flint54

Not long ago I posted a question about water getting in the cab and wetting the passenger side carpet. I had already checked many possible sources, to no avail. I then checked all the good suggestions, also to no avail. Recall I had stated the floor to be in great shape, and by appearance it was. The MJ floor is liberally factory coated along the front and side with a past-like sealant, often quite thick. I decided to peel away the sealant in the corner where floor joins inner sill and guess what I found. Voila, the water source. Really ugly! Now who's got repair suggestions? Image Not Found

Just worked the repair described in the provided link and it's simple, cheap, quick, and very effective. Note however, that the little sliding tabs may need a little PB to free them if they haven't been worked in a while, or ever. Also, be careful where the arms are oriented when reinstalling to avoid contact/damage with the lower windshield trim - if it's not already damaged. Suggest greasing the splines before putting the arms back on.

Common wisdom is that attempting to remove the bonded button by mechanical means will likely result in broken windshield. Sooo, has anyone had success removing this bonded little bugger using solvent? What solvent? It is mis-positioned far too low for my preference. It just laughs at acetone, laquer thinner, toluene, and 190 proof alcohol. Suggestions? Thanks!

Ok, when I bought this 92 MJ the passenger side floor was soaked. I stripped out everything, found the floor in great shape. I dried out all the goods and put them back. I have also done the following: 1) verified windshield seal is sound - with pressure washer (had all the inside trim and headliner removed for full visibility) 2) verified no leaks through firewall, even replaced the seal under the hood rear edge. 3) installed new perimeter door seal and verified full contact/compression with grease 4) verified AC/heater box is draining properly, and installed new drain tube The rubber/foam insulator on the inner side of firewall remains dry, moisture is on horizontal surface only. I've spent the last 3 days driving through Georgia rainstorms, but for the life of me cannot figure how the water is getting in. Even the original sealant around the hole plugs looks sound and pliable. Carpet is dry, but padding is wet, only forward of the seat. Suggestions anyone? Thanks!

Update: I've replaced the coolant temp sensor (based on code 22), I've cycled the key at least 50 times, and I've also disconnected the battery. Still have the check engine light, and still have code 22. Any ideas? Thanks!

I will give that a try, but I'm curious how disconnecting the battery will clear the code that was generated by disconnecting the battery?

Got it - thanks! Code = 12 and code = 22. From here: http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html I get the following: 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected 22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing I recently had some things disconnected, so likely the source. What I can't find is how to turn the light off.

Yep, check engine light just came on (not the maint req'd light), only 58,000 miles, and runs perfectly. The "check it for free" place only reads OBD II. Wasn't there some scheme about clicking the key "x" times, and count long/short blinks, then go find a decipher code somewhere? Wasn't there also some pins to jumper, once the fault is corrected, to reset the light?

Here is a potential source for the interior lights: http://www.infiniteinnovations.com/main.asp?p=4_179 Look at the fourth one down. Not factory, not chrome, but appears to be essentially same.

Have a 92 (electronic) speedometer. Trip odometer doesn't work. Main odometer works fine, and the trip numbers try to work, but do not. The gauge is out, and the spring-loaded reset rod (and affiliated hardware) do not appear hung up at all. I bought a spare instrument cluster at the JY, hoping to learn how to fix through some exploratory surgery, but, I'm not having much success and I don't want to ruin a good gauge. Yes, I could just live without the trip meter, but would really like to have it working. Yes, I could just send it off to some gauge shop and pay a large sum, but I was wondering if anyone has any success (and advice) at repairing this newer style? If it turns out that I have to just replace my gauge with the spare gauge, where/how are these controlled for various gear ratios? (since came out of an auto XJ, probably different ratio than my MJ) Thanks!

Mystery solved. The "extra" line is configured into the harness, and is meant for an XJ with a rear washer. It runs through a boot on the firewall (on XJ only) just outboard of the brake booster, and continues along the LH sill all the way to the back. Tom

Ok, just how do you UN spot weld something, without tearing the metal? I'm replacing the drivers front seat support stamping, and, in addition to the rivet, there are two large spot welds per pad. Chiseling is causing cracks, and it seems that drilling these would leave not much material left.

In Houston for a few days, anyone know about a JY worth visiting?

Nope, not the washer hose, that system works fine. Tom

Try this: This image shows the LH end, and has a small connector inserted: Image Not Found This images shows the RH end, which I lifted from below the reservoir for the photo. The reservoir has two vacuum line support notches, and this line occupies one of those. Image Not Found Tom

New to MJ, exploring under the hood, and find an "extra" vacuum line that seems to be original build (buried deep into the large harness across firewall). One end dangles under the washer reservoir, the other end dangles next to the brake booster. 1992 eliminator, 4.0, 5sp, 4wd. Thanks! Tom

Is there an acronym page around here? CAD = ? SFAT = ? Thanks! Tom