flint54

Yes, I had a distributor issue, and replaced the whole thing. Coil and wires also new. The plugs, to my surprise, weren't really fouled at all, in fact the ceramic was whiter than I would like to see. All six plugs are identical. I'll check timing again tomorrow, but last check it was on the mark at idle and had smooth advance. The injectors were very recently replaced, and the FPR is new Hesco adjustable, and set per FSM. Vacuum is excellent, but I've never touched MAP. It's about the only thing I haven't replaced yet. By all means, go for the A/F gauge. It's a lot more fun to watch than the road.

Ok, finally installed a wideband A/F meter (autometer 3370). Installed also the separate O2 sensor (that came with the meter), slightly offset from the OEM O2 sensor (keep out of the stagnation region). This is fascinating to watch this gauge. During warmup, it hovers around 10. After reaching temp, it's right at the optimum 14.7, and stays there while moving. Now here's the puzzle: When I come to a stop, quickly, slowly, doesn't matter, the reading drops to 10 and stays there, even if I rev the engine. The longer I'm stopped, the fouler things get. Once I sputter back up to speed, it's right back to 14.7 where it should be. The TPS is new. The IAC is new (and bore is clean). Vacuum and fuel pressures are spot on. There are no codes. If I'm moving and floor it, it pulls strongly almost to 3800 rpm and then sputters badly. Back off and all is well. Most puzzling.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest a product that has worked well for me in several vehicles that have had rather marginal cooling system performance. Since you live where frost is merely a very distant childhood memory, (like me), there's no need for antifreeze. I run distilled water with Water Wetter, which still provides pump lubrication. I'm no chemist, but my experience is that the this stuff really does improve the heat transfer into, and back out of, the fluid. http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10 BTW, I overheat on the beach too, but it has more to do with the scenery than the sand.

Welcome aboard!

Well, I didn't actually "need" to, I just wanted the second fan to have a completely independent sending unit. I had added the brass fitting for the SPAL sensor, before learning that their overpriced sensor was crap. There was a lot of back and forth discussion between myself and the SPAL engineer before they would supply me the cal data for their sensor, and then when I demonstrated that the sensor response was flawed across the temp spectrum they would not warranty it. Their response was that "they don't always work well in Jeeps". Great controller though.

The original temp sender (that runs the gauge) is unchanged, and first fan triggers also when AC comes on. The second sender is same as the first except plumbed into a brass tee fitting I inserted into the heater line. That sender is 53005309 or 56027012, not sure the difference. I ran #10 wire for fan, probably overkill, but I, like you, hate the smell of melted harness. Second sender triggers the SPAL controller. Had to add a ground line, since sender is variable resistance to ground. For some reason, the SPAL-PWM-V3 seems to now be NLA, which is a shame because the programming permits you to select triggering temperatures.

A handful of small fasteners is usually free at the boneyard, and guaranteed to be correct.

Hesco has them as well: http://www.hescosc.com/shop.asp?action= ... catId=7735

Also running the SPAL unit. Had to resolve an issue with them regarding their temp sensor responding poorly, but once I switched over to using an OEM sensor, all is well. I plumbed a second OEM sensor into the coolant hose that feeds the heater control valve, had to also run a ground line. The twin electric fan job really moves a bunch of air. Why two sensors? I did not want one failed sensor taking out both fans. Get the SPAL controller, but don't buy their sensor, which, by the way, even they (SPAL) said does not work well in Jeeps.

RE: Dry Ice. Not too long ago I put a ding (that you could cover with a silver dollar - do they still make those?) right square in my pristine tailgate. Made me madder than hell - at myself. Figured I would try this dry ice "magic", couldn't hurt anyways. Laid a chunk of dry ice on the dent for an hour, not much change - but some change, and the ice was gone. Got a bunch more dry ice, piled it on, and covered it with insulation. Left it on overnight. Next day the dent was about 90% gone, and so was most of the ice. Now here's the magic part: As soon as that metal warmed back up to room temp, the dent came right back.

As topic implies, when the nominal operating temp is reached (~200F), motor runs like crap, which suggests a poor O2 sensor, even though it's fairly new (<5K miles) and OEM. Curious if there are other inputs besides O2 that are ignored by ECU during open loop?

Aftermarket only, probably a Lund, and I'm sure you will get requestors as these are a very desireable item. Yes, it is installed with lag-like fasteners, and yes, it will leave (8 I think) holes in your roof. Would be the ideal opportunity to just take the entire roof off and do a roll cage-canvas top mod. The fasteners have snap-on plastic covers.

I see enough rust in enough places that I suspect there's more to be found. If you buy it, and spend $1000 on what obviously needs to be done (never mind the hidden stuff for the moment), will it be worth $2500? I don't think so. I suggest looking a bit longer, in the $2000 - $2500 range. The rebuilt motor doesn't wipe out the shortcomings, to me. I also think it's a $1000 truck.

RE: Distributor squeaking. Remove distributor (after marking position), remove roll pin securing the gear, remove cap, rotor, and sync plate. then slide out the shaft. Chances are there's old gummed up oil causing the squeak. That was the case with mine. Might clean it up and be nearly good as new, but at least no more squeak.

$30K is way too high if you do it yourself. My shop is 24ft x 32ft, concrete slab, frame walls, truss roof with shingles, large roll-up door, wired, insulated, sheetrocked, and painted. It was permitted for FL wind code and it cost me less than $15K.

Up until recently I've been flinging people off the planet at 18,000 mph. Now, after more than 28 years, this phase of life is soon to close. So I took the Comanche to work today to get some images of my two all time favorite vehicles. Enjoy! Tom

As the title says, figured I would ask here first before hitting the JY Part number is 5300-3475 Thanks!

I sure wish so. I scour JY's often, and it is rare I find a 242. I could kick myself for not knowing about the shift gate difference when I got my 242. Anyways, I'm on the lookout now - thanks!

Here: http://www.4xshaft.com/

"(but also the shift gate for the 242 is different from the 231. Where the handle has to go sideways to go to neutral is further back, and I believe the overall range from 2wd to 4-low is longer.)" Very helpful observation! Do you think the 231 gate can be easily modified/trimmed to permit correct 242 shifting or do you think the 242 gate is a must have? Thanks!

Nope. My experience, after using several different batches, on a number of different surfaces, in several different Wx conditions, is all the same. The coating becomes tack free in 4 to 6 hours, and diamond hard in 12-24 hours. In fact, I've grown to hate POR-15 because it cures too easily. I have wasted more product than I've used because, once opened, it cures in the can. I've tried saran wrap under the lid, and that was only marginally effective. I complained to their tech folks. The were kind enough to at least reply, and informed me that moisture in the air was what enabled/triggered the curing process, and offered my next batch with free shipping. I suspect you've either got a bad batch, or some residual contamination on the surface.

In your image you see the remains of a tapered rubber grommet that secures that line into the tray area of the tank. There's a locating sheet metal flange into which the grommet is positioned. I don't think they're individually available, so JY is probably your source. I think you may live just fine without it, since the assembly is pretty secure with the main locking ring and gasket, but I would replace it to be certain. Looks like it's been gone for a while now.

Look closely at the first picture, and you will see that the "sleeve" is actually a component bolted to the front of the transmission called a retainer. Held by 8 or 9 bolts, it supports the front shaft and provides the surface for the TOB to slide on.

Well, that was my leaning too, but is there any rule of thumb such as mid span deflection to even judge stretch? I only want to go in there once, but if a new chain deflects as much as the original one did, seems there might not have been stretch. I don't have a good feel for how tough (or not tough) these chains are. Comments?

I'm getting ready to open up the back side of a 242, and would like to learn from someone who has been there and knows how to check the chain for stretch. How much is too much? Conversely, would the recommendation be to just preemptively replace it regardless? I have no idea how many miles this unit has, I only know it shifts well. Thanks for input.