HOrnbrod

Breather vent line.

From the Jeep Forum:

The reason you are smoking u-joints is because the u-joint operating angle is beyond 11* or so, about the max you can run them. Like Pete said, remove your AAL then measure your pinion angle with an angle finder. You can look up how to do this on the Tom Wood driveshaft site. Right now your rear axle pinion snout is pointing too high because of your lift. As stated you can lower the axle snout back down with axle shims between the leafs and axle spring plate. The shims are steel wedges and come in varying degree sizes. So to know which size you need you'll need to measure the angles. Since you are SOA, the "fat" side of the wedge will be facing forward to lower the axle snout. All this info is on this site: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#OperatingAngle

Si, XJ. Or TJ. Or MJ. Or LJ. etc. :yes:

Since it's a 92, what's the build date? (its on the driverside door sticker, in the form of month and year)

Or get a pair of ~16" curved "fixed length" WJ LCAs. Superlift and others make them. Might be cheaper in the long run than welding drop brackets on. IIRC your lift is quite a bit less than 4". Using drop brackets may decrease caster and increase the pinion angle out of specs, but I'm not sure by how much. :dunno: Using the "fixed length" LCAs close to stock length you can still dial in the caster using shims behind the LCAs.

Correct, you have the extension but will need numbers 12-15. Also the cancelling cam is different between the tilt and non-tilt. Have you had your wheel off yet to see what's behind it?

Like gogmorgo said above you're going to need parts 11-13 in the below pic for the grounding wire assembly. The 2-spoke steering wheel does not have these parts inside the column. Best bet is to get them from a 3-spoke wheel donor at the junkyard.

really? huh. guess I had it backwards all along. :dunno: learn something new every day :D I thought I had mine in backwards for the longest time too until I looked it up. I guess there really isn't a "normal" way to mount WJ LCAs on an MJ. :yes:

The reason I ask is because on the WJs the oval bushing goes axle side .

What's the "normal" orientation?

Si. If they are the same "thickness" then why not?

Why? XJ/MJ UCA bolt failure isn't a problem that I'm aware of. And you would still have the flimsy U-channel XJ/MJ UCA with a smaller rubber mass bushing. I'd rather convert to the tubular WJ UCA's or box-in the XL/MJ UCA's.

Good reading if you haven't done so already: http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread.php?9689-WJ-LCA-install http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1018788 http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/wj-lca-swap-notes-torque-question-211573/

:dunno: Sorry Adam, no idea on this one, except to try flipping the LCAs and have the oval bush on the axle end. IIRC some of the guys mounted them like that. Pete maybe? They will work fine either way, and they might fit with better clearance on your 4WD Renix rig by reversing them.

Here's a couple of shots of my left LCA. 1991 with OME 930 lift coils, stock UCA's, 2WD with 31x10.50x15 tires and stock turbine wheels .I installed mine with the wheels on, on the floor, no jack, and one side at a time. The axle didn't rotate at all, and had good clearance everywhere. Hope this helps..........

Sorry, that's wrong John. The UDOT salts the crap out of their roads, especially in the cities. My son has lived in SLC for many years. He has a pristine 67 C10 and parks it in the winter because of that. Bo is getting that fine late model truck out of there plenty soon enough so no worries there.

How does moisture get absorbed into a sealed brake system? Osmosis? Sorry it happened, but isn't it possible that salt and corrosion had more to do with the steel brake line failure than from corrosion from within?

Sure you can ask . I'm looking to clear my 31s at full turn so they won't rub . I'm open to install arms that are bent like the WJ ones that are tubular etc . Yep, tire clearance is their main purpose, but I also got a hell of a handling improvement up front due to the tubular WJ arm's better rigidity and the beefier bushings.

A lot of the questions you ask have already been written up in the DIY forum HERE. Check it out first. And yes, good write-ups with lots of pics and explanations are always welcome in this forum.

The 91-93 clutch master cylinders carry the same p/n; it changed on the 1994 models.

I would spend the few $$ and check out the report before going to look at it. I actually found out that if you post an eBay motors ad with a VIN, it'll give you the report for free. So I posted one just to see the report and the 25 records were all re-registrations and one sale, all in Oklahoma. Seems pretty OK with me (no pun intended) so I'm going to go check it out later this week :thumbsup:

Hmm. I didn't have any of those those problems, but am 2WD, maybe that makes a difference. Also you are taller than I am - your Jeep I mean. :yes: Did you check out Gojeep's writeup? May give you a hint. He used drop brackets though........ http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoWJcontrolarms.htm

On the Ebay listing: I would spend the few $$ and check out the report before going to look at it.