HOrnbrod

Just sitting there minding her own business and gets pancaked. May she RIP. :( It good you got a decent settlement......

Unplug it.

Disconnect the NSS connector and jumper pins B and C (the two BLK wires) on the engine harness side and see if the engine cranks over in PARK.

There are plenty of vehicles that use the 1310 series u-joints. Most 70s-90s GM and Ford half-ton pickups used them. Finding a used one the exact length you need won't be easy. You could always look for an MJ 4WD shaft; AFAIK they don't have the rubber sheath.

Your stock 2WD shaft (if original) will be ~4" in diameter, and the inner shaft is encased by a rubber sheath. Over time the rubber decomposes and makes it nearly impossible to balance from the rubber shifting around inside. This happened to mine, and I had to have a new shaft made.

Damn, sorry to hear about your 88 w. the 4.6 Clifford engine Nori. Did you salvage the engine?

What did they bust you for Mike? They obviously couldn't park in front of your house since it's blocked off with Comanches. :rotfl2:

The Renix and HO fuel line quick connectors are exactly the same. The Mopar quick-connects are sturdier and easier to change out than the Dorman and Crown junk, but they both work. And yes, AN connectors are the way to go. Some day............ http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X83502745.TRS0&_nkw=83502745&_sacat=0

Mine's harder. With the 01 intake and the 04 TJ steering pump, there's very little wiggle room for the fuel lines. I had to bend the fuel rail nipples slightly to fit them in. Thus I disco the fuel lines when changing injectors. Last time I disconnected the fuel lines from the rail in my RENIX Jeep, it cost $25 to put them back together. The FSM says to replace those little plastic fittings if you disconnect them, it is a "disposable" seal. Guess what, those little plastic thingies are out of production, last I heard.... My last engine swap, the fuel rail was hanging off to the side, still connected to the fuel lines. No leaks there, yet. Guess what, I got spares.

You made the statement that a stock cat is not restrictive. It most definitely is. It has to be to effectively do it's job. And the older it gets, the more restrictive it becomes. The 9HP gain on the first dyno run was with another cat, a somewhat less restrictive one at that, which translated into a 9HP gain. So maybe that would be 4.5HP or whatever gain on an N/A 4.0, who knows until it's dynoed? Lots of variables as you say. But w/o proof you are spouting pure conjecture. Your statement that the cat "wouldn't surprise me if it had less of an effect than a glass pack would" was ludicrous. The below is my cat now. It's there only to cut down the resonant exhaust drone noise inherent in all 6-cylinder engines. It had zero restrictive results. Also dyno proven before and after. Go on over to the strokers forum to see the results. Maybe you will be surprised. I'm done with this now..........

M18 x 1.5. You can p/u an O2 sensor bung thread chaser tool at the Zone or any chain auto parts store and plug it up with that temporarily. If the O2 sensor heater element is open, there's no O2 output to the ECU. On an HO that immediately kicks it into open loop. I don't know about the Renix junction box computer.

That's bull. Catalytic converters are restrictive. They do make a difference on the dyno. I've seen it. My first dyno run at Hesco back in 05 to establish a baseline with the fresh new stroker was with Leach headers and the stock exhaust w. the stock cat. Lee Hurley said the cat is strangling it. While there they welded in a cheap Magna Flow high flow cat and the torque and HP peaks went up ~9HP on the second run. Came back a month later with a new split dual 2.5" exhaust all the way back with NO cat, and the peaks went up another 12HP. So yeah, cats are restrictive. Gotta balance the suck and blow. And it's come a long way since then. But I agree somewhat with you; probably on a N/A 4.0, there won't be much difference w. or w/o a cat with the stock intake system. But until it's proven on the dyno, :dunno:

Mine's harder. With the 01 intake and the 04 TJ steering pump, there's very little wiggle room for the fuel lines. I had to bend the fuel rail nipples slightly to fit them in. Thus I disco the fuel lines when changing injectors.

Hey that write up looks familiar :yes: And a good writeup it is. :cheers:

Pulling the fuel lines off the rail is a matter of choice. I always detach them and have never had a problem with the clips "re-latching" as long as you lube them up a little. With the fuel rail removed it's easier inserting the new injectors and there's no stress caused on the brittle plastic fuel lines by moving the rail around when they are still attached. I guess removing the gas cap thingy is in case there's pressure in the tank in the newer XJs with the regulator in the tank? :dunno:

Don't use pliers on the fuel line clips; they might break. They come off quite easily just squeezing with your fingers and pulling them off. THIS is an excellent writeup w. pics. It's for an HO but the procedure is basically the same for Renix. Don't forget to mark your electrical connectors.

Sounds like it's sticks in open loop occasionally. Maybe it's time for a new O2 sensor? Or at least a wiring check..

Do you have a temp gauge or idiot light on the dash? I'm assuming a light since you're asking about engine temp. Your truck should have a 195* thermostat, and OEM Mopar (p/n 83501426) is the best one to keep your engine running at optimum temperature year round. Another cause of insufficient heat is a clogged heater core. Disconnect the heater hoses from it and backflush it out thoroughly with a water hose and see if that helps.

See this? Same bearings.... http://comancheclub.com/topic/51335-diy-renix-40-ac-bracket-bearing-replacement/

The crossbody harness is up front - has nothing to do with rear lighting. Download the 91-93 Parts catalog HERE. Look in the GROUP 8 Section, ELECTRICAL, WIRING for the MJ/XJ vehicles. This will show you how the wiring harnesses interconnect.

Both the 91 and up 2.5 and 4.0 XJ/MJ models were MPFI OBD1 systems. The cross-body harnesses for the 4.0 and 2.5 have different part numbers; what the difference(s) are I don't know. I doubt if they are interchangeable. There were also subtle connector differences between the 91 and 92+ harnesses, so I'd try to find a 91 XJ/MJ cross-body harness at a yard to be sure they would all be PnP.

Do you have sliders on your MJ? Would love to see some pics.

With bottom-line motivated El Sergio yanking all of Fiat-Chrysler's strings, that's probably exactly how a new Jeep pickup would look if it ever comes to fruition Brett. He could care less about Jeep's heritage and tradition.

:yes: In other words, "Do as I say and not as I do blah blah..............." :smart:

So who makes leaf spring sliders for the MJ?