HOrnbrod

Before you do that do this: It sounds like a bad solenoid or two. There are three of them inside and they are easy to change by pulling the pan. They can be checked at the TCU connector with an ohmeter. Each should read 11-15 ohms. When they go bad they usually short out causing all kinds of shifting problems. And while you have the TCU disconnected, take it for a drive and see if you can shift through the gears normally using the shifter. If you can, it's normally a TCU problem of the above mentioned soienoids that the TCU controls. :cheers:

NOT. :D Really doesn't do much good anyhow Correy. You can calibrate all the gauges perfectly on the bench, then install the cluster and everything will still be off because of connector corrosion, old or defective sensors that putting out the wrong resistances and supplying fubar voltages to the meter, sticky meter movement, and a lot of other reasons. Calibration works well in a perfect world, but who has a perfect twenty year old or so MJ? :D

Okay, I'm dragging this up yet once more because I FINALLY GOT THE DAMN THING FIXED!! YAAAA! I'm gonna tell you all what it was in the hopes that it will save my 2WD MJ brothers the aggravation I've gone through tracking down the damn brake squeal. :fs1: First off, the inboard and outboard front disk brake pads LOOK identical, but they are not. The inboard pad has the smaller pad liner, about 3/8" difference in length. BUT they will fit on either way. The last brake pad set I got had three outboard pads and one inboard. I missed it and stuck the two inboard pads on the right front wheel. The problem occurs when you mount up the caliper after fitting the pads and anti-rattle clips (more on these later). When you tighten down the two slide pins that the caliper rides on, the top pin bottoms out just enough to C#*@ the caliper so that it will not ride squarely on the caliper bracket sliding surfaces, thus creating squeal. It bottomed out because I had two of the longer outboard pads on and the extra material on the inboard pad causes the caliper pin to bottom out. Of course, there's nothing in the FSM telling you this, just a fuzzy picture that shows the material difference between the inboard and outboard shoes. Second problem was the anti-rattle clips. They are shaped like an elongated "C". The open part of the "C" must face AWAY from the rotor, otherwise the pad will rattle around in the caliper. Of course, these clips will go on 180 degrees out too with the open part of the "C" facing TOWARD the rotor (I installed one of them on each side this way) which causes even more squeal. :fs1: The FSM does say to install the bottom clip with the open end facing away from the rotor, but says nothing about the top clip. Naturally I put them in backwards. :wall: The cause of the squeal was painfully obvious when I pulled everything down to change out the pads yet again with some new ceramic pads. There were bright shiny spots on the caliper and caliper bracket sliding surfaces. Luckily there was no permanent damage done though. Anyhow, hope this helps y'all next time you change front pads on your 2WD. :cheers:

Only reason I have access to lots of test equipment is that I got most of the stuff at a gov auction for about $10 many years ago. :D

Sort of. A basic function generator w. a variable square wave frequency at a fixed amplitude output is normally used to calibrate tachometers.

Leer MJ longbed cap. Still trying to figure a way to adapt an XJ or Grand rack to the top contours for the canoe. The top ribs get in the way. Wish it were flat on top.......

Alum 1-row w. hi-flow water pump. Best way I could cool my stroker. 3-rows suck; the small passages clog easily and restrict flow. :cheers:

I'll drink to that Pete. :cheers: Great guy.

I really don't understand what you are doing w. the multimeter checking voltage? If you are looking for a partial short causing current draw, the best way to do it is to use your multimeter on the 10 AMP scale. Most all decent multimeters have a 10AMP scale; you have to plug in the test leads to the COMMON (ground) and 10A meter jacks. Hook up the multimeter is series with the disconnected NEG cable and the battery NEG terminal, then check for a amp reading w. the key OFF. If you are getting an amp reading, start pulling the fuses one by one until you lose the amp draw. And yes, the additional ground cable to the frame is okay. :cheers:

HO only. These alternators are regulated by the ECU.

It's pretty easy. I rebuilt the used 96 XJ master before I installed it a few years ago. The only "specialized" tool I needed was a pair of snap ring pliers for this one, not sure about the WJ master. The main thing is to clean it real well after disassembly with brake fluid to get all the crud and possible rubber bits out of the piston passages, blow it out w. low pressure air, and lube well again with brake fluid all the rubber parts before assembly. And of course, bench bleed before installing. This article will help: http://autorepair.about.com/od/brakerelateddiyjobs/l/aa091804e.htm

If it's just spitting fluid out the front brake line port it has to be internal to the master cylinder, but very odd two in a row have the same symptom. Pumping okay on the rear brake line port? Combo valve clogged? :hmm: Maybe it would be a good idea to pull the piston and look for the obvious, and throw a rebuild kit on it?

Yes, the temp gauge from a non-Renix cluster will work. The only gauges not interchangable are the tach, speedo, fuel gauges.

It's been done, as well as Benz, Cumins, and other diesel swaps into XJs. Check out this link and browse around. :D http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/

Actually sometimes they don't last for life. Sometimes because of constantly filling your gas tank all the way to the top, fuel will flow into the canister thru the gas tank return line saturating the charcoal. There is a vacuum operated built-in purge valve that is supposed to prevent this, but the fuel will gum it up over time. This can cause excess fuel tank pressure, a gas smell in the cab, and of course high HC readings on your smog test. Most emissions systems have a separate purge valve you can replace (the ZJs do), but you have to replace the whole canister in our rigs. I replaced my canister awhile back because of the gas smell, and it took care of it.

Different part numbers, so I ASSume they are different. Also edited my post above. :cheers:

What you need Joe is p/n 53009641 (superseded by part number 53030500). Same all 4.0 and 2.5 Jeeps 1991-1996. Here's one: http://www.clearlyauto.com/catalog/1993/Jeep/Wrangler/4-150-2.5L/Fuel-Emission/Emission-Parts About halfway down the page. Here's another on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-CP3045-Canister/dp/B001DC9ZA0

Err, the Plymouth Volaré didn't debut until the 1976. That 62 model is very rare - you should grab it. :D Sure you don't mean a Plymouth Valiant? Now, those were really ugly..............

Venting, whining, same thing. Deal with it or fix it.

Yep. EDIT: Forget Cornell. Their bubble has burst. Too much KY talent, height, athleticism, speed, and especially D. Live by the three; die by the three......

Agree w. all the above, as well as replacing all the negative mains cables too. Fusible links are slow reacting, and usually before they toast all the more sensitive electronics go first on a polarity reversal, i.e. meter movements, relay coils, sensors, and the ECU. I'd much rather have a current surge than a massive polarity reversal; much less damage. Don't envy you mate. :(

Wow - thanks for sharing that Rob. I sure would have liked to meet the old gent and yak-yak for a couple of days over several beers just to learn. He passed away in the saddle so to speak, doing what he loved. RIP mate. May we all be so fortunate. :cheers:

Sure was. Cornell is kicking Kentucky @$$ at the moment too. Damn, I'm likin N. Iowa, Cornell, St. Marys, and Butler more and more. :cheers:

Sorry aemsee - they're history now - courtesy of Butler. :eek: The #1 seeds are dropping like flies................

This thread has deteriorated into the ridiculous. Sounds like reruns of the great SNL routine The Whiners. :nuts: