87ComancheLB

I actually thought about that running dual exhaust, but it came with a bottom peice that tied the 2 ends together back to the cat. 1st year I owned my Jeep and and the stock one cracked. I also didn't want to go back to the stock only to have it happen all over again, few years later I believe they issued a recall. By comparing how much more free flowing it is compare to the stock, you will get a nice performance boost.

I installed a set from him, before engine would idle high sometime gets stuck idling high would always have to play around with the gas pedal thinking it was stuck on the throttle body or something like the choke was on. Now after I installing these all those problems are gone now idles rather low like just above the lowest line on the tach idles and runs alot smoother, gas mileage seems a lot better too. :cheers:

My pacesetter after 20 years needed a fresh coat of paint (por-20) ready for another +20, yeah it was worth it! Image Not Found

I already did! :cheers:

Wow wish I could do that at my park, we are not allowed to perform any major repairs like that or my 87 would have been lifted. We can't even do an oil change due to possible spills, but some of us still do just be extra careful not to cause any major stains and do it discreetly. I was just suggesting once you get it all cleaned up to epoxy the concrete to make clean up alot easier in the future.

I know about management complaining, not that I ever had any major stains or complaints, but after seeing mfpdm epoxy floor in his garage and the mess he made. I decided to do my driveway, wished I used the single mix instead of the kit, but came out nice. I live in a mobilehome park but it's paid off and rent when I 1st moved in was $330 a month goes up $5 a yr due to rent control board. (senior +55 park) I'm only 49 but 60/40 rules. No kids very peaceful until the ambulance comes for the dead. :cheers: Image Not Found Image Not Found

Here's mine. 2 stroke twin engine 1/8 scale 4wd comanche. LOL Wanna race? :brows: Image Not Found Image Not Found

Hi, I installed a pacesetter way back in 88, ever since the stock one cracked, no recall at that time. Has lasted 20 yrs. I just removed it for some rust removal and some new paint (por 15 Hi-temp). The one you pictured no better than stock or worst. Should be good for another 20 yrs. Paid $129 back in 88. Image Not Found

Well I don't know why they called them nerf bars. But it's up to you how you want them mounted I seen some further back from where mine are mounted but with your built in step should be right next to door. :cheers:

That seems a bit odd appears to be a different compressor. Mine hooks up vertically your's horizontally. Here's the AC I'm putting in my MJ off a 93 XJ. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

So if you got a timing light and put it on the no:1 cylinder and strobe it against the timing mark and loosen the clamp on the distributor and tried advancing or retarding the timing it would not move?

Thanks

Ok Guys almost done with the swap but I need some help in the wiring section compressor has one wire drier has 2 wires I need to know how to hooked these up and anything else I need to do. I got the all connectors and a lot of wires. Thanks

1st one Long rod, second one OK but pricey.

I guess I would checked the harness etc if you have a multimeter you can ohm out the wires, is there a PDF file for the electrical schematics somewhere online? it would help trace it back into the firewall and under the dash or try turning it on and grab some wires underneath wiggle them around to see if it moves the needle if it does then you might have a intermittant problem could also be a pin contact problem in a connector not making good contact etc.

Why does your truck have a million electrical problems? If you replaced both items then it has to be in the interface between the sensor to the gauge, sounds like a open loop or grounding issue.

I think your better off just getting the correct one, base on that article cost was $20 to swap and $25 to ship back and forth, prices probably gone up by then. There one here in my local Pick your part but they charge way too much. $25 for the booster $25 for the MC and $25 for the prop block, you guys back east get great prices compare to west coast at least this JY. I paid $54 for my booster and MC. Last night I clicked to see if you bought it, but you decided to wait and now it's gone. Oh well next time.

Wow that's cheap, that should be OK as long as he stated the year correctly. Short rod OK, Long rod Bad. Ask if he has the spacer you may need it. Also you can reuse the same lines thats on the master cylinder just get one of thos cheap tube bending tool and bend them enough to fit they bolt up perfectly.

Here's the link should explain everything. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm

If you get the correct one just use your existing brake switch just cut off a flat side, ( I just use a cut-off wheel ) drill out the hole to match your stock size use the same hardware and your done. :brows: Mine was from a auto trans slightly shorter than the stock no need for spacer (used RTV for seal) came out perfect. Image Not Found

It did in the beginning but after about 2 weeks the smell was gone. I notice while installing the AC I need to do the engine floorboards under the battery holder some surface rust already knock it down just need to add some more there I knew I forgot something.

Xylol

I herculine the inside cab and nerf bars, prep is the key I didn't use scouring pad but coarse sandpaper 80 grit, wipe down with Xylol. Get one of those mixing tool attached to a drill, stuff is pretty thick can be diluted with Xylol and get rubber gloves if this stuff gets on your skin and it drys forget about removing it almost impossible, can be removed when still moist and with xylol.

Yeah the same I just pulled a 92 HO compressor bracket bolted up perfectly on the 87 in process adding AC. I doubt they would have change block/head design maybe internally change alittle but externally the same.

O2 sensor my guess.