HOrnbrod

Dry Lube is good for shielded cables. That's what it's made for. I use it for the hood release cable on the MJ, and for all the cables on the bikes. It's not the best lube for a sliding piece of glass through a felt channel. IF the channels are in good shape, dry powdered graphite powder, as used in lock cylinders, applied to the channels works best. With tinted windows especially because it's completely non-gumming. But the MJ window glass channels are not usually in good shape on our junk. Finding a stock replacement channel or substitute like Pete did is the best option. Especially if you have power windows. :cheers:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1180000&parttype=823&a=FRc1180000k683371

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14684&hilit=alternator+regulator

Get longer sway bar links. The stock XJ links from the 93 models and up are 1.5" longer than the ones you have now. That will move your sway bar up and away from the coil springs. And if your track bar ends and mounting holes don't clunk when testing, you don't need to invest in an adjustable track bar with a 2" lift.

This is true. ASSumed it was metal. Note to self: Read entire post before posting.

Strange. The metal is new clean metal, no corrosion, and I cleaned it well with POR-15 solvent before applying. I'm thinking the gas fumes still present in the tank might be causing it not to cure. :dunno:

I guess this is tech. :dunno: I don't have a lot of experience with POR-15. I applied a thin coat of it on the bike gas tank fill inner neck where I had a Monza gas cap brazed on. I left the cap open and the tank has no fuel in it. This was four days ago, and the POR-15 is still tacky, hardly drying out at all. Is this normal for this stuff?

Whenever someone posts a question like "what color should I......blah" or similar, you get a bunch of crap opinions. Unless you're insecure and can't make a decision, just do as you want, it's your rig, who cares what others think. Do what's right for you, don't ask, because you will get overloaded with crap that really doesn't matter. One suggestion though on the cover, get it powder coated in the color of your choice, not paint. It will look better, and last a whole lot longer. :cheers:

If you don't mind, Whats SAR duty? I have always been interested in the Coast Guard, but never ended up going down that path :roll: Search and Rescue. Encompasses anything from pulling drunken small boat skippers off sand bars and reefs to pulling folks out of the water after a storm to whatever else could happen answering a distress call. Interesting duty, you don't get bored. I did it for a few years in the Chesapeake Bay w. the CG between hitches in the USN. What I liked about it most was if you went down, you could most always wade ashore since it was a CG small boat. :yes: Only kidding - the USCG is a super group and vital to our security now more than ever before.

Unfortunately they're not the same. The correct line, p/n 53004247 is specific for XJ/MJ 1985-1986 years only.

Looks like the big guy is confused by all the drama. :D

:thumbsup: :hijack: Just noticed your cat smokes unfiltereds. Not healthy. Gus the Cocker has basically quit now, but he'll still fire up occasionally if I let him. But he insists on ultra-lights, w. a maxi filter.

On the 91-95 OBDI MJ/XJ HOs (and perhaps the OBDII system also, not sure) disconnecting the neg cable causes what I consider an issue. At rest, no IGN ON, residual memory current (microamps) is constantly fed to the OBDI ECU to retain it's open/closed loop memory. Disconnecting the neg cable causes the ECU to lose it's memory instantly. For the ECU to completely "re-learn" it's residual settings, it needs to be driven about 100 miles or so, especially on a modified engine. It's a minor PITA as the idle is always lower during the process, and sometimes causes stalling when in stop and go traffic. Preventing this loss of ECU memory is easy by hooking up a common 9VDC battery with alligator clip leads attached across the neg battery post and cable (observing correct polarity) before disconnecting the battery neg cable. A healthy 9V battery will retain the ECU's memory for days since the draw is so small while you are working an electrical problem on your rig.

SAR duty?

I personally don't give a dayem either if someone's headlight switch, plug, connector, or a wire fire occurs if they are clueless regarding total vehicle load under certain conditions. Our old trucks are all twenty or so years old, been rode hard, and corrosion and age have taken their toll causing additional total electrical load due to voltage drops. They were originally designed to handle a 25%-50% temporary overload conditions. When you add devices like dual/upgraded fans, upgraded headlamps, fog/driving lamps, power accessories, etc. etc. etc., total vehicle load increases. When total vehicle load increases, you need to increase the alternator size, and also increase the wire size to handle the increased amperage to the added devices to handle total load + at least 25% over. This definitely includes H4 headlamps. As a rule of thumb, I run any device that has a amp draw potential of at least 10A through a relay. I also increase the load side of the relay with heavier AWG gauge wiring. Running H4's through the standard 16AWG wiring and switch/connectors may be fine for awhile. But at night, when it's snowing and cold, and the heater blower, headlamps, driving lights, and extra fans are running flat out, sooner or later something's going to smoke at the weakest access to ground. If you're lucky, it may be only a switch or connector or even your alternator causing a temp failure until you replace it. If you're unlucky, it will be a short due to an insulation burn through somewhere on your rotten harness, igniting some gas/oil leak and flames will result. Maybe the associated circuit fuse or fusible link will blow first, maybe not. Anyone who gives advice that when adding any electrical component that has more amp draw the original electrical component it replaced and not taking steps to handle the additional system load is giving bad advice, and is clueless. :dunce: Oh, to the dunce (you know who you are), have you ever wondered why the cost cutting AMC electrical engineers used relays for the factory H2/H3/H4 fog lamps, but not for the OEM sealed beam headlamps? It's called conforming to the minimal electrical code standards in effect back in the day.

I'm happy to be the first (after Rob) to congratulate you for the March 2012 MJOTM youngster Jim. I'm not going to comment on your statewide MJ rescue effort - everyone knows about your dedication and knowledge for these great trucks. It's the other stuff like sharing your expertise, life experiences (so many), and generally being a great role model and calming influence to our forum. You're living life the way you want to mate, keep it up for another twenty or so. :cheers:

Hesco's motto is similar. But fortunately you get exactly what you pay for - excellent results.

I have one from a 95 Toyota 4Runner standing by if and when my stock load sensing valve goes belly up. It's close in design and looks like it will bolt up pretty easily.

:agree: The harness is more mandatory than the new lamps.

Yes, but sometimes they do pleasantly surprise you. Plus it's an OEM part. I always check the dealer price first to avoid the mostly cheap "offshore" junk that's retailed now.......

Dealer still shows it available: 1986 - JEEP - CHEROKEE CLUTCH / HYDRAULIC SYSTEM / HYDRAULIC SYSTEM / HYDRAULIC LINE 53004247 - HYDRAULIC LINES HOSE TO SLAVE CYL; 2.5L, $34.59

If Dales Daddy were driving that race he sure wouldn't be pushing someone on the last lap. He'd be busting people out of the way going for the lead or crash trying. :D

I'm a lot older than that and it's not for me. Ever, because I'll never need it. Kind of a girly thing......

This was true about 4-5 years ago; not anymore. The smaller models are farmed out "offshore". Only certain models (the larger very expensive models) are still made in Scandinavia.

Rain coming in, so it better happen quick.