade, either in strength or in gear ratio (or both :brows: )

yup. some TJs had them too, but also suffer from the low pinion issue. :ack:

just checking. the clutch master cylinder likes to leak brake fluid into the fuse box and that causes all sorts of calamity. which fuses did you replace?

profile pics have a smaller limit than regular posts. is that the photo you want to use? I'll do that for ya.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... =2&t=18625

anything that came from the factory would be a positraction (which is not a true "locker") and they are not the greatest things in the world. good for the street, but the clutches inside will give up offroading, leaving you spinning one tire. they can be ok if you have a front locker in the mix. If you want a locker out back, try to get an axle with an open differential. That way you can spend 2-3 hundred on a "lunchbox" style locker which replaces the spider gears inside an open diff, but will not work inside a posi diff. factory posi would be the cheapest (since it comes with the axle) a "lunchbox" locker would be an affordable but good and effective choice Detroits or other selectable lockers that replace the carrier are very expensive to do but the best thing out there.

Having a Dana 44 is sweet, don't get me wrong. I've got one in the 3.55 flavor (pushing 31s). but it will cost some decent money to do it right. If you can find one with 4.10 gears, the 8.25 will probably be your cheapest route and the 8.8 having the easier to find. both will require the same fabbing (clean off the old mounts and burn on MJ mounts) but the 8.8 will need you to buy spacers and either the proper U-joint flange or one of the combo U-joints (I've got two of them adapting my 78 ford axles to my 88 MJ, got them from NAPA). you haven't spent a penny yet though, so keep your options open. you might get lucky in a junkyard or on a local classifieds. don't settle for 3.55s though. you'll be much happier with 4.10s. your engine will feel much stronger and that equates to a bigger smile on your face. :D

not to beat the ford drum too much, but the 8.8 gives you disk brakes right off the bat. I would plan on buying some quality wheel spacers and just factor that into the budget.

yes. if you're going to do this, do it right. and do it right the first time. :D learn from our mistakes. :yes:

out of curiosity, do you have a manual transmission?

that close. reeeeeeal close. somehow you're missing the 'g' on the end. it should end in ".jpg".

3.55 or 3.07 are what you're likely to find in a 44. 4.10 will be exceedingly rare since it would have had to be born behind a Metric Ton MJ with a 2.5L engine. they didn't make many of those. :shake: both ratios will suck if you go too big on the tires.

haha. clearly you've never worked on a rusted out Michigan vehicle. :yes: those dang lower trans crossmember bolts reeeealy like to snap off if you look at them wrong. :fs1:

don't forget the T-bolts from a 1978 Ford 9". apparently these are pretty rare. :rant: but seriously, I try to snag any TPS or IAC (or other sensors) for my era/engine Jeep that looks clean (meaning it might be newer).

since it can cost up to 600 smackers just to change the gear ratio in an axle, the ratio is generally the most important factor in choosing your axles. just so we can keep the terminology straight, the number comes from dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear, and the bigger the number the "lower" the gear ratio, the lower the number, the "higher" the ratio. that's what they are called. I didn't make the rules. :yes: anywho, for bigger tires, you need lower gears (higher number) or your truck will no longer have the proper leverage to push the tires around and it'll feel more sluggish. 4.56 was used in some older Jeeps, but the most realistic low ratio you're likely to come across is 4.10. In Jeeps this is typically found behind 2.5L/5spds. In Explorers, you really need to check the tag on the diff or the code in the door to know for sure. 3.73 was very common in Explorers, but don't buy one til you can find a matching Jeep front axle. 3.73 was very rare in the Jeep front axles you'll want to find. If you can't verify the ratio by normal means, you can rotate the brake rotor/drum around and count the times the pinion rotates. if both rotors/drum rotate together in the same direction (meaning it likely has a functional posi), rotate them around once. if they move in opposite directions, brace one stationary and rotate the other twice. if one is already stuck in place, then just rotate the free one twice. my favorite reason for the 8.8 is the availability of 4.10s

rotated the diff to the "close enough" pinion angle and tightened down the U-bolts. still stuck on the one bad T-bolt. :( yes I could just replace it with a regular bolt, but now I'm obsessed with why I can't just go get a new freakin' T-bolt. :fs1: they used to be common in axles. thinking on a trip out to the junkyard tomorrow should napa fail me too. :brows: once I get everything buttoned up, we back out of the garage and putter on down to a shop to get the perches burned in place. :banana: then I'll have REAR WHEEL DRIVE as an option! woo hoo! :banana: :banana:

did you burp the system? where did you mount the new overflow tank?

meh, that's fairly normal for up north. :( My 88 came to me that way. stuff rusts away and if the previous owner never checked them, then they are passed on to the new owner. before you spend a small fortune on brake parts, what rear axle is it? what gear ratio? this might be a prime time to try and upgrade with your money rather than just replacing what was there.

I highlighted the important part for you. 4.10s are common in 8.8s, available in 8.25s, and super duper rare in 44s.

absolutely. and I'm not even positive which aluminum rims are like that. some do, some don't.

anyone know if NAPA carries axle T-bolts? (the bolts that hold non-c-clip axleshafts in)

only if you wanted to run them on a 2wd. some of the aluminum Jeep rims have center caps that won't fit over the 2wd bearing caps. the wheels fit, just not the little center caps. aside from that, the Canyons have the same backspacing and whatnot as any of the other MJ/XJ/ZJ/TJ/YJ/etcJ rims.