HOrnbrod

If your engine is normally aspirated, you probably will not notice that much difference w/o other intake modifications to complement it. But it's a good starting point.

Courtesy of CC member Rich. :cheers: http://www.uproxx.com/webculture/2013/10/check-balls-texas-mans-craigslist-ad-jeep-wrangler/#ixzz2jzkp6QQG

The signal switch? :huh???:

The comparison tests were run under the same conditions and same RPM sequences for each header. Same engine, same dyno, different headers. The so-called long-tube Leach header, marketed by Mopar Performance until 2000, outperformed the others including the other ML designed Mopar header pictured below. That's the main reason I purchased it, even though it was around $400 at the time. I am still looking for the late 90s header dyno test data. It was on the Mopar Performance site, but it's long gone now. Here is an interesting article regarding various 4.0L header designs: http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoExhuast.htm Of course a header with longer equal-length tubes is best for optimal performance, but with the limited real estate in the XJ/MJ engine compartment, it couldn't happen. And most Leach headers were designed to fit in all Jeeps of the era with the 4.0L engine. They accomplished this by using different collector end pipes. I suspect the XJ engine compartment was the limiting factor on header tube length.

Did you read that he has head lamps when he hits "Flash-to-Pass"? That means he has power to the dimmer switch.

Please enlighten us. Better yet, please don't. :yes:

My my, aren't we getting childish. More disparaging comments, now highlighted in BOLD! How sad. It's obvious you have never seen any dyno runouts comparing peak power and torque numbers of the various available headers on the same 4.6L stroker engine. And I'll be sure to suggest to Mopar Performance that they should rename their long-tube Mike Leach header based on an eyeball calculation from some unknown wannabe. They'll get a good laugh. Keep up the amusing prattle; it's very enjoyable.

Yes, very possible. That's the first place I'd start looking.

Good to hear you got it working. Next time you are at the yard, pull another horn from an XJ for the other side of your truck. The wiring is already there, so just bolt it on and plug it in.

Trick? It's not a trick, and pinging is controllable depending on engine compression and fuel octane rating. It's called a piggy-back chip installed between the ECU and the engine harness and has been around for many years. The Unichip is an example. Once installed, it allows you to plug in a programing tool, like a simple Windows laptop, and download various programs called MAPs maps to match your engine configuration. These MAPs maps are used to control inputs to the ECU, be it OBD1 or OBD2. These inputs include the IAT, CPS, TPS, and MAP signals and allow you to tune the A/F ratio for max power, max economy, and points in between. Piggy-back chips like the Unichip can be used on both stock and stroker engines, although stock engines w/o sufficient suck and blow mods are limited. As far as a blanket statement "In general use now is changing the fuel/air ratio via closed-loop control by utilizing O2 sensor feedback" ?? Would like an explanation how that is accomplished. Open/closed loop O2 sensor voltage output to the ECU is fixed in transition and is not variable except at 80% to WOT when the O2 sensor input defaults to open loop voltage, controlled by the ECU. There is no feedback. A Unichip or similar can control at what point this O2 sensor shift occurs based on the downloaded programmed MAP and the signals it delivers to the ECU. Edit: MAP corrected to map. Thanks for pointing that out.

I've had tires that couldn't be balanced by conventional spin balancers, and came out smooth using the Hunter road force machine. The Hunter balancers are expensive, so your local Mom and Pop shops probably still use spin balancers because of the cost. Try to balance your bro's tires at a place that has this balancer before resorting to other means. Call around. Usually the balancing cost is the same. http://www.hunter.com/balancer/roadforce/

Doesn't work well with carbed Jeeps either. Or carbed anything.

Carnuck, do you even read the entire post before you pop out the first thing that occurs to you? Anyone who posts up 25-30 posts in 30 minutes on multiple threads can not be posting an accurate informed reply that will benefit our members. Or are you simply trying to build up your post count? C'mon man..........

You pressure washed around the throttle body? Really?

Any corroded electrical connection on the starting, ignition, and/or fuel system can cause hard starting. That's why Cruiser posts up detailed instructions for cleaning these system connections, connectors, and sensors up.

Did they balance the the tires using a Hunter Road Force balancer? For stock size tires it probably not necessary, but for 31" on up, I've found out that these machines do the best job by far. The local Chevy dealer in town has one and I always go there for tire install and balancing after learning the hard way. Of course the balancer is only as good as the operator.

Almost word for word. It's not funny anymore the second time around.

John, it's good you got to speak at length with Mike. I've never had the pleasure. I can't believe he doesn't have the prints anymore. I was lucky to get a long tube; all that's available now are the stubbies and they are not much better than the stock manifolds. These headers do pop up occasionally over on the strokers forum, but everyone wants one. I heard Hesco has a few around too. And no, I won't be trying to make a print anytime soon - sorry. I wouldn't know how to anyhow. :yes:

That really sucks. Why not Denmark, it's a lot closer. I suppose it's okay if you live in southern Sweden, but what about the people way up north? That's where my mother is from, near Umea. I remember her telling me her father used to make his own booze up there. :cheers:

Either this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OEM-STEERING-WHEEL-HORN-CONTACT-CAM-WIRE-FOR-GM-/390684152992 or this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-81-CORVETTE-PONTIAC-FIREBIRD-HORN-CONTACT-KIT-NEW-GM-/220808839263 depending on which steering wheel you have.

This would be pretty easy to do (and safe) if you use four toggle switches to mimic the ignition switch positions and use the same wires to the toggle switches as designed. You would need three single pole switches for the OFF, ACCY, and RUN positions, and one momentary contact switch for the START position. If you don't use the original wires from the ignition switch as designed, you would have to install relays to disconnect the devices that are normally shut down while cranking the engine in the START position. That will put a nice heavy load on the battery. :yes: But who knows what your universal "kit" is. Good luck, and test all positions for shorts before connecting the battery. Or most likely smoke will happen.............

That's exactly how it is. The nylon retainer presses into the hole, and the spring is inserted into the retainer, then the pin rides inside the spring. All Jeep three-spoke steering wheels, and many GM wheels use these same three parts for horn activation. J3187257, RETAINER J3187255, SPRING 52004403, PIN If you go to the yard and pull the horn button, remove the insulated three screws and pull off the spring plate, it will all be immediately obvious.

Page 98 is the column multifunction switch. You need to be looking at page 21.

I just downloaded it no problem. :dunno: You do have to hit the "Download" button. If it doesn't work for you, shoot me a PM with your email address and I can email it to you.

Why is the CC forum in CDT when logged out, and CST when logged in? Or has it always been this way? :hmm: