Htchevyii

An AN solution would be ideal for me! So far, no issues with the clamps on the XJ or MJ. I would feel better if there was a barb though.

Here's how I replaced mine on the MJ and XJ. https://youtu.be/TLPQEVPmYdk?si=Md9ZuM77b4bNRm0J

I managed to snag a genuine Siemens "made with n France" with the direct to ECM wire kit on eBay. I probably won't use the wiring unless I have a problem down the road. The last Mopar CPS that I purchased was the t series and was made in China. I don't know if it was superior to the aftermarket ones or not. In the 33 years since my dad bought the MJ, it's actually never had a bad CPS, although I've changed it several times over the years just because I was there doing a clutch or trans.

Happy 4th!

Oh, I forgot about that. I did use the longer hose kit just to make sure that it fit. It was definitely longer than needed, but I don't know if the shorter one would have worked or not. There is also a kit with the longer hose available.

It comes with multiple adapters. They do sell individual adapters and hose if you can figure out what to get. Summit racing had the whole kit in stock for delivery the next day, so that's the way that I went. https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=716130IR

The later ones use a different line configuration. I used the Advance Adapter braided line kit that allowed me to use the later slave with my original master.

Mine too. 😂 She did go inside the lobby though. All of those eyes looking at you. 😂

You can save it to YouTube and post a link. You can even make it so that it doesn't show up to anyone that doesn't have the link, if you want. Like this one: My wife busted me playing around.

Tonopah NV, the scariest motel I've ever seen. 😬 Directly next door to an old cemetery.

Luckily for myself, my wife enjoys cooking and does the majority of it. I'll usually cook breakfast or something on the grill. I have however started making sourdough things, luckily with the help of my wife, most times. After struggling with stomach issues much of my life, I figured out that breads and such aren't my friends and limited them for years. Until my friend that is apparently smarter than my doctors suggested that I try sourdough. It's been a game changer, we've made bagels, waffles, (regular or savory with cheese and jalapeno), pizza dough, Bao buns and she's made focaccia bread. The waffles and bagels are really easy and the rest not too bad. We usually make a double batch and freeze the rest. If you have trouble with regular breads, I highly recommend that you try it! https://littlespoonfarm.com/sourdough-bagels-recipe/ https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/blog/2019/06/27/sourdough-waffles

Good question. I was told that my 1988 slave/bearing would work when I swapped to the internal slave AX15 25 years ago and it worked fine. Hard to say if the Timken is actually any better or comes out of the same Chinese plat as the rest these days.

I know that they are common in other makes. Looking at one compared to a conventional one, it does seem like they would be more difficult to seal, you've got a donut shape to work with. I've had two bad internals, always the slave that fails. At least the first lasted over 100,000 miles. The last 10,000. I've never had a throwout bearing completely fail out of nowhere, most seem to get by for years even after that start to get noisy. I do remember that the original assembly was metal vs the plastic ones that are now available. I still am skeptical that Jeep would have engineered the system if it wasn't problematic, but if you're happy with it, great!

The internal slave in my LUK kit lasted 10,000 miles before catastrophically failing. It made me so mad after it ruined our trip that I did the external swap. Even new, they were failure prone enough that Jeep redesigned and changed to the external setup. 😡

Hey @EUREKA, I sent you a PM

The junk yard situation is a joke. There's never a junk XJ for sale when you need one. My friend in Medford just sold a WD Comanche that had a bad engine for $300. I was actually in town with the Ram, but also with the wife... I really don't need anymore rigs, but it was temping for the price just incase something like this happens.

I used the Advance Adapter kit as shown in the video. I would have gladly used used Jeep hard parts if I could have found them readily available locally. By the time I pieced it all together and paid a bunch of separate shipping, it wasn't worth it. The AA kit allows the use of the original clutch master with a stainless braided line and adapter to the new slave. I did use a new BCA throughout bearing because the AA one looked kind of cheap. I actually even bought a brand new AX15 from AA and swapped it out at the same time. I don't think that it cost much more than rebuilding my high mileage one would have. We drove home 500 miles without a clutch on that trip.

I bought a NOS 95-96 booster setup. It worked perfectly with a few small modifications, mostly due to the cruise and automatic transmission on the XJ. The Bendix 9 did throw in a few extra curve balls.

The Redline has worked best for me. I wouldn't count out a bad LUK slave cylinder though, mine completely failed with 10,000 on it. I swapped to an Advance Adapters external unit and haven't looked back. https://youtu.be/X2BxkXxtwXU?si=UFPvqo2XcJtZ2KuU

Funny, I just took that thing off when I welded in frame stiffeners inside and out. Although I've had the box out several times, I had never noticed it before, (it's a lot more obvious with the radiator out). It just has one small bolt holding it on, so I'm not sure what it could really be adding? I thought that it some sort of dampener like the ones that I've found in various places in 60's Chevys. Anyways, mine doesn't fit there anymore now. The T&M inner spacer/reinforcement looked like the best one to me. https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=4761900

Oh man, that's a bummer! People in Eureka drive so badly. Any idea how bad it is besides the sheet metal? T&m fab sells a heavy duty piece that goes between the frame rails. I hope you can save it. Can you buy a beater, then fix the MJ and sell the beater? If someone hits mine, we are going to have a big problem. 😡 https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/jeep-cherokee-xj-behind-the-bumper-stiffiners/ I know there are other companies that provide similar support, but this was the first that came up. https://www.theautoappraiser.com/disputed-value By the way, I'd go to the hospital and get checked out. Their insurance should pay for it and should there be a problem later, you'll be in better shape.

I believe it's stated value vs agreed value. Hagerty is agreed value, your premium is based on a set value. With regular insurance policies, you say it's $10,000 they charge you a premium on that amount, but there is no agreement and the can later argue that that value is lower. At least that's how I understood it. There are appraisal services out there you can hire to argue their low ball value if it comes to that https://www.theautoappraiser.com/disputed-value

Later models have a larger drag link. 20mm vs 22mm starting at or about '94. The whole assembly still interchanges. I don't know what could be different on a '91? As big of a PITA as ball joints are to change, I would be hesitant to buy an economy version. Some of not all of the stamped stock replacement control arms are made of thinner metal and tends the bend or break with heavy off road use

The exhaust pipe connection has always been a problem area for myself as well. It seemed like the angle of the aftermarket pipe might be a little of or it could have been my exhaust mount setup. I've recently revised it to make sure the pipe can move when the engine does. I've got a new BRE stainless pipe and it comes with FWD style bolts with springs. I need the get it installed and see how it works.

Don't you hate it, when you're almost done with a job and it suddenly goes bad? I welded an inner and outer reinforcement on the steering box area of the frame. I got everything reinstalled and went to tighten the sway bar bolts (they also hold the steering brace). &+$#! One of the driver's side welded in nuts stripped out. Now to uninstall everything for better access. FYI, you can get to the inside of the frame on the passenger side from the front, but the driver's access is blocked by a reinforcement for the steering box. Pictures of both below. Luckily, the welded in nuts had enough meat that I was able to tap it and install a helicoil. Otherwise, I think you'd be to drill it and weld in a "weld nut" from below. At least it's done, I have the rest of the reinforcement plates to install at some point down the road, but the urgent part is done, (there were some cracks in the steering box area). Summer is here and adventures await.