HOrnbrod

No, you have to slot them yourself. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the flat, then slot with a hacksaw. Takes about 10 minutes. You can see the slot in my pic.

here among other places: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Brake-Clevis-for-Ford-Explorer-and-Wilwood,37008.html

http://www.enginepartsstore.com/servlet/Detail?no=1013

Trac-Lok D35 carrier Jim? If so, might be only needing a new clutch pack install.

AAARG. Figured the NSS signal was the only ECU difference. Hope I never have this problem, and I bleed for ya mate. Hope the "new" ...396 ECU does it for you, but I have doubts now. If you bring it to Hesco (assume that's who you mean), first thing they will probably do is put her on the dyno and run A/F curves vs. HP/torque curves and look to see at what RPM all turns to crap. I know you have looked at the plugs, but what you should have in there IMHO is the old school solid copper core Champion plugs, Champion RC12LYC. I have always used these in my I6 Jeeps, experimented with many others, but they always worked the best. I use the same in plugs in the stroker, although two heat ranges lower.

Got it. ASSuME the threaded hole goes all the way through the axle tube, so it can also be used as a vent w. the correct adapter?

Thanks Jeff, that helps a lot. The vent fitting on mine is the plastic piece with a nipple pressed into the circled hole. Is that a pipe plug in the hole on your axle? When I get the parts I'll do what you did.

Thanks jeepcoma. Do you happen to remember what tap size you used? I'm guessing 1/8 NPT? :cheers:

Yeah. Giants management threatened to fire their head coach Tom Coughlin and the players started playing like you said. He's the most underrated head coach in the NFL. And one of the best.

Hmmm. I cross the p/n from the 86-89 manual (J3187999) for the D44 and get this: The one that's in there now is plastic, pressed in. Don't know if it's original or not. Checked again. The metal threaded one is the old design. It was superseded by this plastic one: I think I'll get the metal one. Gotta seal a lot better than the plastic POS. :D

I have a 1988 D44 rear axle installed. Is the vent fitting for this axle that the vacuum tube connects to threaded into the left axle tube hole or is it a press fit? I see two types on Team Cherokee's site. :hmm:

Until you swap in the correct ECU you can't rule out a bad ECU, as you know Tom. Either the 56027396 (w/o RFI) or 56027418 (w/RFI) is correct for your 92 I6 manual trans, according to my manual. Compare the pin differences on the 60-pin connector between the auto and manual tranny ECUs using your FSM and see if something jumps out. Rather than rebuilding your existing one, I'd rather try a used one for less $$ to see first if it cures the problem or does nothing. There are some on Ebay. Seems like you have eliminated everything else............

I would definitely find an alternate way to mount the aux fan besides the push-though fasteners. It doesn't take much rubbing on the tin foil radiator core to wear through it. Can't you put in a regulation 10-blade aux fan from a 97+ XJ? It'll probably pull as much if not more air through than the Flexolite and will bolt in and last forever.

I think both the AFC and NFC games were two of the best playoff games I've ever seen. Too bad for the Harbaugh brothers, they are both great coaches, and they will be there in the future. But both my teams won, and it should be a hell of a Super Bowl. Sort of like a Red Sox / Yankees World Series of football. I have to go with the Giants in this one; their offense and defense are peaking and not even Brady and company will be able to score enough to win. The Giants D will see to that. I only wish they were playing in Foxborough though instead of Indianapolis. The Giants can't lose on the road lately. :D

PML cast aluminum, $25 at a yard sale. Keeps the diff cooler and has a drain - all I need. :D Image Not Found

How much lift on it? Is the axle centered between the fender wells? If not could cause the unequal bushing engagement situation in the LCAs. Do you have an adjustable track bar installed?

Well, I'm stumped too. :dunno: I did this mod with absolutely zero problems, as well as many many others over on the stroker forum. It improved the idle immensely and it never missed under load. About 1K miles after, I hard-wired in a Unichip and then had it tuned and dynoed at Hesco. On the way home it skipped a couple of times under load (like the coil was unplugged momentarily) on long grades at about 2500 RPM. Brought it back to Hesco and they set the timing curve back a bit for that RPM range and haven't had a skip problem since. I did notice that after the intake manifold was installed and I disconnected the battery to do some electrical work, the ECU "learning curve" sometimes took up to 50 miles, longer than it used to. It never skipped, but the idle was low and it would stall at a stop at times. But after 40-50 miles or so, all was well. I'm suspecting your ECU now. What's the number on it? I'd also ask this question over on the stroker forum - someone may have experienced similar problems after the intake swap.

In most all countries if you are military or work for the military and are assigned there, there is a Status of Forces Agreement (SOFA) in place to allow US vehicle registration no matter what the standard equipment on the vehicle is. The only exception I'm aware of is Japan.

Besides the D35 / D44 axle spline and thickness differences, the left and right axles between the two diffs are of different lengths too.

Export (Euro) tail lamps were available for the XJ and YJ, but were never manufactured by the factory for the MJ.

:redX: Your link didn't work - fixed it: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/window-reflections-can-melt-vinyl-siding Interesting article.

Bummer. In that case I'd ohm out the AW4 solenoids, especially the torque converter lockup one. Also easy to do, disconnect the white connector of the cable that goes to the tranny at the right rear engine compartment above the bell housing. Check each pin to ground; readings for all pins should be right around 14 ohms.

Yep, the ohm check of the primary and secondary windings is really only good if one of the windings is open. It does nothing to check if the internal dielectric material is shorted under load. You need a good old coil tester machine for that. Especially with the modern coils with higher step-up voltage ratings. If you carry any spare parts, always carry a spare coil. :cheers:

The AW4 isn't the most efficient auto tranny; it typically causes the majority of 20%-30% drive train power loss. I've had several dyno runs and at the average, about 25%. But your rig does sound a bit anemic Remi. Is the tranny down shifting normally on grades? What is the RPM when it "it maxes out at 60mph on long grades"? It could be something as simple as a Throttle Valve (TV) cable adjustment. I'd check this first - it only takes a minute and easy to do. They are almost always AFU. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32158&hilit=tv+cable

Most sensors (including the O2 sensor) use stainless steel wires in the harness for the lowest resistance and better conductivity. This can make it a little difficult to get a good solder joint using ordinary rosin core solder when splicing these wires. It's best to use an acid based flux if you're going to solder the harness wires. Even better to use a high quality crimp connector with the proper crimp tool. If you have just taped them together, this is most likely your problem because the computer probably isn't seeing the signals from the O2 or knock sensors and you are staying in closed loop.