Akula69

Now: Ow! Daymnit! Later: Hey that was fun...lets do it again! Edit: Glad yer OK Jim...

We had some clunking noises on the 89 and after going thru the majority of the front end discovered the upper track bar mounting bracket hole was slightly elongated, and no matter how tight we made it, shifting ocurred when going over large bumps. Replaced the bracket and still had a slight clunk - turned out the mounting pins for the DS caliper were worn and it was shifting slightly back and forth... These things can be aggravating sometimes :dunno:

If it was closer I'd buy it for $700.00 right now!

Both. Not enough to make a difference though.

Ah, he got that behavior from me. We want as many folks as possible to join our group, because of our desire to preserve these trucks, and we tend to leave messages on random MJ's that we enounter. Writing down the VIN number? Well, I do that too, simply for the forum's records. Even though I can run the VIN - I don't, as it's an invasion of privacy if I don't have a legal reason to do so. However, he is very polite and would never harm anyone elses's property.

Well, I have heard it and its loud, especially in 2nd gear. However, I believe it will tone down some when we complete the 99XJ HO transplant, as we will have to splice the cat from the 99 onboard to get the O2 sensor bungs (to make the obdII work). It does have a nice low tone at idle....

"..All parts are used, and condition is subjective..." Lol, thats an understatement!

Geez. The car I had to use in Drivers Ed (so long ago....) was a Pacer just like the one you have a picture of. Bright yellow with a brown interior. Memories.

Are you looking for a window crank, as in handle to raise and lower the window...or are you looking for a window regulator?

Missing some of the needle bearings in the universal joint? :dunno: Or, a rough spot in the bearing race?

:brows: Well, if he happened to fall into a processing plant they make mighty fine summer sausage....just sayin.

Thats terrible....exposing her like that!! What will the neighbors think!!!

:hmm: 270 amps?!? I had the standard alternator at 65 AMPS and upgraded to the 100 AMP with no problems.

The engine bay harness in Jeeps that have the AW4 have two connectors for it (on the passenger side of the engine bay back by the fire wall and transmission dipstick). I have seen one 4 cylinder MJ that did not have these plugs on the engine bay harness, but by far the majority I have seen have them, even if not used.

Hey...this truck is only 580 miles away....hmmm :peek:

And now fans...it's time for "Let's Make a Deal!" with your host Jim Oshel! :rotf:

A lot of cable companies in Louisiana (phone too) will tie thier gound lead to the first available source (out of laziness)....which is usually the nearest hose bib outside. If what Don said is true (and I believe he is probably correct) the static electricity is jumping to the cable to try and find a "better" way out. I forced our installers to tie into the 10 foot ground rod by the panel to avoid that.

:yeah that: Or small claims court.

Recently I picked up a 99 XJ Classic with the 8.25 rear axle. This vehicle was totaled by a hard hit in the 'b' pillar on the passenger side that bent the floor pan beyond repair. I do not believe the axle was struck, but the rear tire was flattened and the rim was bent slightly. The vehicle runs and drives, but because of the bent rim it rolls funny (like an egg) on the back right. I cannot visually see that the axle is bent, but are there any "tricks" to see if it was damaged? (other then getting is professionally checked). I can see the front spring shackle is twisted upward slightly (due to the impact damage that "pulled it" along with the frame). The shackle is pulled in about 1 to 11/2 inch. First look: Thanks!

Recently I picked up a 1999 Cherokee Classic 4X4 that had been totaled. It will be the donor for my up coming 89MJ to 99 conversion, but I plan to use the carpet in my 87 MJ (as the 89 already has new carpet). Someone on here had tried to clean the OEM carpet by taking it to the local car wash (wand type) and pressure washing it. I can't find the thread, but I have some questions: 1) Do you remove the pad first? if so, did it get cleaned also or just replaced? 2) Did you use any special cleaner, or just reqular soap? I know some folks have dyed the carpet with paint, but this one is in good shape (other then very dirty) with some rust stains where the seat brackets were located. Does anyone know of a product that removes the rust stains? Thanks!

Thats not really unusual - I had the some of the same comments down here when I went looking at shops. After a few I finally asked one guy if he had a legitimate reason or was just trying to pad the bill, and his response was that they had tried to work with folks in the past (in that way) but found they had many "call backs" as the vehicle owner would damage the paint job during re-assembly, then try to say it was a faulty paint job. Most folks would agree a lot can go wrong if you do it yourself, but after taking our time and getting some good advice we did it ourselves. Materials and paint probably cost us about $500.00 total, and probably about 80 hours labor ( two guys) for parts removal/re-install, body work, sanding and prep, painting and buffing. The actual painting only took 1/2 a day.

That explains a lot! I kept finding the bulb under the dash was changed to a red one all the time!

He!!, I'd buy him briskets just to watch that! Nice friend you got there.

nm - saw the column shift note.

Actually have a couple of them. Don't know what kind of shape they are in - will have to dig them out of the trailer. How quickly you need them?