flint54

And, their 19" length is actually total (includking the nipples). The body is only 13" where mine is 21".

MOOG makes very good parts and has done so for decades. Where is your trackbar loose? Might it be that the hole in the track bar mount is worn? That's a fairly common condition.

RE: "If you want a Jeep I-6 to sound good ... go Gibson." So pursuing this from a slightly different angle (since stroking isn't in my budget), just which Gibson is being used? The only Gibson that comes close to the right dimensions (2.250 in & out, inlet centered, outlet offset, oval body) is model 55141, BUT it's too short. Their body is 19" long and mine is 21" long. My muffler is badly buckled (don't ask how) and needs replacement. And, I'm not really after the sound, I just want a good muffler that doesn't need replacement again soon (unless I happen to buckle it - again). I like quiet.

Yes, my cluster has both the part time and the full time light positions. Quoting the online search result: "The NP242 Selec-Trac transfer case debuted with the compact Jeep Cherokee in 1984." My guess is that NP242 was never an option for MJ but I can't imagine why not.

Good stuff - thanks! Not quite the same as my situation as I have AX15 rather than AW4, and the plug for my T-case switch is hard wired into the harness all the way, apparently, to the bulkhead. I had to splice in an extension as the switch is farther aft on the 242 than it was on the 231. Where I'm missing the wire is from the instrument cluster to, apparently, the inside of the bulkhead connector. I'm off to the JY in the morning for some exploratory surgery, and hopefully the wire(s) I need. The factory schematic circuit table has now clued me that the wire I'm missing is labelled "XJ only. From that I surmise that 242 was never offered on the MJ. Anyone know differently?

I was rather surprised at the low viscosity of the MTL fluid. Poured quite a bit thinner than 10w30 motor oil.

RE: "not sure if I want to spend the big bucks for MTL..": Yeah, that was a difficult pill to swallow at $16/qt. Costly as Vegas showgirls. But, I figure if it prolongs the life of the box and has a much longer service interval, it may be actually cheaper in the long run.

Just Expect Extensive Perforation

A confirmation of "A" and "B would be stellar - thanks! Hopefully "simple" doesn't involve dismantling that bulkhead connector.

Ouch! That could be some challenging surgery to resolve. I think the only real solution is splicing in a section from a donor vehicle. I'm now praying not to find anything like that when I pull my windshield.

Oops! Read too fast.

Wondering if Selec-trac was ever offered as an MJ build option? I think not, because it appears the wire is missing to power the full time lamp. It would would be pin 11 on the white cluster connector (ref schematic page 54), and there's no wire on my connector. Circuit number is 106. Yes, I know I don't "need" the lamp, but would like it to work all the same. Looks like it runs to bulkhead connector position B5. Very surprised they would build harness without this wire. Has anyone tackled this before?

Just passing on an observation. I recently replaced my clutch, and decided to try the Redline MTL fluid in the AX-15. Even though I've made it a habit to replace the gearbox oil every 10k or so, WOW what a difference! Much smoother shifting, very noticable difference.

Please elaborate - why not??

The side fit, plus the nubs on the underside, keep them firmly in position. Yes, I have worked on the Orbiters for 29 years. I have spent this past year getting them ready for, and delivering them to, their final resting places in DC, NY, LA, and just retired the final vehicle last friday to it's museum home here at KSC. In a few more weeks I will retire myself.

I just installed a set and they fit pretty well. The side fit is great, and my only wish is that the back edge was a little closer to the seat. When properly positioned for best side fit and best front fit, the back edge seems to stop a couple inches short of the seat brace. Still, they wil do the job and they look pretty good once you black out their logo. I would have been far more pleased if they had a "JEEP" logo!

:yeah that: 1000%. Whoever came up with that internal slave ought to be...................(fill in your own retribution).

If you added fluid, the old fluid went somewhere. It may have gone slowly enough from internal slave to not be noticed. If adding fluid got your clutch back, be very grateful for the graceful failure (this was my story last month). I bit the bullet and converted to external slave, as I had been saving the parts for more than a year, just waiting for the right reason - like the leak that just developed (with only 92K miles). Inside the master reservoir there is a mark (or a lump) about 1/4" below the rim to indicate the "full" level. If you've got to drop the trans, might as well do it all, including disc, pressure plate, and pilot bearing. Hope you have a warm place to work on it !

Desert Truck &Auto (a wrecking yard) in Coachella, CA has a 1990 MJ with perfect cab corners. Last month I had them cut the rear wheel wells off for me. If you call them they can fax you a sheet on which you will mark what/where you want cut. They will cut and send. http://www.deserttruck.com/

RE: "Pickle Fork, vise and BFH" Got a vise, got a wide assortment of FH's, but thanks for the reason to go buy a tool I never had, a pickle fork. That did the job almost too easily. In another 21 years when I have to replace this boot again I will be well equipped!

RE: "Fill it till it runs out of the hole! Hasn't failed myself or many other vehicles ive used this concept on." Yes, as has also worked well for me on countless axles and MT's, but I was reminded of this by the occaisonal "DO NOT OVERFILL" warnings on some devices, and wanted to be certain this was not the case for NP242. Thanks.

I need to replace the rubber boot on the shifter housing, it's split wide open. I've got the shifter on the bench and cannot seem to get it apart. The FSM doesn't provide the detail, or at least I cannot find it. The lower shaft is squared where it goes into the upper shaft housing, and it appears there are metal clips pressing against that square. I've soaked it with penetrant and have tapped almost to the point of doing damage. Who can explain the secret? Thanks!

Copy, thanks. So it's not sensitive to small amount of excess fluid.

Welcoming your opinions on how sensitive the transfer case is to fluid level. The book calls for 1.4 liters. I put the fluid into my rebuilt, but not yet installed case, and then held it at all angles while manually turning the yoke to wet all the gears. In my haste, I failed to realize that without a DS installed it would leak. I'm going to add fluid to about what I think spilled, but if I wind up 1/10 of a liter off are there any consequences? I'm not fond of the old "fill until it runs out the hole" method because of angle variation. Thoughts?

Oh man, you dodged a big bullet !! Hope you find one. A quick search of ChryCo shows NLA. I bought one from Morris 4x4 a year ago, but they no longer carry them.