HOrnbrod

Looks like it's for a 93 and below S10 SWB.

Jeff sold his MJ a couple of years ago..................

I suspect you are correct.

Install your new axle keeping the MJ block and load sensing valve, then see how the rear brakes work. My rear disks work just fine with the load sensing valve adjusted properly. Others claim their valve didn't work, so they eliminated it for 50 - 50 front - rear brake biasing. You won't know until you try it.

Between hitches in the Navy, back in the 70's I got a job working for the Sun Oil company in Richmond, VA delivering gas to service stations all over the state. After a year of driving these 20 - forward speed Mack rigs on city streets and up/down the Blue Ridge mountains I quit because my left knee couldn't take it anymore. Went back in the Navy and haven't owned a standard transmission vehicle since except for motorcycles. The best thing about manuals is that there's a whole lot less drivetrain power loss than the auto transmissions, sometimes as much as 50% less. This makes for better power to the rear wheels and of course better mileage.

The below is how you remove the o-ring, but this is for XJs that have the prop valve in the block. The block on the MJs is not a prop valve, it's simply a distribution block. There's no o-ring in the MJ block. The load sensing valve is the proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Install your new axle keeping the MJ block and load sensing valve, then see how the rear brakes work. If they lock up too quick, install an inline prop valve to bias the rear disks. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm EDIT: ^^ Brett beat me to it. :yes:

:shake: Where are you looking?

OME 2930 front coils.

Correct. Here are the ones I use: OME Nitrocharger Shocks (Yellow): Front w. 1"-3" lift: OME N35 (13.70"-22.36") or OME N39, (13.46" - 22.13") Rear w. 1"-3" lift: OME N30 (14.4"-24.3" from 96-05 Nissan Terrano R20) or OME N95 (14.13" - 23.58" from Toyota Land Cruiser)

The 91-92 MJ fuel pump sending units were all standardized. LWB, SWB, and tank size do not matter; they all used the same sender. The p/n is 4637184, and it's stamped 52017559. The below is what a NOS unit looks like. Good luck. Probably one of the hardest MJ parts to find..................

w/o anti-lock 4761941 w. anti-lock 4761942

Nope, it won't be simpler for his 91. The 95-96 XJ swap is pure PnP and the hardest part, if you want to call it hard, is bending the new lines which you should do anyhow.

I didn't because IIRC the old lines didn't line up with the ports and the new master flare fittings were a different size. I bent new lines from the master to the block and reused the block flare nuts.

The 95-96 boosters are the same, anti-lock or not. The 95-96 masters have different part numbers from w. and w/o anti-lock, so I used a non-anti-lock master when I installed mine. I don't know the difference between the masters though.

Agree with most of that. While my Hesco stroker engine is a far cry from Bob's race engine, I can relate a similar experience regarding injectors. The Hesco crate engine came with stock 96-99 Mopar 53030778 "Gray Top" single hole injectors rated at 23.2lb/hr @49psi and an adjustable FPR. After doing a lot of exhaust and intake work and giving the ECU plenty of time to learn the new settings, I played with various fuel pressures dialing in the correct AFR for weeks and thought I had it perfect. To be sure I went back to Hesco for a dyno run. Lee Hurley, the guy who developed FI for the AMC I6 did the dyno run. It turned out the best peak HP/Torque readings over the RPM range were developed at 43psi. Every engine is different, and you'll never know what works best until you do a dyno run. I sure noticed a hell of a difference on the way home. I also asked him about the benefits of swapping to 4-nozzle Bosch injectors everyone thinks is an upgrade. He said he never saw any improvement for a stroker engine using these injectors on the dyno, and in a lot of cases produced lower numbers than the single jet injectors. Maybe it's different for N/A engines, I don't know. I do have a new set of Bosch 702 "Neon" injectors ready to go on, but not until the Mopar injectors break or leak. Then I'll have another dyno run.............

Who knows? The point is the factory parts manual makes no mention of the design change; it shows the reinforcement plates used through the 92 model year. It definitely had me buffaloed for awhile..........

Good suggestions, but I think that might be bit over the top, si? :yes:

Yep. And the vehicle operator is basically clueless what the AFR is w/o an A/F meter to monitor it. I keep mine close to 14.8 to 1, and dial it back in with the adjustable FPR whenever I make changes to the suck and blow systems, including injectors. W/o an A/F meter you're just p!$$ing in the wind. To me an A/F meter is a vital tool for monitoring the overall health of your engine. EDIT: And Jeepman, with all due respect, this is not your thread just because you started it. Once posted it's open for all to agree or disagree. Just because someone disagrees with your opinions isn't valid cause to close the thread. I personally think you are spot on, but that's irrelevant. I also think this thread is a good discussion and beneficial to the majority of CC members.

Good. Maybe if they roll it again with no top it'll knock some sense into their little pinheads.

You can use an online service, or a graphics program to paste a transparent text (or image) to the image you want watermarked. I use Paintshop Pro. Sample: Image Not Found

Excellent. I'll start doing this.

00 XJ could have either TC; assumed your 00 donor XJ donor had the 242. How about the 90 TC spline count compatibility? I forget........

^^ This. Example: I posted up on CC a pic of a personalized Alabama Red Sox license plate I had w/o blanking it out. A few months later I was browsing around for a new license plate idea and found my CC pic was posted on an independent Red Sox fan web site as the #4 best Red Sox license plate of all time. Huh? Harmless in this case, but if your pic isn't copyrighted, you're fair game for everyone to use it.

Then you'll need the speedo gear / sensor housing from a 97 and up 242 tcase, but I'm not sure it will fit your 231 tcase.