HOrnbrod

I've always wanted city lights since I converted to H4 head lamps; had them in my old Benz's and always liked them. But my Hella H4 housings had no provision for them, and even if I wanted to buy new housings you can't get them anymore w. city lights, except for the Autopal housings, which I didn't want. I found these city light adapters on Ebay for $15 that work with all H4 bulbs, and thought I'd give them a try. Installation is cake. The city light holder is clamped firmly between the Hella housing and H4 bulb by the wire springs, and sits in the three slots. The H4 bulb and gasket even have two little holes to thread the wire out of the housing. Smoke test. Near dusk pic No readjustment of the headlamps is necessary. I wired them to come on with the non-flashing parking lights, then go off when the headlights come on. This is done by tapping the white city light hot wire into the parking light hot wire, then tapping the city light black ground wire into the headlight low beam hot wire. This provides a false ground (double positive) to the city lights, turning them off when the headlights come on. They can also be wired as additional turn signals or ignition switched daytime running lights. I used the amber bulbs, but most any color is available.

All the research I did on MJ rear sway bars was before I added the new metric ton springs. I haul around the big old Leer camper shell, and the increased body roll was evident sliding around corners with it on. After adding the MT springs and leveling everything up, the oversteer did increase a bit as Eagle states, but it was a good predictable oversteer and much easier to control when deliberately going into a power slide. The bigger ZJ sway up front, stiffer WJ LCAs, and other ZJ suspension parts helped a lot too. And combined w. the quick ratio ZJ steering box, this thing handles really really good w. my modest 3" lift. Not a sports car by any means, but pretty damn good for a p/u truck. :cheers:

PST is the only company I found that makes a rear sway bar for our MJs. Unfortunately it's only for SWB models because of the differences in the shock mounts. See this link: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2355&p=156785&hilit=rear+sway+bar#p156785 And the 95-96 booster/master swap was a direct bolt-in for my 91 (except for bending new master-to-combo valve lines). The booster arm was correct w. no modifications to the pedal assembly (AW4).

Post a pic of the part(s) you need.

I prefer the OEM lug nuts for two reasons. One Eagle has already mentioned - RUST - and the bevel angle is correct for proper seating on the standard Jeep wheels, steel or alloy. I had a set of solid Gorilla nuts supposedly made for Jeep wheels, but the bevel was not the same and they dug down into the wheel holes eventually. Ebay usually has "NEW" take-off OEM Jeep nuts listed for great prices.

If your MJ/XJ did not come with factory fog lights, there will be no fog light relay(s). At least I haven't seen any yet. The output from the dash foglight switch ends at the 10-pin connector in the engine bay, left front. I had to pick up the ground applied by the switch there, then add my relays and wire out to my new fog lights. I can send you a wiring diagram via email if you like.

Great eatins' for the coyotes and feral dogs too. :eek:

Sounds good - get your sheite back together first. Good conversation. Over and out.

No, was not worth it. But I wanted to try. Sounds like it's stroker time for you now. :thumbsup:

K, looks good. I had a few minor problems mounting the fuel lines under the intake; used a modded double stock bracket for the pressure and return lines. Then clearance from the flex fuel lines coming up to the rail was tight in front also, and did a work-around for that to that worked out well. Can't be too careful w. the fuel lines. :eek: Your motor running yet?

Oh, and BTW JeepcoMJ, got any pics of your manifold install? Sure would like to see them. Or did I miss them in a previous post?

While I do not give a dayem if you disagree, and you COULD NOT mount the p/s pump with the old bracketry, I DID, and w/o touching the new intake manifold. And why do you think everyone is referring to you when it comes to mis-information? I WAS NOT, and I hate using CAPS as you do constantly. But, since you ask, I do have some pics how it can be done; a major PITA, required some machining and was not worth the effort. But I ran it for a few months w. no problems until I found the rest of the stuff I needed to go along with my recently installed ZJ steering box; the much better 96+ pump bracketry, idler pulley, and a new WJ 04 pump for it's increased pressure to compliment the ZJ box. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Nope, can't watch any more of this crap Rob. Already kicked the dog and flung the cat. :D (not really). Hope your email gets heeded by these freaks. :nuts:

Fixed it, UB right, IB wrong. That's what I meant but obviously didn't type. :oops: Gotta do better checking before I post. Be interesting to see what the angles are left and right on the ball joint flats using an angle finder.........

What freekin' morons. That engine bay looked pretty good before the stupidos started. And a Laredo XJ too. Sad.............

Sounds like the caster is definitely set differently on the front right and left sides if I'm reading this correctly. Caster is set by the length of the lower control arm. If the left LCA is longer than the right LCA, either by adjustment or shims, the left front wheel will be more forward. Were adjustable LCA's part of your lift?

Lot's of NQR (Not Quite Right) info on this thread. :D See these two links: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387 and http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6355

He should not Paul. I got some stuff from him quite awhile ago, and the price was very reasonable. :cheers:

I am keeping the rear prop valve, but who knows how long it's going to last? So far so good though. I'm getting ready to mod it though by adding an adjustment sleeve on the new rod I put on, like a tie rod sleeve so I can zero it in. Having a hard time finding a 1/4"x28 LH die though. You don't happen to have one I could "borrow" do ya Bob? :cheers: And thanks for the link Bob. I have heard of these folks and they do super work.

Good job Jim. I could not find this either, and am also bookmarking this link if and when the time comes to ditch my rear prop valve. :cheers:

XJ fuel sending units will not swap into an MJ and vice-versa. They are kind of like mirror images of each other, and the blockage you are experiencing is the fuel tank baffle plate.

Just shoot Tom a PM Rob. He's a member here, Hellcreek. Good guy.

What? Swapped from what into what? Year, model, etc. for both.

I've always called these spring nuts. Fastenal has a good assortment of them.

Yep - you're right, my bad. I even have the ZJ V8 tierod on mine. :doh: Pretty sure the draglinks are the same though.