HOrnbrod

Gracias. Considering parallax angle error while looking at a tape measure, ± 1/64" is in the ballpark. :thumbsup:

They don't have to be mounted on the frame; you can install them anywhere, even on sheet metal. When installed they are like a weldnut w/o welding. Handy for mounting things on places where you can't access a nut on the other side. Like firewalls, inner fenders, inner p/u bed, etc. Acts like a blind nut. The factory skid plates are mounted using nutserts. I use a lot of them, for example this: Image Not Found

What's it work out to with a 31" tire Eagle? I set my toe at 1/8".

Also, why don't you use nutserts? That's what the factory used to mount most everything to the frame. Easy to install and very strong. Would work well to mount the pump.

Some how i don't think Gojeep would be into pulling parts of his fine XJ I think you be correct. :yes:

In case someone with a 91 (or possibly 92) has a similar backup light problem, this only applies to a Renix systems. There is no under dash Trans fuse for the HOs. The POWER/COMFORT switch is fed by an independent 10A fuse up in the PDC. Pulling this fuse defaults the AW4 to the POWER mode.

Ain't gonna happen. Give Marcus a call up in Victoria. Maybe he'll sell you his. :yes:

:agree: duh.......

I like this one:

https://www.google.com/search?q=green+jeep+comanche&client=firefox-a&hs=yAN&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=1cvMUdmMIbDJ0AGCx4CYAw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=800&bih=464

Yes, did the same thing by limiting the travel of the Redline struts. Still didn't open far enough for me. Found it more convenient to just pop off the wiper arm.

Good point. Gus the Cocker Spaniel, my most frequent passenger, doesn't give a damn. His head is always sticking out the window rain or shine with his ears flapping and a big smile on his face.

The problem with these hoods is that you have to remove the right wiper arm so you can open it all the way. But I can live with it. :yes:

I not sure you can do this with the Ford axle, but why can't you swap the backing plates and mount the calipers facing forward? Then the ebrake cables would be plenty long enough and easier to run too. That's how I set up the Explorer disks on my D44.

Correct, started w. a 4* reading, added 5mm of shims on both sides in the rear LCA bucket which moved the LCA forward.

After lift to get in the ballpark, I roughed in the caster by setting a magnetic angle finder on the top flat of the upper ball joint on both sides. It read about 4*. Then added shims to the LCAs (non-adjustable) until I reached 7* (spec caster angle). Took an equal amount of shims on both sides. The next day I got an alignment at a shop and the caster was spot on at 7*. If you can't set the angle finder flush on the top of the upper ball joint because of the zerk fitting, you can use a socket between the angle finder and ball joint.

NSS Pinout at the bottom of this link. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm

The aux fan still functions as it always does; comes on with the A/C, and will come on @ 230* or so if you don't switch it on manually because you are using the same circuit, just applying the ground to the ECU earlier. Yes, it's a simple on/off dash switch. I used a rear window defrost dash switch from an XJ for mine. PM me an email address and I can send you the wiring diagram.

There really is no accurate way to check the sensor unless you monitor the resistance vs. the coolant temperature in the thermostat housing. On most all HOs (including mine) the aux fan won't kick on until 230*-235* on the temp gauge. And I did try a new sensor, no difference. That's too high for me, so I wired in a dash switch that applies a ground to pin 31 of the ECU to energize the fan relay. This is what the thermostat housing sensor does to turn on the aux fan at high temp.

Lower the front just a bit and you could make a fortune in the winter plowing driveways.

As said before, the best (easiest) option for the 91-92 MJs is the 95-96 dual diaphragm booster and master. It's bolt-on, provided you use the the 1/4" spacer between the booster and the firewall as the 95 and 96 XJs do. The stock brake switch is retained. You do need to bend new brake lines (I used the original fittings) from the M/C to the existing distribution block, and move your windshield washer reservoir forward about an inch, unless you move the washer tank inside the fender well as I did, another good upgrade. All in all maybe 2-3 hours including bleeding and well worth doing.

Another pic.

Me too. Thought it was here a few years back, or maybe on the old Yahoo! forum. :hmm: Definitely rings my bell....

Get all the crap out of the bed would probably lighten it by 50%. Where is it in N. Alabama? Looks familiar.....

To answer the thread, it's not a bad idea to cut down a slip yoke as long as it's internally fully splined. Some of them are not. I trimmed a long 27-spline GM yoke down after I did the original lift and ran it a few years until I was finished playing with the lift. Worked fine.