HOrnbrod

Go ahead and use the stock controller, and mount it in the dash or door panel. It just pops into a rectangular hole about 2" x 1". You should also grab the wiring pigtail on the controller to make the wiring easier. I put them in my rig; if you want a wiring diagram shoot me an email address and I'll send it to you.

Only if you figure out the difference between "advise" and "advice" you dumb noob :roll: According to Eagle's psychological study post, which I think is generally correct, Sir Sam thinks of himself as competent. 8) I think he's very competent, especially with chickens. :cheers: And no IDXJ, you should not get bashed here if you're genuinely trying to help.

Could you tell me the actual diameter of the ZJ bar? I think I do have one mounted, but am not sure, it might be from an XJ Country model. If you don't have a micrometer, a pretty accurate way to measure is to squeeze an adjustable wrench over it then measure the wrench opening. Thanks!

The YJ yoke I had was 5/8" longer than my stock yoke, but like Dirty says, there are prolly variations of both. On the GM yoke, I am using one of these as I needed about 1" total driveshaft length when I did my lift, and this was a cheap way to do it. But my lift was small, and I have a longbed, so the u-joint operating angles were not bad. I guesstimate this slip yoke would probably bind on your application w/o careful grinding.

Anytime the NFC beats up on an AFC team it's saweeeeet! Especially the NFC East, the toughest conference in football. Steelers may have a chance next week though since they're playing in their own conference. :D

Yes, I see it. Those are just general statements unspecific to any vehicle make or model. It also states that pusher fans are less efficient than pullers. So why would you want a pusher? And where would you mount it on an XJ/MJ, especially if it has A/C? Out in front of the grille? :eek:

That looks like one of those egg-sucking dogs, and it's just waiting. You can never break them of that habit. :cheers: Couple of years ago we had a couple of female watch geese that dropped eggs all over the backyard. Man, they were good eggs and one egg made a HUGE omelet. :D They also kept all the riff-raff out; cats, dogs, coons, beavers, everything. But both of them ran off with some visiting Canadian geese that summer out back. Can't trust them Canucks with the women. :Canadaflag: :D

The factory gauges are crap Dirty (as you know). Cheap, inaccurate, mass produced, and only get worse with time. I calibrate these things, and I'm still amazed how far off they are, not only the temp gauge. As has been posted ad nauseum, the 4.0 runs best at 210-215*. Best performance, mileage, and reliability. The 195* stat combined with a healthy cooling system is still, and always will be, the best solution to overheating problems. A lower temp rated stat does nothing, except delay open loop operation, compounding problems. Before throwing pieces and parts and $$ on the cooling system, verify the actual temp at the gauge sensor first with a know accurate external thermometer. Then go from there.

Yeah, should settle out after miles CW, hopefully. But usually they settle out equally on each side, so the lean may still be there. Know you prolly don't haul big loads often, but if you do, take a measurement before and after on a big load; that'll tell you if there is a difference between the advertised load rating and reality.

X2 on the stat. The factory gauge tolerance is + or - 5% new; after 20 years it's good to have a 12% tolerance after the sensor or switch probe is calcified and corrosion has created additional resistance in the temp gauge circuit. If you have 210-215* at the gauge sensor (or switch) verified by a known accurate external infrared or laser thermometer, you're golden.

For an MJ? I doubt it. Got a link to their recommendation??

Yeah, MPG is definitely important, and getting more importanter every day. :D Current setup: 4.5L stroker w. AW-4 4.11 gearing 31" BFG MTs Correct speedo gear 15 around town, 18-20 highway. According to similar setups on the strokers forum, this is not too bad, a bit above average. Got all the parts, and next week I am swapping my old intake for the 1999+ curved runner unit, and adding a Unichip, then having it dyno tuned at Hesco. This has resulted in 2-3 more MPG for most w. 10% overall HP/torque numbers. We'll see.............

Never did say you called them MT springs Adam. I was just going by CW's "MT rated" post. I guess them best term is to call your springs is HD 4" lift springs? Probably a great product, but I prefer the factory spec metric ton springs. Just today I picked up a load of hardwood flooring from Lumber Liquidators 'cause the Commander wants to get rid of the carpeting. :headpop: It's due to be done I guess. 27 boxes @ 75# each, total 2025#. Measured at the rear flare lip before and after; it only dropped 1/2". Never knew I had a load back there.........

Sounds like a stock 4-leaf pack w. added arch for more lift with an overload AAL. Definitely not MT springs. The real MT springs gave me 2.5"-3" lift (equally on both sides) plus the added load capacity. And yeah, I use mine as a truck. :D Glad I got the ones I have.

Here's the same MT springs a little bit cheaper. No mods required either. :D http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_springs/jeep/comancheclub.html Pretty sure he got lift springs, not MT springs... The pic shows the 4+1 springs, and CW said he got the MT rated springs, so I ASSumed he got MT springs. The General Spring 4+1 MT springs are rated at o 1500 # rating o 130 - 275 spring rate, 9-5/8" arch o 26" x 31" x 5-leaf, 2-1/2" wide

Here's the same MT springs a little bit cheaper. No mods required either. :D http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_springs/jeep/comancheclub.html

The Aussie Ford Falcon is a muscle car, at or near the top of their Ford line. I wrecked one of their rental turbo versions hitting a big red roo a few years back near Adelaide, it didn't have the standard roo bar. The roo actually survived though. Anyhow mate, welcome aboard. :cheers:

Dunno Wahoo, but he definitely sounds like a marketeer. Kind of familiar w. Ellington. CT where the seller lives as in Rockville HS we used to go up there and kick their farm-boy butts in basketball regularly. Be nice if Eagle or CW could take the short drive and give an expert opinion. :cheers:

Must be a dumb-assed scam if he's paying the Fleabay listing fees over and over. :nuts:

It's baaaaaaaaaaack! WTF?? http://tinyurl.com/539yzd

Our steering columns are GM - Saginaw. There are plenty of writeups on the web regarding disassembly of these columns. Try a Google. :D Here's one: http://www.superchevy.com/tech/sucp_0707_tilt_steering_column/images.html

For the OME Shocks: Front w. 1"-3" lift: OME N35 (firm) or N35C (Comfort) (15.25"-23.75") Rear w. 1"-3" lift: OME N40L (15.6"-25.8") (Actually a ZJ shock) For higher lifts (3"-5"), the OME N35L will work up front but they don't make one long enough at this time for the MJ rear.

Yeah, that's him (or her). See that pink appendage in the mouth? They lay on the bottom a swing that thang to attract fish. Hooked it right behind there. Prolly trolled my lure right into the open mouth. WTF are the odds on that? Glad I could release it though w/o getting one of my appendages removed.......... :D

If the needle valve is stuck shut ain't nothing going to be flooded. But agree on the old school plug spark fire test first..........