HOrnbrod

That's the hose set for an XJ. Pretty much the same, eh?

Who / What's a James Coudright?

https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1989-JEEP-COMANCHE-CUSTOM-PICKUP-207031

The later TB's (96 and up) had provisions for TB mounting. I did this using a 96 MAP sensor and it really smoothed out the idle using a bored TB. http://comancheclub.com/topic/41929-installing-a-1996-throttle-body-mounted-map-sensor/

Does this throttle body have provisions for mounting the MAP sensor?

New 63mm TB Where did this come from? Any exhaust mods like a header?

Did you check for codes? If none, after changing all the sensors, TB, etc. you should clear the ECU residual memory and start from scratch.

That's exactly what I'm interested in. I am going from original (old) standard springs to these, and wondering what the best route will be for leveling the front end, assuming it needs it. It will need it. :cheers:

Yep. you can keep them. It's an illogical system and makes little sense to me. Too may "unexplainables". When they run well they are fine. But an ohm or millivolt off here and there can cause them to run like crap. The OBD-1 systems especially to a lesser extent -2 are much more forgiving.

It's normal if you're using a digital VM as you're looking at the 5V reference. To see the output with the engine running you need to use an o'scope or an analog voltmeter. The below explains it, particularly paragraphs 4 & 5.

Schematic says G105, so it's at the dipstick.

Nope. The switching wideband O2 output signal is referenced to ground. On a 4-wire O2 like the HO's have, there are two wires for the internal heater resistor.

For all 3-wire O2 sensors: Pin A = Ignition input (12V, 5V reference, etc.) Pin B = Ground Pin C = Output to computer

No worries. :yes:

I take that to mean O2 sensor connector to engine block ground = 0 ohms. So the vehicle is running trouble free and the monitor is in error. or Everything you did and see is true and your engine is running lean. Your not burning Corn-85 are you? I vote the digital monitor's response time is too slow..............

http://comancheclub.com/topic/40927-gas-filler-hose-part-2/

No PDC on a Renix. Grab one. :thumbsup:

A good way to check is to stick your head under the hood and look at the end that connects to the + battery terminal, then follow the cable to the other end and see what it connects to. :thumbsup: And while you're there, it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery cables, clean the terminals, then reconnect. BTW, do you have a voltmeter?

Why did you replace the headlight switch? Was everything working before you did? Was the headlight switch connector burnt?

To improve the craptastic left tail lamp ground, you can run an additional ground wire from the grounding screw behind the lamp down to a solid mounting point on the frame, like a bumper bolt.

Don does - HERE On the last dyno run the 99.5+ intake alone was good for ~12HP on the stroker. For every suck mod you make, you have to equalize it with a blow mod. I have to go back for another run one of these days since I've done a lot of little stuff since.

Welcome. Looks like a nice clean 91 LWB. Good choice - :thumbsup:

Any lift plans and/or larger tires in your future? All I can at this point is tell you what I did after much thought when I replaced my original c-clip D35 with a used MJ D44 as you are doing. My truck is a 2WD street truck, and never sees offroad except from a distance. It has a small 3" lift, and larger 31" tires. Gears: The D44 I bought had 3.55 gears. With the larger tires, I regeared to 4.10 using Yukon "thick" gears. This allowed me to retain my existing TracLok diff (which I like for street). 4.10's and 31" tires provide an ideal gear ratio for the street. Carrier: An extra Honda Passport TL carrier came with my D44, so I used that after replacing the clutches. Pinion Seal: Mine leaked also. I replaced both the seal and pinion yoke with a stronger "u-bolt" pinion and ditched the puny u-bolt straps. Axle seals and bearings: Replaced. Carrier gears: They were in good shape, it was a low mileage axle, so I reused them. Pinion bearings: Replaced. Disk brakes: I already had Teraflex/Explorer disk brakes on my D35 with low mileage, so bought new backing plates (different axle flange) and preload spacers, and reinstalled the existing calipers and rotors. EDIT: Just read your plans, so with keeping the small tires, no lift, and mountain roads, I'd regear to 3.55 or 3.73 preferably. The D44 snout is about 1" longer than the D35, so your shaft would need to be shortened if you are not going with a small lift. You also might be able to change the slip yoke out for a shorter one depending on what's on it now. The MJ 2WD driveshafts have a rubber sheath that sometimes prevents shaft length changes because they can't be balanced after due to the decomposed rubber rattling around inside. I had to buy a new shaft because of this.

And, what are you driving now? Year, axle, ratio, 2WD/4WD, tranny, etc, etc, ?? 3.07 gears suck for just about everything except freeway driving.

Try disconnecting all the trailer tow wiring from the rear harness.