HOrnbrod

That's a point; good feature on the Renix. But the HO computer does that now once it "learns" the settings and compensates. If it's a built stroker and out of the computer's range and still pings, bigger injectors with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator does the trick.

You are correct, not related. :cheers:

To open = CW. Opposite from a normal valve.

Whaaaa? Please elaborate. :huh???:

This is what I read: 1987 Jeep Comanche Radiator 1987 Jeep Comanche Radiator RADIATOR, ALUM (31 x 11-1/8 x 1) - 1 Rows. --PLASTIC, 10 lbs, Engineered for superior quality and exact fit. Limited Lifetime warranty. It's a cheap "offshore" alum one core w. plastic side tanks.

Damn Rob, in that pic you look just like a younger Freddie Roach, the best trainer in boxing and the owner of the Wild Card Gym in Hollywood, CA. Currently trains Manny Pacquiao, Amir Khan, and has trained 27 world champions to date. :cheers: Image Not Found

Thanks for the uh, comment. :nuts:

Okay - got it. Don't need the 1/2" size for my rig though. Gracias. :wrench:

Nor have I. Hope I never do. Mine My plastic q-disco kit is getting a bit chewed up, and I'm going to get some metal ones. This link shows a 4-piece aluminum kit, specs state 1/4" - 3/8". So it has the 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". What's the 4th size?

I don't understand what you are asking Jim. When changing out a radiator you disconnect the supply and return tranny lines using the collar tool, unscrew the upper and lower fitting adapters and screw them onto the new rad, then plug the q-disco fittings back on the new radiator. Why are you cutting hoses?

This is true. I kept the old washer tank with this setup with no touchy-feely for awhile until I figured how to mount the newer tank inside the fender well. :cheers:

Since there's a wire on it, one only?, it probably acts like an adjustable MAP sensor, i.e. varies the output voltage to the ECU depending on the MAP vacuum generated from the intake manifold. It's most likely set up to lean out the A/F mixture slightly and provide better fuel economy. But I would not use it unless I had an A/F meter hooked up to monitor the mixture across the RPM range.

I agree - JB Weld won't hold for long. I'd get it brazed or if you have a torch, silver solder it. Either way will work and last.

Slap in a 1997+ "inside the fender" washer bottle.

Yep, Rob was right, this month was easy. The bed is so well designed and functional it would look good on any MJ. Storage compartments, spare carrier, and nice lines. What I'd like to know is did Full Circle Performance & Offroad build to your specs, or did you just let them fly with it? :cheers:

I wonder what the city's liability responsibility would be if you had been seriously injured or worse helping them out? Or did they make the "helpers" sign a waiver? We get heavy weather regularly here and always help our neighbors out or vice versa, but not at the city's request. Seems like the city could get itself into deep legal kimchi making a request like that w/o compensation.

1987-1990 Image Not Found 1986 Image Not Found

Ignore the above. :shake: W/o pics and/or knowing the history or location of the truck that would be tough to guesstimate mate. Do a search and look for similar model/year/condition Comanches and see what they are going for: http://www.allofcraigs.com/2009/08/search-all-of-craigslist.html?cof=FORID:11&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&newwindow=1&safe=active&q=jeep+comanche&cx=partner-pub-9413604915893153:o8xsd8d7h7s&as_oq=inurl:ctd%20cto&sa=Search&as_q=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&as_qdr=a&as_epq=&as_eq=#2246

Depending on the length of the struts, this PDF might help: http://www.redlinetuning.com/manuals/QL-JEEP_CHEROKEE_86-01-101.pdf

Are you throwing any codes?

When you mentioned this happened on your 99, I remembered there are a couple of TSBs floating around dealing with injector heat soak on 1999 and above intake manifolds causing hard starting and rough idle when hot. The "cure" is an intake manifold heat shield or a wrap around the affected injector, usually #3. I don't remember the TSP number, but the heat shield is available for $3 from your friendly Jeep dealer. The part number is CBXCB060. I put one on when I installed my 2001 intake manifold.

1. Don't move there unless you have too. But since you're asking, ASSume that's not an option. 2. Don't drive any older vehicle (like an MJ w. poor factory rust protection) you plan on keeping for a long time in the winter. Park it. 3. Invest in a disposable winter beater vehicle. 4. Don't move there.

This was "skyjacked" from a COPS episode.

:thumbsup: They'll work mo betta now.

The two rear ebrake cables (from rear wheel to turnbuckle bracket) are the same length for both LWB and SWB MJs. The front ebrake cable (from turnbuckle to foot pedal) is longer on the LWB than the SWB. If you used the LWB front cable on a SWB you would have to move the turnbuckle bracket assembly toward the rear, and I don't think there's enough room to do that.