mjeff87

Fawk 'em. I just deleted my entire account. I have most of my pics on a couple different hard drives, so I didn't lose anything, but ALL of my tech threads here, at NAXJA, and other places are jacked now. Along with thousands of other folks. For anyone looking for old tech in any of my threads......sorry. But I refuse to play PB's games.

Yes, this. It's MUCH easier to run the harness without the engine in the way. You also need to redo your fuel lines.....the 2.5 ones that attach to your TBI won't work with the fuel rail and return line on the 4.0. The 4.0 lines have QD's on them, but the 2.5's don't. I opted to splice in the 4.0 ends (cut out of a junkyard XJ) into the existing hard lines along the front framerail. Again, much easier to work on without the engine/tranny in the way. It's one big harness but it can be disconnected into 2 separate pieces on the passenger side at the ignition coil area. The headlight harness is also a separate harness that plugs into the driver side part of the main harness.

Very nice :cheers:

Wow. OP, do yourself a favor before you do anything else.....it won't cost you a dime to try. Disconnect your O2 sensor and drive it, and see if the problem goes away. If it does, replace the sensor and move on with life. I had the exact problem with my 2.5 and chased parts for weeks like you're doing, until one day it was sputtering and I disco'ed the O2 and the idle cleared up immediately. Plugged it back in and it fell on it's face. I replaced it and it was fine everafter.

Yeah Don, thanks! Even though it was the pens, I still think the whole thing is rigged. Regardless of who wins, best of 7 series seem to have to go at least 6 games, if not the whole 7. Well, except for Chicago this year, lol....

funny speedo cable story..... one day my MJ developed the weirdest random sound/clunk/thump coming from somewhere in the front end. I checked every suspension part and couldn't find a problem. This went on for a couple days, driving me crazy. It was coming from somewhere directly underneath the driverside floorboard, right around the fuseblock area. I kept looking, couldn't find a problem anywhere, until I accidentally bumped the speedo cable from underneath while shaking the bezeejus out of the control arms looking for the sound. It seems the cheezy little clip that attaches the cable housing the the control arm bolt (I think, I can't remember exactly where it bolted to) snapped. While in motion, the speedo cable doing it's spiral-ey thing inside the housing was causing the cable to "jump", and each time it did it smacked off the control arm causing the sound. I never would have found it had I not bumped it. One zip-tie later and the sound was gone. Just thought I'd share that little tidbit, in case anyone else ever experiences it.... Jeff

I extended mine and ran it up into the engine bay. I ziptied it to the C101 bracket.

It's not standalone, it's wired into the half of the harness that runs from the ECU (thru the firewall) to where it splits around the battery area. Or if you have a C101 it runs from there to the battery area. You can leave the other half of the harness intact (from the C100 {fuseblock} to where it connects at the battery area). You'll also need a new (auto) TPS with the trans pigtail.

I'm beginning to sense that..thanks Bonkers

I'm workin on it, lol I accidentally backed my wife's car into my KJ a couple weeks ago....and the KJ won. We're dropping her car off tomorrow to get estimated and repaired, so my fun money account is, ummm, on hold for a little bit. I'll know tomorrow how much I don't have anymore to spend on an MJ. Damn timing couldn't be any worse.

I sent the owner an e-mail asking for more info. I'm also trying to figure out a way that I can (buy it) and get it back down here to Richmond. Depending on the sellers response I might be able to take up parts needed and repair it there, drive it back down......

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/6082824139.html Just saw this on the Craig's today.....SOMEBODY jump on this quick. I'm reallllllly tempted to, but logistically I just can't right now. My loss is your gain Jeff

One of the best few dollars I ever spent on my MJ (aside from the dual diaphragm booster) was a braided stainless steel clutch line from AA. To hell with trying to contort a hard line into where it's supposed to go..... :yes:

The 4.0 I put in my old MJ (got it second hand in several pieces, lol) had about 2 psi at hot idle with 10/30, and on a good day had 25-30 under throttle. I ran 20/50 with a bottle of "restore" which got me about 15@idle and 45-50 driving. As far as I know it's still bombing around....

Good deal, glad you got it fixed. For those that haven't seen what the 2.5 tensioner looks like, or don't know how it functions, here's a shot of mine when I replaced it way back when. Like 89 says above, it self-adjusts via the little block underneath the face by the spring that pushes on it. The little block and the opposite face of the tensioner have teeth cut into them, which holds the block in the tensioned position. As the tensioner wears (and/or the chain starts to slacken) the block travels downward to keep tension on the chain. Once it reaches the end, that's it....no more tension can be applied. In my case, the block hit the end of travel, then the chain started digging a groove in the face of the tensioner (mine made a noise for quite awhile until I diagnosed and fixed it). Image Not Found Image Not Found

Y'all keep figuring out the issues with these new fangled Jeeps....I generally run about 10-15 years behind new models LOL. I swore when KJ's first came out that I'd never be caught dead in one, and now I own one. I said just about the same thing for the KL, but the more I see them around the more accepting I'm becoming of them. I'll probably look for one when I decide to move on from the Libby, but that shouldn't be for a good 5-7 years from now. By then all the problems should be figured out...at least a little better than "yeah, let's just delete the 3-1 downshift. No real need for THAT". :rotf: Sharp looking 'Hawk you gots there Bo...congrats!

check the pilot bearing too given the unsettling history of it all, I'd probably just replace it anyway while you're in there.

I agree with Eagle, the tensioner is probably shot. It is self-adjusting, to compensate for wear, but has a finite lifespan. Once it reaches the end of its adjustment range it's not providing the takeup in the chain that it's supposed to. You can replace the tensioner itself, but since you're in that far to replace it, it just makes sense to put a new timing set in as well. Especially with the miles that you have on yours.

I had the XJ rockers in my MJ (on my stock MJ bench floor brackets). I had to have the bases rocked almost the whole way backward to get in or out, because of the limited space between the seat bottom and the steering wheel. Once I got in and my leg under/across the wheel, I could then rock the base forward to a more comfortable seating position. It was kind of a PITA. The seat back also hit the back of the cab, too.

Not mine. I am very tempted to get it though (I really need to get back in the MJ game....) but I'm a bit short funded ATM (Christmas, Valentine's Day and my wife's birthday all within a 45 day window :fs1: ). Just saw it on CL and thought I'd pass it on. I *think* this thing has made a few rounds on CL, I swear I've seen it at least once before). It's a 2.5/auto, so it should have 4.56's in it. Plus comes with a 4.0 and tranny (probably a BA10/5). Good deal if anyone can use it. Jeff https://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/6004752379.html

It's about this time of year when I start chanting "Let's go PENS!" lol..... On the MJ front, I'm looking for a project truck. Close to me. And cheap. :rotf: The KJ is nice and all, but it's just not cutting it.

Mmmmm......DiNick's roast pork and rabe. Awesome sandwich. :drool:

If you are anywhere near southwestern PA, I have a spare 2.5 sitting in storage. You can have it for free if you can get it.... Jeff

Post #15 in this thread..... http://comancheclub.com/topic/19732-random-informative-picture-thread/

-pedal assembly (unless you keep existing and eliminate the clutch pedal) -floor shift assembly for the AW4 -TCU -engine side wiring harness from the '88, which includes the pigtail wiring for the TCU (and NSS) -TPS from the auto (or the whole TB), autos have a second wiring connection -kickdown cable and associated bracketry -speedometer cable, possibly (your existing may be too short) -trans crossmember, mounting plate and trans mount....take all of this with the trans -the entire TC shift assembly