HOrnbrod

Damn good idea Bob - I'll work on it. :cheers:

Gotcha! 8)

:popcorn:

I had a SmittyBilt tubular bumper on when I first got my MJ. Here's an old pic:

Popped out? Was there a cotter pin in the castle nut?

Yeah JT, the poor bastids were on their way to the Tyson chicken processing plant, so they were on the way out one way or another. :cry: But that's life..........

I had to go about 150 miles today to pick up some body parts for my daughters car. My ambient temp gauge read between 100*-104*, and this was my first big stress test on the electric fans. I was cruising south along I-65 and hit a parking lot. After 30+ minutes of crawling along at less than 5 MPH, with the A/C on and both fans whirling away, the temp never went above 210* on the gauge. The delay turned out to be a wrecked chicken truck sprawled across the highway. The critters that survived the rollover only made it about 200' before dying in the heat. Anyhow, I'm pleased with the fans. :cheers:

So why don't you use it as your avatar instead of that blue thing w. the little tires? :eek: :D :eek:

You gotta be quicker off the trigger Wildman-san. :chillin:

Ah yes, the cats be fightin'. Ignore the beyatches. I just nailed #3000 for ya Steph. :cheers:

I like the Silver Stars better. :cheers:

We've been holding the fort Eagle - Steph is movin' on briskly tonight. BTW, when did you get certified? Is there an exam? I thought you were just a grande olde pharte. :cheers:

Read much? :cheers:

BTW, the 91+ XJ LCA bolts are the same part number as the leaf spring bolts. :eek:

Chrysler Parts Direct has them, p/n 34202118, $4.66/ea.

Connector A where the harness connects to the cluster in the middle. But thinking about it some more, it would be easier to run a wire directly from the sender tip on the head to the temp gauge. As you know, the temp gauge has three screws that attach it to the cluster chassis and printed circuit foil. One is 12V, one is ground, and one is the variable signal from the sender. That's the one to connect your test wire to. You can figure it out by following the three foil traces attached to the meter screws, then verify it with your continuity checker. Be sure to have your original sender wire disconnected. This way you eliminate all the wiring and connectors from the sensor to the temp gauge. Stick the cluster back in with the new test wire, and see if the gauge indicates correctly. If it does, then there's a wiring problem between the sender and the gauge. Make sense?

That's not an adjustment, just a plastic post, part of the housing that the meter windings are wrapped around. In Chico's case I do not think there is anything wrong with his temp gauges since they are all reading approximately the same. I think he should try the new wire trick first: Can you run a clean new wire from the sensor directly to the gauge input (pin A1 on connector A)?

The temp gauge sending unit (back left side of the cylinder head), not the sender in the stat housing, carries the same part number for 87-92 MJ six cylinder gas engines, 53005309. The temp gauges also are identical; I have used 87-90 temp gauges in the HO clusters and vice versa. The gauges that are not interchangible between the two are the speedo, fuel, and tach gauges. The calibration resistances are straight from the FSM.

Chico-man, below is a pic of the back of the temp gauge with an arrow pointing toward the meter movement calibration resistor. Voltage drop across this resistor is what determines meter deflection. Unsolder one side of this resistor and accurately measure it's resistance. Should be about 80 ohms IIRC. Then substitute other resistors in about 5 ohms higher increments until your gauge reads just a bit higher than your laser thermometer reading at the sensor. Of course this is just a bandaid; your real problem is the wiring between the sensor and the gauge. Can you run a clean new wire from the sensor directly to the gauge input (pin A1 on connector A)? I'd try this first. Image Not Found

Remove the mast #2, then unscrew the nut #3 and it will drop into the fender. To get it out you do have to open up the fender splash shield. Image Not Found

A bit much on the negative caster looks like. :eek: :D

As far as the regulators themselves it's pure bolt-on. The hardest part was figuring out how to wire the dual switch on the drivers side and single switch on the passengers side. I used the OEM switch plates and switch connectors, and did not install power door locks. Also I made my own door and cross-body harnesses. I saved the wiring schematic and anyone who wants it can have it.

Try wearing a respirator when you do the yard work. People look at me like :nuts: when they pass by but I don't suffer later so :banana: I do wear a paper mask, but it doesn't do much. I'll try that. Thanks!

Yeah, must be something in the VA air. When I lived there, I'd start sneezing on the first day of spring and continue until the first frost arrived in the fall. Down here, the only time it bothers me is when I cut the grass, so I don't cut it much anymore. :cheers: Benadryl works best for me........

P/N 82201506. Check with the Taz-man. :cheers: