HOrnbrod

Pretty sure he was asking about the green sensor. Not sure about the "was black" that followed though.

Knock sensor I think? But I'm not a Renix aficionado.

Stock MJ cables with a Ford clevis bracket. Look at the pic above.

^^ Wise advice. I always use genuine Mopar unless it made of unobtainium.

She picked a misnomer for an ID as it obviously does not apply. :yes: I've tried their fantasy bidding for years and have won nothing. Congrats! That should be good for 10-11 MJ fill-ups. :cheers:

Yes. Both the LWB and SWB use the same rear L&R cables. The difference in body length is made up by the ebrake pedal-to-bracket cable.

We checked into that before I retired working for Uncle because we both loved the Australian west coast north of Perth. Even had a good civilian job lined up at a former US Navy base. The AU government wanted almost 50% of my retirement pay for the privilege of living there. Needless to say we didn't do it.

I have about a 3" lift and the stock cables were plenty long enough on my LWB. Also the L & R rear cables are the same length and use the same part number (52000865). And if you have the cable entrances facing toward the rear, you can swap the L & R side backing plates so the cable enters front the front. If you come in from the front the cables don't need to be as long. Here's another creative solution from 86FUBAR:

Is English your second language mate? :yes:

Every O2 sensor in Renix and 91-92 OBDI MJs are "pre-cat". If it's bad, you stay in open loop. Bad mileage yes, but most always no miss. What the OP has is an intermittent ignition cut off problem with the tach shutdown. Most likely causes are a bad CPS or it's connector problem, a distributor pickup problem, a failing coil, or a grounding problem as Cruiser detailed.

They used to only race camels.

:thumbsup:

740-Lumen Burst. Almost equivalent to a fully fueled Zippo firing up.

Ever install an 4.0L RV cam using the stock valve train and timing set? Just curious..............

Here I am complaining about a little snow in 'Bama and look at what my son has growing off his roof. He lives in Salt Lake. Said he's going to take a chainsaw to it tomorrow. Image Not Found

The more brown crap there is the better the coffee tastes. USN dictum. :yes:

Thanks guys. I've used external pumps before and a cushioned mount makes a lot of difference killing the noise. I'm more concerned with cooling than noise. And the fact that submerged pumps are more efficient than suction pumps. As you mentioned, locating it as close as possible to the tank suction point is very important. :thumbsup:

My crate Hesco stroker ran hot for the first 500 miles or so also, and I did a lot of cooling experimentation and upgrades. It finally settled in at about 1K miles, and it's got about 25K on it now with no problems. The best cooling system for me was a quality 2-row alloy radiator with dual electric fans and a Hesco hi-flow pump. The cowl hood really helped in high temp traffic too where I had most of the problems. I also continue to use a high zinc content motor oil (Chevron Delo 15-40 Diesel) which is still at 1250 ppm so no additive is needed. But as with any stroker with a non-stock cam, the valve train clatter is noiseier than stock, thus am considering the Yella-Terra rockers to quiet things down a bit. Probably going with the 1.6 kit.

Jim, if you directed your focus from saving stray MJs to saving stray animals, you would be the patron saint of the animal kingdom. :cheers: Oh, wait a minute, you do that too! :group beer:

Just one of many reasons I left the great frozen north and never looked back.

Butt dynos are notoriously inaccurate. They tell you what you imagine you want to be told. This thread will help with a few bolt-on modifications, as well as performance chips: http://www.jeepstrok...c.php?f=5&t=387

I knew their poly mounts would vibrate the mirrors off the truck, but I've also read their "ultra-flex" rubber mounts vibrate pretty good too, a lot more than the stock mounts. I'd hate to spring for a pair and have it vibrate anymore than it already does. :yes:

I like the external pump idea. It's a major PITA to change out the in-tank pump now with pulling the drive shaft, removing the skid, then dropping the tank. Next time my pump goes out I'm going with a quality external pump and just tie the pump discharge side in at the existing fuel filter inlet. The tank return line and sender can stay as it is. Then when the time comes for the next pump change, I can do it in less than 30 minutes. Garvin, what's with the two capped ports on top of you tank? One for the return line and one for the emissions cannister?

Did you even read the procedure? You don't need a code reader. You don't have an OBDII truck, it's OBDI.