Jerry

No it's not air horn loud but it's much louder than stock. 130 something decibels I believe, loud enough to get the attention of any driver even with windows rolled up and music blasting (In my experience anyway). Gotta be a pair though (hi + lo tone). I recommend them as a much more simple replacement than air horns with all their compressors and relays and pipes. Worth noting that you cannot tell properly by listening to a video that has automatic electronic noise leveling. You can hear the tone but not the volume.

The Fiamm electric horns work real well and they are cheap. $30 something for a pair (hi+lo tone). http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DINKPQ

+1 :D

When the sway bar bushes wear they contact the coil spring on hard lock. If that's what it is you're likely to see marks on the spring. Did on mine anyways.

Worth noting, there's a few folk here with lowly 2.8's with many miles up and no issues! Mine runs super smooth. I had more trouble with the tranny than the motor. Nice simple setup without all the electrical gremlins associated with FI and all its sensors. Yes the 4.0L is much better but don't ignore a good example with a 2.8 if that's what's on offer. Mine did a fine job of hauling until it retired when I bought a 4.0L looking for more power.

I needed a robust utility vehicle that could do everyday tasks and then take us dirt road exploring on weekends.

Email her a link to this thread :D

Like the paint!

Throw an old blanket on the hood...

Thanks for the info guys

Been thinking of adding a sway bar. Are they available off the shelf for the Comanche? Or would l be looking at custom build?

Easy to tip over. Rebelfish's is fine though, it's a drop top with a low C of G. I drive mine very carefully, mostly.

Nice rig! Is that an a/c unit in the back? I use airlift levellers on my rig. There ok but not perfect, fitting them was a real pia. I like the fancy new style organic flip flop camper jack you've put on the rear left top pic, looks very stable ;)

MJ saves the day ;) looks like I need to update my E-kit, what do the dry wall screws come in handy for?

Well done! Bet you never thought all the effort to build it would have such a bonus result. Getting a job out of it makes all the swearing, empty wallet and skinned knuckles easily worth it! Good to know there's another comanche addict nearby too, my favorite camp spot is just west of Oliver :)

Brilliant :)

Here's a couple: Swiss army knife(useful tools) avast(security, device remote lock and wipe) ulysse speedometer(dash board fun for your Comanche) gps status(dynamic tech info on GPS system) Orux maps(offline mapping) My tracks(logs mapping data of your travels) Universal remote(control your PC and other devices from the phone) App backup and restore(obvious) App organizer(home screen folders for your apps) temple run(simple time waster game with great graphics) All free btw :)

A while back I had a gear box problem that sounds similar to yours. It was a broken part in the selector gate. The box was fine but I couldn't get any gears apart from reverse. The broken part was replaced and it's been fine since. The box had to be dropped though to replace said part, not a small job!

Look forward to seeing your travel photos in that nice Rig :)

Great, thanks for the info guys. To clarify, I'm talking about the plug as shown in the diagram (thanks mvusse). I flushed the cooling system couple years back and when I went to re-fill I could only get half the specified amount of coolant back in. I think that was because I didn't take out the block drain plug and that must have left quite a lot of water in the system and crud sitting in the bottom of the block. I've just checked it yesterday and there's a ton of brown sediment in the coolant, probably rust so I want to give the system a real good clear out. I have an airline. Recommendations? Bottom and top hoses off at block and blast away with the air line? Rinse and repeat? Sound like a plan? Avoids having to extract a probably very rusty and inaccessible drain plug. TIA :)

Thanks in advance :)

So the conclusion is ... While more complicated, the injection system's benefits are worth it. Must say, I hadn't considered climb angles! But I do very much notice the difference in how my 4.0L with its injection system doesn't lose power when altitude in the mountains is a factor compared to the 2.8L with its carb. That gets very out of breath climbing through high elevation passes!

Do tell ... :) Edit: thought you'd tried it sir, but now I'm thinking you're just in agreement that life would be simpler :D

Just a random thought. Seems almost all 4.0L & 2.5L motor problems I read in the tech section, mine included, are related to sensor this or sensor that. I was thinking wouldn't life be simpler with a well set up carb?

Ulysse speedometer