Pete M

I believe those are my words quoted from another post. :dunno:

ruaDyU05rKE cool. it works. :D

take the starter to autozone or other shop that checks them for free?

I installed a newer radiator with the rad cap and left the rest as-is. works great. :)

yup, many guys have reported having to bleed theirs multiple times. :(

I've seen occasional double posting, but you're the first I remember that's mentioned that they noticed it happening to themselves on a regular basis. I've got no clue why that would happen. :dunno:

I may be way off base here since I've not personally opened one up, but I don't believe it moves the throttle body plate at all. I think it opens and closes a small bypass hole to tweak the idle speed. :dunno:

the iac is operating all the time. if it was completely bad, I'd kinda expect issues after it warmed up too. :dunno: might be something like a vacuum leak that's sealing itself once it gets warm, or a faulty egr valve.

sprinkling baby powder around in the suspect area helped me find many a leak. :thumbsup:

hazards and turn signals use different flasher pot assemblies. it's possible that the signal one is dead. try swapping them and see what happens. :thumbsup: as to the rest of the stuff. are you sure your battery and cables are good and the connection between them is clean?

yup. though it no longer exists in any of my trucks and I've noticed no difference. :dunno: but none of my trucks were quiet in the first place soooo....

yup. I learned that the hard way. :(

I believe MJ perches are 42 inches on center.

the most common leak area that seems to cause that is the vacuum reservoir located in the bumper towards the pass side.

I'm sure there are official ways of doing that, but I don't know what they are. I'd probably swap it with its neighbor and see if the missing moves. :dunno:

MJ factory bars will have the rear runners going straight into the front angled part of the wheelwell instead of the top of the wheelwell or all the way to the floor.

got a photo of a 2.5 one? I don't yet have a 2.5 MJ.

It's possible that the injector is clogged or that it's receiving a weak signal (or no signal at all) :dunno:

check your local craigslist for rollbars. most small truck rollbars will work. :thumbsup:

yup, that. also check the condition of the resistor pack. :thumbsup:

any evidence of brake fluid in the fuse panel?

SYEs are not needed on MJs until you hit maybe 8". and even then it's due to needing the strength upgrade rather than an angularity issue. We have a much longer wheelbase than XJs and TJs and so our driveshaft angles are much less severe. :thumbsup: We have 2 members here that have had Rustys leaf fail on them. Hellcreek would be a better option. rough riding lifts are typically due to cheap shocks and/or stiff coils. be sure to do your research and you should be able to avoid both. It's usually less of a "this lift sucks" and more of a philosophical difference with how a lift should be (plus an added variable in that cheap lifts will typically have cheap shocks because, well, otherwise the lift wouldn't be cheap anymore). Lift companies with a history of parts failures or horrible customer service should generally be avoided. don't forget the laundry list of parts that go with those 4.5" coils. :cheers:

seems there is yet another item on our trucks that's GM in origin. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... ing=search

tried autozone? napa?

maybe corrosion in the headlight sockets?