flint54

Jeep part number 5200-3940 is a bolt-on resonator that replaces the cataclysmic perverter in the XJ/MJ for all export models. There's a mountain of them available in the Chrysler parts warehouse in Milwaukee. It takes a great deal of convincing to get any USA dealer to order one for you, but it can be done. However, at $80, there are cheaper alternatives.

Nice looking truck! I sure like that rear bumper. BTW, I have a full set of new OEM leaf spring bushings. I was going to replace mine, but ended up ordering a set of 2200# springs from Hell Creek Suspensions and they come with the bushings already installed. If you're interested, contact me offline.

I got the XJ plates and U bolts, but was surprised at how much lighter they are then those on my MJ. Plus, they don't have shock mounts. I'll go check the edge distance on my MJ plates and then will see if those holes can be enlarged to accept the 3" bolts. I've got a set of 2200# springs coming from HC and new 3# bolts with them.

So yesterday I actually sat down and -read- the FSM section pertaining to diff rebuild, and have to conclude the task is far more advanced than I'm qualified to perform - even if I had all the special tools called for. My buddy says, just slap a set of gears in and go but that's not how I work. So today I spent at the JY under a 2000 Cherokee Sport salvaging a 3.55 Chrysler 8.25 axle assembly and had it off and loaded up in less than an hour. Too bad it's an open diff. but couldn't find any posi's. It's going to take time getting it cleaned up and all the stuff ground off, and new perches welded on. Price was right at $90, and the cover had never come off until I opened it up. Very clean inside. I will convert to disc brakes before installing - better braking and easier to work on. I'll install the rear axle when ready, and just wait (and stay in 2WD) until I can afford to swap out the front. I also found a NP242J xfer case for another "rainy day" project but that's way downstream. You guys were right - swapping is the smart way to go. BTW, I need to find a pair of HD spring plates with shock mounts for the new larger 3" dia axle bolts. I don't think my old 2.625" plates will work.

Guys, I got more than, and less than, I hoped for. I don't need to hear about how to do a swap, I know that. I also don't need to hear about what vehicles are donors, I know that too. Yes, I'm quite sure I don't want 4.10's as this truck spends 90% of it's time at highway speeds. I'm not climbing rock walls, I'm only pulling an occasional trailer - not sure just how much strength I really have to have (but I do understand there's no such thing as too much) Don't need a Haynes, I have the Jeep FSM. Don't need to hear where to find a welder, they're plentiful, but I like to do things myself whenever possible (remembering the track bar). Not sure why the risks would really be that much different putting 150K mile gears in my axle than swapping in a 150K mile unit, I must have missed something. As I understand it, axle bearings are all about measuring, shims, and preload - doesn't sound too bad. I wonder if I were asking about re-gearing a D44 as opposed to a D35 if the answer would be same? I think I'll just let this project simmer for a few more months in the hopes that a D44 shows up within my reach and budget. I really would prefer to NOT keep the D35, just recognizing I may wait a long time for the right D44 to come along. In the past months of hunting I've found only one, and someone had already pilfered the gears! Thanks for all the feedback. BTW, I have yet to find an XJ/MJ/ZJ in the boneyards with < 150K - most are over 200K miles. I suspect the axles aren't the weak link for the average XJ that hasn't been modified from stock.

I see the direction this is heading, however here are some of the factors that come into play: Doing a rear swap now requires me to grind and reweld spring perches and I (don't have/am not) a welder. It also would require changing U bolts due to larger tubes if using the Chrysler unit. To me, one of the big D44 advantages is larger brakes the other swap options don't have. The front swap drives me back to the alignment shop. Yes, the D30/D35 units are plentiful but from a cost perspective it seems higher given the unit prices and the services I will need, compared to just buying the 3.55 differentials (JY) plus I don't have to work with control arms, springs, shocks, brakes, steering, etc. What would lean me towards swap for the rear is if I could find a unit with disc brakes, but I haven't found one yet. I'm willing to drive up to 100 miles for the right unit, but, as you probably know, shipping is crazy costly. My affordable ceiling for the whole swap is around $300. Beyond that I need to live with what I have. What am I overlooking?

Would like to do this cheaply, but just once. My local Jeep shop quoted me $850 labor and $600 parts to swap the ring and pinion in both diffs (D30 and D35), but I've located donor parts in the JY for <$100. Yes, Ive been reading here long enough to know that the D35 is weak and not worth working on, but I've not been able to find a local D44 to swap in. Plus, I'm not beating the h*ll out of this truck anyways. My mechanical abilities are good, and I have a FSM, although I've never done this particular job. My truck is 4.0 HO with AX15, and I'm looking fir a bit more pulling power without giving up too much highway use. Helpful opinions and advice are welcomed. Should I be leery of used gears (150K miles) if they look good? Should I plan to re-use my young (~80K miles) bearings? Thanks!

I've got a HO, and got it from ebay seller: "xtreme-fi". If I hadn't busted the cruise control cable plastic end fitting (where it connects to the TB), I would call it perfect. Sadly, those fittings aren't designed to be replaceable, gotta buy the whole cable. But, I'm going to attempt a mod to make it replaceable by slitting the top so the cable can be slipped out, just like on a bicycle brake cable.

Yes, I just bit and did this upgrade. What an obvious difference!! Subjective I know, but the improved throttle response is really enjoyable. Best <$100 bolt-on I can think of.

Ebay has a Comanche axle set, Dana 44 and Dana 30, both 3.54 ratio. ref: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... OTORS:1123 Given that shipping these things could cost a couple hundred dollars or more, is it worth buying (seller says must buy both) to have a bolt-in upgrade from my current 30/35 with 3.07? With 188k miles on them, perhaps better off to just find a 44 with 3.54 and then change the front ratio ring & pinion to match. Opinions?

:agree: Amen! My bumper looks pristine from the outside, but underneath indicates that the strongest layer is probably the paint. Better off, I think, is to mount a proper tow bar to the frame.

What a wonderful opportunity for a stroker crank!

Guess what I'm up to? Oh boy, me and my grinder are having a hot time tonight!! There's no room in there for a spot weld cutter, and several the spot welds were in the radius anyways. And the best part is, I only snapped off two of the ten flare retainer studs. Amazingly, the passenger side arch was eaten all to hell, but the drivers side arch is pristine. Go figure.

$160 bucks for a plastic box ?!?!?

RE: "You shouldn't need an alignment if the previous track bar was set at the correct length and you got the brackets in the right spot." The initial need for alignment had nothing to do with the track bar, which is original and fixed length, and, it was a tire shop that I had taken it to that messed up the bar installation.

Another lesson learned - again. Next time someone besides me works on my truck I'm going to double check their work. Needed an alignment, went to get one, guy said track bar bushing worn, looked worn to me too. So, it was either leave, get a bar, put it in, and come back, or let him replace it. All was well for about a month. Then I started hearing a random click, which I never could find. After the click turned into a Snap!, I started hunting. Sure enough, the bar attachment to the track bar bracket wasn't tight. On top of that, the SOB beat the thing in and mashed the zerk fitting - it never got greased. The cotter pin was half-a** installed. Disassembly determined the track bar bracket hole was all warbled out, so off to the JY for a replacement. Fun job replacing that bracket, but it's done right. I'm contemplating how I want to return the riunt bar and bracket to the alignment shop monkey. Any suggestions??

Thanks for the reference. That's for a 99 Wrangler, and is Borla #17236. Based on the differences between the 92 and the 99 gasket, I don't think it's compatible even though it looks good.

see title

Borla #17010 says for 87-90, and Borla #17020 says for 91-92. I'm so far unable to find info on the technical difference between the two. I have a 92, but found a #17010 locally. Any of you know the difference? Thanks!

RE: "a water pump gets weak and does not function properly over time even though it is circulating coolant." I have seen several water pumps with eroded impeller blades. Yes, they will still move water to a degree, but may no longer move the volume/rate to provide the necessary thermal exchange. On a ~20 year (or more) year old vehicle, it's pretty cheap insurance (and easy) to just replace the pump if at all suspect. A fluctuating temperature gauge could be several things, including a faulty gauge, a poor ground, a faulty sending unit, intermittent coolant flow, and probably several others that don't immediately come to mind. My first suspicion would not be the thermostat. Tom

May or may not be the right place for this query: I would like to locate a source for diamond plate bed rails and tailgate rail, similar to what DeeZee offers for more abundant truck models. Anyone know??

The down pipe on my original, never molested, exhaust has a very large dimple just below the manifold. Looks like it was smacked with a hammer. Puzzled, I went to the JY to find another and EVERY ONE has the same "feature". Any thoughts on why this apparent flow restriction exists? Any reason why I shouldn't try to drive a mandrel into it and make it round (other than the obvious getting it stuck)? Or should I just not care about this?

I wished that my fuel gauge went all the way to full for a couple years before it vexed me enough to solve it. Once I pulled the sending unit from the tank (of my 92) it was a stunningly simple adjustment. I regret not imaging it, but all you do is loosen a (very small) set screw, and ratchet the position of the float/rheostat unit, tighten and reinstall the unit, and voila, full gauge with full tank! Suggestion: put a few dabs of silicone sealant on the rubber O-ring to hold in position while you re-seat the sending unit's lock ring (with a spark-proof brass tool please). Tom

RE: "5500", what are the units?