flint54

Here's to skid tests! :cheers: Was you goal to achieve lockup of all four together? Well, if the experts say it hasn't been done (yes I knew there wasn't a kit), I guess I might be charting new territory. When (if?) I get the thing open I'll post some images of what I find. I just cannot let go of the curiosity. Tom

Looking at my Jeep Parts Catalog, it appears the answer is yes. Assuming you're talking about a six cylinder, the part numbers I see (for manual and for and auto, for XJ and MJ) are as follows: Up to 2-19-91: 5300-8209 After 2-19-91: 5209-7522 (this one is also on 5 speed ZJ) Happy hunting! Tom

Yes, I know it can be bypassed but I'm not there yet. Found the large C-ring (that holds the thing together) missing on mine. Found a replacement valve at the JY today. Not sure how to test it. I can blow through the valve while rotating the arm and do not sense any restriction due to arm position, even though the arm has some resistance through a small portion of it's arc. I would like to attempt a rebuild, even though the FSM doesn't discuss. My reasoning is that the unit would not have been designed for disassembling if it wasn't intended to ever be serviced. Have any of you ever opened one of these units and restored the function? Sure would be nice to have some info on this. Thanks!! Tom

Anyone see the Comanche tailights on Ebay that just sold for more than $130?? Holy Smokes!! They weren't even all that great.

Choice of solvents best if you know what you're removing. Otherwise, the multi-pronged approach recommended, starting with the least agressive. Mechanical (brush) and water, then a good alkaline cleaner (marine clean, tri-sodium phosphate, etc), then a fast evaporating solvent (I prefer acetone or IPA rather than the oily residue mineral spirits or turpentine), followed by acid etch (if needed) then very hot water and warm air to dry. Best test of "really clean" is a water-break test where pure water sheets (rather than beads) on the surface. This well tell you how well the surface will participate in adhesion.

I think the PO was a bit heavier than me, the outboard side of the drivers seat bottom sags badly. I really want to keep the original seats, since other than the sag, they're in excellent condition. Anyone ever successfully resolve this issue short of replacing the seat? FPM indicates that the driver and passenger bottom are same PN, so I might just "cheat' and swap them. CPD shows the pad and pan assy (PN 55195850) still available at ~$200 bucks, but it's not _that_ bad yet. Comments?

Not sure I've seen a torque spec for those little screws. When I did mine I carefully swabbed the holes and screws with solvent (IPA), then installed them wet with blue loctite, and torqued them to approximately 20-25 inlbs (IN, not FT).

First off, the gauge works. Most folks would say "Good enough, don't mess with it!" However, the low fuel warning light comes on way too soon, i.e., at 1/4 tank. Have 18.5 gal tank, so that's just under 5 gal. FSM says light should come on at 2 gal. The gauge says full when full, and empty when empty, so the response seems in order. FSM for mine says full = 5 ohms, half = 33 ohms, and empty = 105 ohms. Also says low light should come on at 66.5 ohms (via a module on the back of the cluster). Clearly not a linear response. I noticed at the JY that the variable resistor on the sending unit has provisions for adjustment, but this would only change the output as a function of fluid level and would affect the overall guage position. I know I should (and will) measure resistance at the various fluid levels, but am puzzled how I would adjust the LFW only. Don't recall seeing any adjustment on the module, and FSM is silent.

Look at this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14794

Suggest putting the bed in it's side, and tilted in 10-15 degrees or so. This should permit you to reach nearly all the way into the lower area (one side at a time). Suggested first step is visual evaluation with light and mirror to determine current condition. You may find the need to wire brush the dirt, light rust, etc first. The Marine clean should dissolve the light primer on those surfaces, and it requires thorough rinsing afterward. Lot's of rinsing! If you really have no rust, I think the metal prep is not needed, but your choice. Suggest hair drier to thoroughly dry out the area before coating. The foam ball on a stick should take care of the tight pinch seam, and a small trim roller on a stick should permit you to reach the acreage. Good Luck!

The correct retaining clips are available by the gazillions at the JY, need 12 or 13 as I recall, and takes a bit of practice to remove them with a small flat screwdriver without wrecking them. Their wide wings hold better than the round push-pin type fastener, I think.

What you list is the equivalent of an electric master cylinder. Yes, it will hold your brakes, right up until a hydraulic failure, which is the whole premise of a separate mechanical brake. For the couple hundred bucks and several hours you would spend on one of these, seems to me you could fix the emergency brake? Would be much safer in the long run, and you might even get lucky and find that the fix isn't that bad.

Congratulations on completing a very difficult task. Bet you won't want to do it twice!

RE: "ANY new injector is going to beat a 1990 injector" I'm thinking that injector life is more a function of miles and fuel quality, not so much years. Any opinions on how many miles a set of injectors should provide good service, assuming good fuel is used?

Agree. Wasn't clear what year he's working on. Sig says 87 MJ, but post just says working on XJ. Back to ECU I suppose.

There is an auto-shutdown relay in the power distribution center (position E). I think this relay can kill the injector circuit. I have the FSM schematics, but no scanner. You have fuel pressure at the rail - right?

The rear hood gasket is part number 55235178AB and is available from: http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ for $23.01.

Finally got around to changing out the valve cover gasket with that nice (expensive!) Felpro VS50522T, and torqued it back up to 85 inlb (per FSM) in a good pattern. Let it set overnight, torqued it again. Let it set overnight again, torqued it again. No leaks at all. Thinking I ought to just keep checking it periodically for leaks and not worry about holding 85, since there's so much compression in the gasket. Comments?

Not in that picture. Shown are the main supports and the backing plates which sandwich the frame, but there are two more parts that tie in from below that do not appear to be included. See item #4 in this image. Image Not Found

Yep, traced the cruise control failure to the stalk switch. The FSM describes the ordeal of disassembly to replace it. On GM cars, the stalk just snaps out, along with the CC harness, and this one looks identical. Anyone know if these just snap out also? I can tear into the column (as FSM describes) but would rather not if it isn't necessary.

Pull your battery tray out and you're probably not going to like what you find. I got lucky again and found a treatable (Ospho + POR-15) patch, but observed that the tray sits flat against the sheet metal and invites rust. Suggest placing nylon spacers on the three studs to raise the tray up off the metal.

Maybe worth $75, but they are missing the lateral brackets and doesn't look like the hooks are included either. I got an OEM set recently on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0356688054) for $63 including shipping and they just needed cleanup. The OEM setup has the bumper mount brackets welded on.

All this talk about the LH tail light ground being so important, I decided to check. Although it didn't appear bad, I wire-brushed everything to bright shiny metal, screwed it down tight, and covered with grease. I noticed that the upper outboard taillight attach screw hole in the sheet metal was all warbled out (explains the missing screw), and I repaired it by filing it out square with a jeweler's file until I could press-fit one of those square plastic inserts used for the grille attach screws. Works like a champ.

I did LOT's of shopping for replacement carpet, and learned that virtually every supplier buys the exact same item from the same mill, with the same quality. I've also heard lot's of complaints about not fitting nearly as well as OEM. Sooo, when I had mine out I first separated the mass backing and dried it thoroughly, then I pressure washed the carpet, then soaked it with enzyme carpet cleaner and scrubbed like hell with a wire brush, then pressure washed it again, and it came out pretty darn good. Took about a week of hot sun to dry it completely, but it sure did fit well. Not sure about the earlier MJ's but mine also had (passenger side only) a thick, vinyl-encapsulated, fiberglass mat to deal with exhaust heat. That was hell to get dry. Ended up taking it out of the wrap, coiling it up, and baking it in the kitchen oven.

I did LOT's of shopping for replacement carpet, and learned that virtually every supplier buys the exact same item from the same mill, with the same quality. I've also heard lot's of complaints about not fitting nearly as well as OEM. Sooo, when I had mine out I first separated the mass backing and dried it thoroughly, then I pressure washed the carpet, then soaked it with enzyme carpet cleaner and scrubbed like hell with a wire brush, then pressure washed it again, and it came out pretty darn good. Took about a week of hot sun to dry it completely, but it sure did fit well. Not sure about the earlier MJ's but mine also had (passenger side only) a thick, vinyl-encapsulated, fiberglass mat to deal with exhaust heat. That was hell to get dry. Ended up taking it out of the wrap, coiling it up, and baking it in the kitchen oven.