Akula69

In my son's case, we welded the top rails back in, and actually had to fabricate a new section for the driver's side. I would not recommend leaving them off, even with the 23 gauge pans we got from Raybuck. See the pics here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38725-89-resto-to-99-conversion/

Floor pans were from Raybuck Autobody Parts out of Punxsutawney, PA. $78.50 each.The shipping was harsh ($45.00), but the pans arrived in pristine condition despite the shipping box being mauled in the big brown truck. They are listed for the XJ, but work just as well for our trucks. Here ya go: http://raybuck.com/c-54807-repair-panels-jeep-1984-2001-cherokee-xj.html We did not buy the rear pan set, a friend of mine has a metal brake so we fabricated a section of the donor XJ roof panel into the rear pan, as well as replacing a section of the top frame rail that was too far gone. The paint gun is a SATA Jet 90, which, (if I had to guess) is about 30 years old.

He bought the cherokee, not me (well, I found it, but thats beside the point). He's paying his way...and I'm proud that he's taken that responsibility.

don't know about the 95 sender. We are planning to use the 98 sender, but I also have a 92 sender as well.

Depends upon the type used. Most all will sand, but enamel-based primer will gum the paper up faster. Urethane-based primer/sealer sands easier. Laquer-based primre can be removed with laquer thinner (but makes a mess). All-in-all? Sanding (preferably with a DA) is the way to go with 100-120 grit. Follow up with an urethane-based primer/sealer.

I don't know if you seen the whole clip, but at the end one of the guys takes a demo saw and cuts the pool side (supposedly to get the XJ out) almost drowning himself and the cameraman in the process. I had searched it on google but can't find the origional at this moment (somebody post it!). EDIT: Here it is http://www.cinemablend.com/pop/Watch-Crazy-Canadians-Try-Jump-Jeep-Over-Pool-56597.html

Check the ignition module, mounted on the steering column lower right side near the firewall. It will have two rather large plugs in it. Occasionally, the current draw from the interior electronics will partially melt the contacts inside, causing symptoms like what you describe. The clicking noises could be solonoids (mounted on the lower front of the HVAC housing) which control electric windows and/or electric radio antenna. (Truck does not have to have these features for the solonoids to be there- weird, I know :hmm: ).

Well....think about it: GM still owes Uncle Sam buttloads of money...but Chrysler/Jeep have paid them off....... Besides, the NHSTB had the same problems with our Crown Victoria Police Interceptors, and the Ford dealership here retrofitted a plate on the back of the diff cover that deflected the tank downward in a rear impact where it...uh...hits the ground and...uh.. ruptures. Whoohoo it's fixed!

If everything goes as planned (yeah right!) my son and I should be solvig this problem some time next week. We will be installing a 95 dakota tank with a 98 dakota sender (to nake the fuel gauge read correctly). We will document with pictures.

Used to have a crazy old dude where I lived as a kid that ate the leaves...said they would "cure" the effect of the sap on the skin. One day, a girl that was at the sitter my parents used took him up on it. She was in the hospital for a week for the blisters in her mouth and throat. The stuff never did effect the old dude...and I watched him eat them. Crazy :hmm: :nuts: ***Disclaimer** This is a true story, but if anyone tries this I think you are a dumb s#!t

the red one have a 318? (Hoping!!!!) my wife had a dart that had a 318 and that thing would s*&t and get.

Missed this thread somehow... Yes, still have some of the sealing grommets. PM me if you want a set.

We have a long bed with some damage at the rear. There is no rust on the bed, and it was recently painted (2009). I can send you pictures if you like.. bu it is in Louisiana.

Did not realize my son had started his own thread about this project. I'll refer ya'll over to his thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38725-89-resto-to-99-conversion/

Although we are starting our 89-99 conversion end of this week, I went ahead and purchased a one core standard radiator (Spectra pro I believe) from Rockauto. I know, it has the plastic tanks and all, but we believe in starting with that and then going to the two row radiator (all aluminum) if the cooling isn't right. and yes - I read your thread. :yes:

Nice Truck - Congratulations

I have been trying to figure out the filler modification that was done here. Best I can see is the origional poster took the fuel filler neck (out of the bedside) and reversed it, inserting the nozzle end into the grommet on the tank, then bolting it through the tank itself. It appears he then cut the majority of the metal filler neck off and attached rubber hoses (to clear the frame rail on the MJ). The origional part numbers for the extension of the filler neck show no longer available (the hard pipe that went through the frame rail on the Dakota). Close up Pic: I still don't understand why he added the vent connections (because the new sender has vent connections on it...). I am going to modify the curved rib which pushes the tank towards the DS when mounted. I'll post up pics when done.

Understand about 'putting the foot into it'. After going through all the things you have (and more) I realized it was happening when I was on the interstate and accelerating hard. I don't know about stainless, but I suppose it would work. I was able to find several hoses that had "ribbing" on the outside of the hose, but it was not wire just rubber "ridges". When I removed the old hose the spring basically fell apart when I tried to take it out. The Chevy hose's spring looked like galvanized steel and all I did was reach into the water pump end and grab the spring with a pair of vice grips. When twisted clockwise it became smaller, and I was able to pull it out. I lubricated the new hose with water and then threaded it in (from the water pump side). The spring didn't like the bends, so I fashioned a 'puller' from a strong coat hanger and snagged it from the other end to help pull it into place (while still threading it in).

Did you replace the botom radiator hose, and if so, did you buy one that has the spring insode, or did you remove and re-insert the old spring. I had the exact symptoms you are experienceing, and only by chance stopped when it was overheating and quickly opened the hood to see that the bottom hose I had just replaced was partially closed due to the natural vaccum from the water pump. Could not find a 4.0L hose with the spring, so I ended up purchasing a hose for a Chevy 350cc hose with the new spring, pulling it out, and then threading it into the Jeep hose. (Chevy hose came from NAPA). I ran through all the things you have and would post the topic but cannot locate it now. No problems since.

Gator, as in alligator

Weird - sounds just like mine when I had a bad idler pulley, but I see you replaced yours already. Did the sound change at all (after you replaced the idler pulley) and put the new belt back on?

I was just thinking this today while I changed the A/C compresser in the 04 WJ. I had to pull off the P/S unit, the air box and still had to wedge my arm in a space that must have been designed for a midget. I know it must be done by a guy with double joints in his elbow at the factory.

I would imagine the shipping would be more then the value of the scrap metal :doh: Best place to start would be for you to measure up your bed until you reach solid metal and let me know what that size/shape is. Pm me with the information.

Engine Rebuild: Sent the block and head to the machine shop for a quick check: magnafluxed and no cracks found, had them press in the pins and cam bearings. Cylinders had no ridge, so boring was not necessary. Went back with std. size pistons/rings/bearings/crank. We have to tape the openings to keep critters out intil install: Transmission/Transfer case ready to go: Next: Stripping the 89: fitting replacement floor pans and firewall modifications.

the 89-99 conversion on the MJ originally called the "Christmas Jeep". The MJ was bone stock 2WD when started, we did a rebuild on it that finished back in August 0f 2009, and now we are going to upgrade to the 1999 interior and 4WD. Its a slow start, but we plan on finishing up this summer (May/June 2013). The receiver at the start: Receiver now: Donor: Obviously totaled: Beginning work: Head removed: Bottom end: Transfer case / Tranny: Meanwhile, someone decided to get really close to the receiver's rear end.... We decided to get a replacement bed instead of trying to beat all the new angles out of this one. If anyone's interested in this one let me know. Next: Engine rebuild.