HOrnbrod

The special track bar retainer nut (p/n 11506007) is available from the dealer or an online parts source like ChryslerPartsDirect.com for about $4. HERE'S where I got my Metric Tonne springs (didn'y know Hellcreek Tom at the time :D ). They ride just slightly harder than stock and also gave me about 2-1/2" lift. The price may or may not still be the same.

Good for you Cracker. Thanks for sharing that. :nuts:

Like what?

Yeah, he/she will fit right in, 'specially in central 'Bama. :D But we also have several members right here on the forum who write in a similar vernacular. :roll:

I had that color on my now deceased 96 XJ and liked it okay, but don't care for it on an MJ. But like the others, I think it's a good color to compliment your interior.

Ans make sure they are HUBCENTRIC, machined to fit the Jeep wheel hub so all the weight is not supported by the studs alone. Like the SpiderTrax brand.

Read this thread in NAXJA: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18257&highlight=security+system

Yeah, blind hope, that's what it is. Ain't gonna happen Pete-man. Sooner or later someone's gotta get some teeth. 'Till the next time. :popcorn:

What wheels, width, and BS? Standard steelies?

Taz, know of any link or docs to this Spidertrax spacer failure? I'm all for safety, and of course you know I'm not doubting you mate. :cheers:

:agree: Can't believe I'm agreeing w. SW2 on something though. :cheers:

That's John Doe's number. Or maybe Chico Doe's now, Si?? :rotfl2:

Yeah I saw it - ASSumed he was referring to his MJ (shouldn't ASSume I know :doh:) - maybe we'll find out later which rig he's talking about. :D

Who knows Dave. I thought this was an MJ forum. :huh???:

If you rub the sway bar link w. 31" tires somethings wrong. I'm thinking you might be rubbing the lower control arm (LCA) at full turn, si?

Guess you mean the steering knuckle, si? Image Not Found

Man, that Griffon looks like barf city.

You mean the 2WD rotor/hub assembly? $120/ea?

No way that I can think of. If you put a 50 ohm resistor in series with the sender output, it will just lower the gauge sensitivity, i.e. FULL will prolly indicate 3/4 tank. If you put resistance in parallel with the pot, it will just lower the overall pot resistance so that won't work either. You might be able to tinker with the value of the resistor across the fuel gauge meter movement, but I wouldn't, unless you had a decade resistance box and could set it up for a bench test w. the sender. So outside of changing out the pot itself, you'll probably have to live with it, unless you can fit the XJ sender to the TJ tank. :D

Hey SW2, like everyone says, we all go thru our MJ dead zones for different reasons. Too hot, too cold; the weather plays an important part of the MJ motivation for moi for most of the year. Bit it's coming summer now, the two girls are just home from college, and while I'm glad to see them and hear them b*@$£ and complain about their arduous life events, it gets tiring quickly then the inevitable never-ending female drama soon starts. To escape, working on the MJ (#1) or jumping in the boat goin' fishing with my buddy Gus the Cocker Spaniel (#2) is the best dayem therapy there is. You're not there yet with your babies, but it creeps up on ya fast. Anyhow, use the MJ (or your TJ if you must :D ) to escape for awhile from all the other crap that piles up and you really have no control over, like possible impending layoffs, money shortages, the freeking economy, or whatever bugs ya. :smart:

Roger that. I was involved in the early development of these as well as some other group members. They are solid units now: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5241&hilit=tow+hooks

The pins are in good shape as I removed both calipers a short time ago to lube everything up w. brake grease trying to get rid of the squealing. One last question: can I get away with just bleeding the fronts after I get everything back together or do the standard RR, LR, RF, LF bleeding sequence? Pretty sure I know the answer to this one, but I'm a lazy bastid. :D

Naw, never touched the spindle nuts - didn't remove the rotor. The local O'reilly's has new Wagner calipers ($51/ea) that come with new pads too. Just ordered a L and R. I'll also get the rotors turned and replace the two original front caliper hoses. That should cover it. :D

Yes, I'm going to do both sides, but the wheel turns so hard after I did the left side I wanted to wait until I found out if this might be normal. I also noticed that when I used the C-clamp to compress the caliper it was much harder than normal to push in. The rotors are only six months old, so I figured I might get by w/o replacing them. They are kind of expensive for the 2WDs. :eek:

I am still plaqued with a squeaking brake on the right front. I got a set of new pads and put them on the right front wheel, and after I got the caliper bolted back on I couldn't rotate the rotor. If I back off the bottom caliper bolt slightly, the rotor will turn as usual, slightly rubbing on the new pads. I put the wheel back on and ran it around the block; the brakes seemed to work fine but when I snug the bottom bolt back up I can barely rotate the wheel. I haven't done the other side yet. Is it normal for some new pads to make the wheel so tight or will the pads eventually "seat in"? I've changed pads on my 2WD many times before and never had this problem. Oh, and the brake still squeaks, but not as badly. Bad caliper maybe?