johnnyc

I know someone who has done the swap. He says if he it to do all over again...he wouldn't. The time and effort wasn't worth the final result. Not trying to discourage you. Personally, I think the newer interior looks a lot better. I've done the 97+ doors and I'm planning to do the 97+ front clip. But that's about it.

We just put 97 doors on my MJ a couple months ago. The MJ originally had manual windows and locks, so a lot of wiring was involved to get the power windows and locks working. Pete Trasborg from JP Magazine did all the wiring. As we did the swap, he was taking notes and pictures for an article he's doing. So the writeup will be in the magazine in a few months. The doors themselves are easy to swap on. You just have to drill a new hole since the 97+ striker is a two-bolt plate.

There's really nothing holding the headliner in the back. You have to remove the two side panels, then it should drop right out. At least mine did.

Take the serp belt off and spin the pullies by hand. You should be able to tell which one is bad. For me, as Eagle said, it was the idler pulley. Soap and belt dressing only cover up the squealing. They don't fix the cause of the squealing.

The XJ in the junkyard didn't have a controller? You could put it in the door panel or in one of those blank panels on the dash, if you have one. Or you could get some 97+ XJ door panels and modify them to fit. I have power mirrors on my MJ. But I have the whole complete doors from a 97 XJ.

Cool. Welcome back Bo! Post up some pics when you get her.

That's another good reason for dropping the tank. If you don't know what it looks like, it's kinda hard to to get that tube into the hole. The first time I did it, I just guessed that I got it in. :D When we dropped the tank, I saw that the rubber conical grommet had fallen off and was laying in the bottom of the tank. It would have been impossible to retrieve the grommet had we not dropped the tank.

I just went through this on mine. I tried to do it without dropping the tank. But that only resulted in a major leak due to the o-ring and locknut not seating properly. Did it again, this time dropping the tank. It was much, much easier doing it this way. You can see into the tank to make sure that everything is in the proper position. And it's a lot easier to get the lockring on too. I would suggest getting the proper o-ring from the dealer. The aftermarket ones I've seen are squared, as opposed to being round.

I have 97 doors on my MJ, so I have the two extra switches. I don't even notice it. Someone said that I should use those extra switches to wire up an interior winch control. Great idea, but the MJ doesn't have a winch...yet. ;)

You gotta remember. That's not $595 for a 4.0 engine. That's the difference in price between the base 4 cyl engine and the 4.0. :)

Take a look at some of the MJs at http://www.xjdb.com/modules/gallery2/ma ... temId=3725

This may have changed as the years went on. My 92 Pioneer came with an idiot cluster. I bought it from the original owners and I am pretty sure that these people did not do any cluster swapping. The only swap that they did was going from a bench seat to buckets.

That would be a short bed. What's your location? I have a shortbed drop-in bedliner that I'm gonna be selling.

And assuming that the clock is the same year as the Jeep.

Mine didn't. The last year for the dash clock was 91. ;)

I ran the constant wire to the fuse box, the switched wire and the ground wire to the cigarette lighter.

I used this site to wire up my dash clock. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm I only used three wires - constant power, switched power, and ground. I didn't bother with the dimmer wire.

Got the 97 doors on the MJ on Saturday. I now have power windows, locks, and mirrors. And no more wing windows. The doors were white, so I was just going to primer the doors gray to make it close. But I got a a little carried away and sprayed the whole cab.

Nope, the ZJ had either the D35 or the D44A.

I did the swap on my XJ using parts from a ZJ with the D44A. You have to enlarge the holes in the backing plates a bit to make them fit on the 8.25. But other than that, it's pretty easy.

Are you sure you wired it up right? When I first put in the bigger light, I used the red and black wires, thinking that was logical. The light would come on when I toggled the switch, but not when I opened the door. No big deal I thought. Then when I put in the flush mount lights, I used my multimeter to determine that the door switch was the yellow wire. So I wired up the red and yellow wires, and now it works with the door open and with the headlight switch. I left the black wire unattached.

I just picked up some 97+ weatherstripping from the junkyard today. When I put it on, it seemed that I would need some sort of adhesive. But once it's in place, the plastic trim holds it all in place.

They turn on with the doors open or with the knob.

Funny. I just put that exact same light on the driver's side a couple of days ago. I didn't like how much they stuck out, so I bought two of the flush mount lights that everyone here has been putting in. And I just put in some LED bulbs today to make them brighter. The nice thing about that bigger light is that it takes an 1157 bulb, instead of the smaller 194 bulbs.

I had to replace my fuel pressure regulator because it had developed a leak and I figured it was easier to replace the whole thing rather than chase down the correct o-rings. Cost $30-some at Kragen.