HOrnbrod

You can check the old ones easily now. I'm just curious if one or more was bad..

Glad you got it fixed Adam. Question: Did you check the solenoid coil resistance on each of the three solenoid coils on the AW4 harness connector at the transmission tunnel connector before pulling the pan and changing them out? I've never had the pleasure of changing them, but I occasionally check the ~12-15 ohms on each to make sure they are still within specs. Did you find an open coil?

Sorry Gatorgirl - your MJ is a Renix. Mopar didn't build them, thus no build sheets.

What did you do? Replace it? Crushed wires where the harness goes in under the cap? Replace he sync sensor?

Yes, I knew that about the casting sand. And by the time your "freeze" plug moves, the block and/or head is almost always cracked already. Found that out the hard way on a Volvo B18 engine.

Never had to replace one with the engine still in and the head mounted. Never want to either... So you used one of these for the rear head? The below is what I call an expansion freeze plug. Probably just terminology:

One of the surprises I saw was the "BAFP 130 Amp Alternator" option my truck had. Obviously wrong - no 130 alt was available for XJs/MJs at the time. 90A was the biggie.

Here's an excerpt: https://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/?page=22&tab=comments#comment-490644

No idea. Why don't you call PSC? I vaguely remember a post from long ago about the same problem with a PSC pump on a Jeep...

Yep, Saginaw Type 2 (TC series) pump. All XJs and MJs (and YJs, ZJs, TJs, etc.) used variations of this pump. It your replacement pump doesn't have the same dimensions as the TC pump, it ain't gonna work on the Jeep bracketry.

This post did. Your user name and avatar shows up.

That was it. I guess my Abobe Acrobat viewer was corrupted. Reinstalled it and it opens now. Thanks.

Thanks.

I tried and got some gibberish back and couldn't find any program to open it. What did you use?

I made it to get if off the bed side a bit - the extinguisher was too tall for a flush mount.

Yep, waaay back I worked in a Navy Radio Shop and we installed the comms gear in the HMMWVs for the Jarheads. I've been using nutserts ever since, like mounting my fire extinguisher in the bed.

It's bolted to the fiberglass front clip with a reinforcement bar and stand-off behind it. Very solid. That's a clip nut you show which could also work but nutsert are stronger. A nutsert (or rivet nut) looks like the below. To use a 1/4 x 20 threaded nutsert, you drill out the 1/4" existing bracket hole to 3/8", then use a tool to compress the 1/4x20 nutsert into the hole. I have a set of different sizes up to 1/2" and metric sizes too and use them quite a bit.

Got the Tru-cool LPD49201 aux cooler mounted today - it fits in there on top of the factory tranny cooler nicely. If anyone uses this cooler or similar, install 1/4 x 20 nutserts on the cooler mounting tabs. There's no way to get a nut on the mounting bolts that go through the hanger brackets w/o nutserts unless you rip out the radiator, radiator L-bracket, and condenser. With the nutserts you just line everything up and screw the bolts in. It ended up sitting ~1/2" in front of the condenser and there's plenty of grille room. Now to decide whether to plumb it in w. or w/o the radiator cooler........

^^ This. Good economical and popular way to replace your MJ shocks. The below link is what you have to do to make them work. I have a "new" pair of front JK Rubicon take-off shocks from our local Jeep dealer (less than six miles total on them) You can have for cheap if you want. https://comancheclub.com/topic/52091-installing-jk-wrangler-shocks/

The AW4 solenoids carried the same p/n's from 87-94. In 95 and up the p/n's were changed. But I'm sure you know that. If the solenoid coil resistance is the same for both and they will physically fit, I don't see why they shouldn't work. They both use 12V and applied grounds from the TCU to open and close.

You don't have a PDC - you have a Renix.

^^ That's fuse F10 that I mentioned above.

Check fuses F10 (40A, if it's there, might not be) and F5 (15A Ignition) in the PDC under the hood. One or the other, depending on your truck options, supplies the constant 12V to the starter relay. Just for grins, have you swapped the starter relay with one of the others in the PDC? Can you feel/hear the starter relay click when you turn the ignition to the start (crank) position?