HOrnbrod

According to my 91 parts manual the senders are the same for all 91 MJs, there is no differentiation between engines. Same goes for the pump, so it should work just fine. :cheers:

If it looks like a duck, swims like a duck and quacks like a duck, then it probably is a canard. :D

It's just a test port for checking fuel rail pressure. That's is it's only function in life.

I am as nervous as a Cardinal (or a Raven ) in a room full of long tailed cats! The Eagle is a big bada$$ bird and can take care of itself. :D Too many bird teams this year........

Wonderful. Got any pics?

I'm thinking of just doing just the vent louvers. :D Gotta have some black in there. You look at most of the new trucks coming out now? CHROME baby! It's BACK! :cheers:

This question: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13955&p=140652#p140652 Still would like to see some pics.

Some pics would be nice. :cheers:

Is the plug connector just laying there white w. 5-wires? Then that's it! :D

Yes, the plug will be there on your 91. The 91 clock was unique, so make sure you get your clock from a 91 XJ/MJ. Otherwise you will have to mod the plug wiring if you get a different year clock.

Didn't you ask this same question like last week? If you do not like the idea of the shift indicator sitting on the column, suggest you invest in a Dremel tool and carefully hack a slot to mount your existing indicator, then figure out a way to mount it in the new cluster as there are no mounting posts provided in the full gauge clusters. Good luck!

AAARG, forgot. Really nothing to see though except the rear track is wider now and the tire edges are equal in the flares. Seems to be better in the corners too. Regarding the flares, I parked next to a stock 95 XJ the other day and the difference in the front flares was very obvious. They are wider in the front than the 1994 and below flares, and should protect the body a little better. I think someone mentioned this before in a different thread, maybe TNT? Was it you Tim? If I run across a nice set I'll get them. :cheers:

Man, did you read some of the comments after this story? LOT of hate between Baltimore and Pittsburg. This "back at ya" from a Steelers fan was especially touching: "Blumpy, it's amazing you beat out 200 million other sperm cells; unless the rest of them were stuck in your Mom's beard." :rotfl2:

Man, I just don't get these threads. Planning a trip and arranging backup help along the route if ya break down? If you feel your junk isn't worthy, don't drive it. :nuts:

Parallel wire the hot red wire from the harness connector to both lights. They will be grounded by the housing bolt. Do both your yard lights have inline mercury switches? If so, be sure the hot wire from the connector is hooked to the switch input.

Correct, 91-95 MJ/XJ are two wire connectors.

I know you have been there Wade, but my Aussie mate Marcus has given me many ideas both from his great site and via emails. He's posted some of the stuff I've done on his site too. A lot of the stuff on his site is free too. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/

When we put the stroker in over four years ago, we steam cleaned the engine compartment and prepped/painted it. And the stroker don't leak, so it basically stays clean. :cheers: Waaaay too young to have a flocked up back like that Tim. Hope the memories were all worth it mate. But the disk degeneration might have happened no matter how you led your life, no? But still, hope the surgery helps you much more than you think it will. We all got to slow down sooner or later..... :D

The light connector will be hanging out of your cross-firewall harness where the circle is below:

It's my Unichip. The heatshield is all metal so it makes a good heat sink. :D

Use a drift punch to drive the center pin out of the rivets, then drill them out w. a 1/4" bit. And regulators up to and including the 1996 4-door XJs will work for you. Now's the time to go electric! :D

:agree: And since the radiator on the 2.5 is basically square, unlike the rectangular 4.0 rad, it will be much easier to mount an electric puller fan that will cover 80% or more of the radiator and provide good cooling. :cheers:

Offend? Hell no, you have posted some great advice and I defer to you on all these matters brdhntr. I am far from an expert and just pass on the way I have done things over the years strictly for myself. You are far more up to speed and more knowledgable since you do it for a living. Very much appreciate your responses. :cheers:

If it's chrome you're SOL, replating is the only cure I know. But if it's stainless, you can take out swirls with a drill ragwheel and some rouge jewelers compound. It will polish it up like new, then clearcoat with poly. NOT! Couldn't afford it! And I'd go bananas with all the wierdos out there. :D But you're not one of them Wade2. :yes: We have 12 beautiful hectares of waterfront land on the wife's home island of Guimaras in the Philippines. Soon as the two daughters get self-sufficient (PLEASE SOON!) that's when we'll be heading west - very west. With the MJ. :cheers:

:agree: I'd use a good water based paint stripper; it will not harm chrome or stainless. Unfortunately it works best at temps higher than 70 degrees and not too much of that around this time of the year. Steel wool is NOT recommended as even 0000 wool will leave scratches. Finish off with a few light coats of gloss polyurethane on the stainless. Oh, and stick a magnet on the rails to be sure if it's stainless or not.