flint54

And let me add a tidbit from my experience doing similar. Get yourself a good angle indicator (clinometer), and position everythng under the vehicle as you intend it. Temporarily hook up the driveshaft, lower the vehicle to the expected ride height (bottle jacks under frame). Get all your driveline angles worked out and mark the position of the spring perches before welding. Yes, you can use angle shims for fine adjustment, but get it all close as you can before welding.

If by some strange chance, you end up finding not one but two of those, I'll gladly buy the other one.

Interesting. Mine is a 1992, and there is such a copious quantity of this stuff that it can only have been put there intentionally, at the time of original build. It is definitely not hardened, it can be smeared easily with finger. It seems as if intended to inhibit moisture and corrosion, and has done a pretty good job so far. I will clean it all out, but it will not be fun, especially the cabin half. After it's gone, I guess I'll spray with contact cleaner, and then coat with the modern connector paste. I really don't want to ever demate this connector again. Thanks! What substance would you recommend I apply to seal the connector body to the bulkhead?

I had occasion to demate my bulkhead electrical connector today. I'm certain it has never been demated before. I'm also certain that the clutch master does not leak. I've never had any type of electrical problem with this connection, but I found it to be full of black, sticky goop. The connectors are shiny (not corroded) but it is an unholy mess. Is it supposed to be like this? Should I clean all that stuff away, or should I just leave it alone? It looks and feels just like roofing tar!

Watch out for mexican glass. Look for abberations in the glass before it gets installed, especially in the field of view.

RE: "This question is a little off topic, but my 88 MJ with no tow package could pull one horse in a one horse trailer, right? It would probably be around 2000lbs" If it were a load of blocks, I wouldn't be as concerned as I am for a horse. Different consequences. How confident are you about the structural load path between trailer, hitch, bolts, truck frame? How excellent are the brakes and suspension? How thorough is your roadside breakdown preparation/plan? Unless everything is A+, I wouldn't do it. I still wouldn't recommend it, even a small horse in a small trailer.

Here's "Relay 101": http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm#demo First determine which relay is for the starter (dist box cover will say) Then pull it. Then determine which terminals are the coil and which are the line/load. Energize the coil and check voltage. The terminal numbers are pretty common, I think 30 is line (hot), 85 is coil ground, 86 is switched hot to coil, and 87 is load (to starter). If you get nothing at terminal 86 socket when operating the ignition switch, you may have a bad switch.

What are those flares?

Seels like any windshield outfit could also supply you that seal, might even be cheaper. Might also be easiest to let them install it since, I believe, it only installs in conjunction with glass R&R and not just by itself. Someone double check this please.

There are probably a hundred ways for water to get in, you just have to start at the top and work you way down, positively eliminating every one of them. I thnk the windshield s a most probable source, or door perimeter seals, or firewall penetrations. One item many (I think) of our trucks are missing is the seal for the rear edge of the hood. Some remove them intentionally to improve air flow. In my case, I restored that seal to reduce the rain getting to the firewall. Check also the rear window seal. I re-sealed mine with a fine bead of black silicone to be certain.

The part number, from the 88-90 FPM, is 5252137. They call it the "hydraulic sleeve clutch control package".

Thanks to fellow club member Mike, my choice oif option D is made. What a great group of folks this place is!

Mike, Awesome! And you're less than an hour away! They might be same, let me do some homework and see what I can learn, but the best test would be a fitcheck of the mating parts. Please call me at three-two-one -5-3-6--1-0-0-7, or send me your number and perhaps we can meet up today or tomorrow? THanks!! Tom

I know this is probably a real long shot, but perhaps someone has an NP242J (1990 - 1993 vintage) all torn apart and abandoned. I would really like that differential if it's healthy! It's the #21 assy in the image. Perhaps I have some desireable part that could be offered in trade?

If this were a pilot bearing in the and of a crankshaft I wouldn't mind some hammering. As it is though, it's in a thin aluminum T-case housing, probably not a good candidate for blows. Also, there's no gap under the bushing, cannot even get the point of dental pick under it.

My boneyard NP242 was almost too good to be true. $75 and it felt good externally. Ordered and received all bushings, bearings, seals, chain, and input gear (needed 23 spline). I've got it now fully disassembled, marveling at how good shape each part was as it came out. Right up until the last one. The differential case was disassembled, carefully cleaning each of the 8 internal gears and 12 shims and the case halves. As I looked closely, the dismay suddenly came to life. There is a bearing land on the mainshaft gear (item #22 in the image) where it rotates within the top case half and it was really galled. The mating bore of the top case half was likewise galled. They aren't a nice fit any more. I've smoothed the two surfaces as best I can, but the two parts are sloppy when nested together, about 0.020" lateral freeplay. So my puzzle is where to go from here. I've got several hundred $$ into this T-case so far, and I'm not eager to just abandon it now. I could: A) put it back together as it is and hope for the best B) abandon this T-case and find another, hoping it's healthier C) buy a new differential ($900) and press on (not bloody likely!) D) hunt for someone willing to sell a used, healthy, differential. Who wishes to share their opinions?

Thanks! Pete, I scrutinized the slave (1994) hoping for any port to bleed from but no joy. 87Warrior I like your idea! Even though my slave is used and has no transport straps I think this will work. The idea, I think, is that the slave piston will push the air up and through the master while drawing fluid into itself. May take a bunch of strokes, but those are free. I'll have my trusty helper (wife) monitor the fluid level in the reservoir.

So, I'm wrapping up my conversion to external slave, with the upgraded stainless braided line, and it just dawned on me that I have no way to bleed the system. The external slave (from 94 XJ) has no bleed fitting. I know that replacements are often sold as a sealed system (slave, line, master) that is pre-bled. Even if I custom plumb a bleeder where the line connects to the slave, the slave itself will not get bled. I've searched around the forum and haven't seen this issue addressed. Any ideas?

A good body shop, one that has done this job before, will probably tell you it's time and materials. Depending on several factors (like how busy they are), the hourly rate could be anywhere between $40 and $100. It could take a pro a half day or so for each side. So, after you get the carpet out, and before you buy the pans, why not just bolt a seat back in and drive it to the shops to get quotes.

That's the surgery I feared, just like having to drill out that @#(%$ shift fork roll pin (easy out my @$$). Astonished to find what I thought were replacement bushings at the local Jeep dealer, only to see that they're very different than the originals. The new bushings are only 2/3 as tall, and they come spilt. Plus, they're sloppy as hell on the shaft. Those originals are suddenly not looking so bad. They may polish up and serve just fine, since the shift rail isn't a rotating, or even a sliding, part. It just floats in these bushings and stuff slides up and down on it.

Ok, I've got the NP242 reduced to a large mountain of parts. Most new parts are on their way (chain, bearings, seals, etc.) When I opened up this case it was filled with sludge, the magnet was heavily encased with metal-infused sludge, the oil screen was gone (ground up in the chain), so this box has seen some hard times. Total strip down and total clean should bring it back to life. My big mystery, so far, is how to replace the shift rail bushings. They're galled and need to be replaced. They're pressed into blind holes, one into each case half, and they're bottomed out. No chance to use a traditional bushing puller. The bushings show as available (4338945), but how to get the old ones out has me baffled. Who has the technique for this task?

Ok, I have located my taillight box, finally. I only have pairs. Sorry.

I am fond of the lube locker gaskets, although I have not (yet) learned how many R&R cycles to expect without leaks. Three so far, without issue. When it fails I'll modify the cover to include a drain plug which, in my opinion, should be standard design on all diffs. Anything that requires fluid changes should have a handy drain provision.

My OEM wheels have been powder coated for several years now and I have experienced none of the concerns you mention. The only con was the cost. One plus is that they are very easy to keep clean.

I have several pair, and might have a single but not sure which side. Let me check tomorrow after work.