Jerry

;)

So much to learn! I didn't know you could even get a two core rad. In a quest for cooling knowledge, just wondering if there's a pro & cons between a 2 or 3 row rad? Why do you prefer the 2 row? :wrench: Edit: Now I understand :thumbsup:

Juliet's a beaut! Another book to add to your reading list: "The Soul of a Horse" - http://www.thesoulofahorse.com/NakedHorseBookIntro.htm Rode some of the Nez Perce trail years back, gives perspective on what Chief Joseph's people went through. They were running a high pace over 1200 miles in very rough terrain, crossing rivers with all their gear and horses and for days straight trying to escape the army.

That's a reeeal nice rad! Looks really well constructed. Worth noting though (having just checked their website cursing madly that I didn't know about them before I just replaced mine :D ) that the one shown isn't up to towing or slow/hot wheeling, it's an OE replacement single row. Quote from site: And the Extreme TT is rather more expensive! Radiator Barn do 3-row & a single . . . .

Thanks for the tip Pete :wrench:

Great! Thanks loads :bowdown: That's what I need, a simple explanation for a simple guy :thumbsup:

Nuffin, just UJ's, the guy said it's a time consuming job even if nothing is seized. Can you describe what a 'wheel joint' is? Sorry, I learnt all I know on the other side of the Atlantic and the terminology for engineering stuff is totally different to here :doh: Thanks for the info :thumbsup:

Radiator Barn :thumbsup:

I ain't done this before on any vehicle so was just wondering how difficult it is and if any special tools or methods are needed? Garage quoted $600 for this job! :eek: Maybe any helpful tips or links? :thumbsup: Ooh! And it's a Dana 30. Thanks in advance :wrench:

Wait till you got two of the buggers on the road at once, then the fun really begins :D :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:

+1 :fs1: The seller of this bike has just lost another possible buyer! http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/mcy/2518953295.html Saying "I don't do email" is as bad as the luddites who say "I don't do text".

You know you drive an MJ if...... you post stuff on the "what did you do to your MJ today?" thread every day :yes:

Very nice! It's a big fun play toy. Not really a "Pick-up" tho', a psuedo pick-up. Pick-ups have boxes big enough to actually carry sh*t AND they can play, like an MJ really ;)

:D

What's the benefit of a torx type drive?

Worth checking for any small leaks in the rad or hoses :wrench: Small leaks will cause spewing forth of coolant too (on a sealed system) :thumbsup:

x2 Probably why the motors last so long. Gives the oil time to pressure up & circulate.

Pulled the old rad in anticipation of the nice new all metal 3 row jobbie that's winging it's way from Jacksonville, FL as i type :banana:

I rigged mine inline but before the fluid enters the main rad. The logic? Based on advice from "a mechanic" . . . . . . In the winter the trans fluid needs to be brought up to operating temperature. The outside temp drops down to 10degreesF (-12C) occasionally around here or when I head up into the mountains so without going through the main rad after the trans cooler the atf will get too cold and may cause trouble. The factory design keeps the trans fluid close to whatever temp the motor is running at. Useful auto trans info - http://oldihc.org/automatic-transmission-cooling-2 Worth mentioning I think for anyone installing a cooler and bypassing the main radiator:

Bump :brows: Anyone got some input about this? As far as I can see the heater valve on my truck is an inline type so if I just replace the heater hoses from the block to the heater core with generic heater hosing which gets rid of the all the T junctions and then put the valve back inline that should work fine shouldn't it? Or is there something I'm not aware of about the valves? :dunno: I have no A/C so being able to have a bit of cool air on my feet in the heat of summer is essential! I can't do that if I remove the valve completely from the system.

OK! Final radiator question! Promise! If I get a rad with a filler neck will it fit with the standard airbox? Thaaaaanks

:cheers: :thumbsup:

More questions guys :oops: If I get a new open system rad and fit it is there any reason why I would have to do the open system conversion right away? Or will I get problems? Reason? . . . I don't think I'm going to be able to source all the required parts (except the rad) for the conversion before I need to use the truck on a camping trip. My surge tank and hoses are not leaking (yet!) just the old radiator. :cheers:

I'm tooling up to set up my 'open cooling system' this week. Just about to start ordering parts and got a couple question. . . . . . . Pros/cons of having the rad with a filler neck or one without? And Why do I need a new heater flow control valve? :dunno:

Do the Radiator Barn ones have all the same fittings for the shrouds etc as the original?