87ComancheLB

Hi, How about a 87 Lb 4.0 once in a lifetime deal original owner better than new, get it all $10k, windshield needs replacement has a small crack. needs new paint..http://comancheclub.com/topic/8502-1987comanchelb/

Sort of Pete image icon link still doesn't work, it just locks up unless I exit the page In firefox at least it allows me to copy paste so I just have to type in the image tags.

Recent upgrades I guess after 27 years I could use some new battery cables and connectors, original 4 gauge looked pretty rough. 2 gauge SGX 4 foot of black and 3 foot of red.Perfect fit goes around the Evap canistor. Bought by the foot on Ebay. Image Not Found Military Battery connectors and covers $25 I wanted a low profile. I used the original 4 gauge to accessories post. Image Not Found I like this mod cleared up alot space easier to work on, cleaned up the vaccuum tree garbage, Image Not Found I hardwired the C101 and another small connector. I used small strands from the 4 gauge wire to wrapped each wire tightly together before soldering then shrink tubing. Image Not Found Enough space for another battery. I will be reloacting the deep cycle here and redoing the dual battery charging system. Image Not Found The magic sticker. Image Not Found

Ok I downloaded Firefox I guess Windows 7 and Internet Explorer 11 for some reason won't let me copy paste and I have to type in the IMG tags and then paste...

I have the same issue, I can't even do a copy paste issue show nothing I try resetting IE and restarted Windows 7. The same I thought maybe some kind of Malware.

Were the injectors upgraded from single port to 4 ports? Like I said I believe but not sure if there was a vacuum leak on mine all I know is it no longer restarting at high idle, maybe the older single injectors had sticking problems was the reason I changed them on mine and all is good now.

I had the same problem with my 87 Renix it would restart up at high rpm and I would constantly try and blipped the throttle trying to get it back down. I ended up replacing all the single port injectors to 4 ports and I believe I also had a small vacuum leak somewhere on the intake manifold to the head I replace with new gasket, anyways the problem is no longer there gone completely feels great I lived with this problem for a long time. Hope this helps. What's the most important tip you'd share with MJ owner...Bottom of page one.

I don't think that was my problem after the oil and filter changed it was working ok then one day it just showed no oil pressure. I believe the oil pump was spinning but no oil was flowing through the block as the lifters were rattling a lot due to no oil flow. I then placed the new oil filter on and started it with the old oil and nothing no pressure then I changed out the oil and primed it with drill all is good now...

Hey all it's been a long time and I just had the same problem. I just put new gauges awhile back and the oil pressured dropped to zero and I just recently put in a new oil and filter (Valvoline and Fram) ??? and after some troubleshooting elimination the gauge, sensor I then removed the oil filter and there was no oil in the filter even though the oil pan was full. I then decide to change the oil and filter again with Pennzoil 10W-30W and new WIX oil filter (No it wasn't the filter) this time as a last resort before I drop the pan. I then remove the distributor and primed the oil pump took awhile until I saw the oil coming out at oil filter housing. Oil pressure is over 40psi at Idle just like it was before, my question is why didn't the oil pump, pump when the engine was running with no oil flowing even though it was a making contact was it air bubbles, cheap oil or is the oil pump going bad? Truck only has 86K original miles.

If any of the surface has clean bare metal it will need to be prep with metal ready to etch it or it won't stick. Doesn't cost much and it will be worth it.

I had mine for over 20 yrs now (Pacesetter) no complaints. Been painted a few times latest with por20. Better flow more HP. Image Not Found

Thanks Guy's I'm sorry I haven't been working on it. I took a break and ended up working on my 2003 Avalanche which has more rust than my 23 yr old MJ. lol The frame not even painted has waxy grease undercoating that can be wiped off with gas or xylol exposing bare steel. Image Not Found Image Not Found Steel treated with Metal ready if not used then por15 won't stick,too smooth needs to be etch. Well she rust proof now, frame, diff's, driveshaft etc all coated in por15. :yes: Image Not Found AV been done long ago I guess I need to start working on the MJ again. :shake:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1734800328.html

I added a cruise control I got from J.C.Whitney some 20 years on my 87 w/ ba-10, still working great cuts out with brake or clutch was made for the MJ back then I mounted the throttle servo next to the airbox. Image Not Found Came with Vaccum ball, I mounted it here and a new lever. Image Not Found And I do use it alot to save on gas.

All the software I downloaded won't run. I can reformat the C drive only nothing important there, but It's been awhile since I formatted, is it the same with the start up disk floppy with F-Disk, kind of forgot how to go about it. Been ages if you know what I mean. :ack: OK nevermind.

I tried that link, just takes me to my post to reply? I tried this I didn't see anything wrong?

Thanks for your help but I get an error when running spybot the program say TUSRPOP.DLL not a valid image? :dunno:

Thanks for the replies seems like I'm having another problem with my search engines. If I use google or Yahoo search it redirect me to other sites. I tried searching for info but you know how that goes. Seems like a virus would like this corrected driving me nuts. :fs1: Perhaps someone here without this problem can search for answers. Thanks

Thanks, It's gone I use You-Tube for the info work great. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxloLZQVZIs

Guys I need your help I did something stupid and got this Virus and I thought I got rid of it by running McAfee it show it was detected and deleted all signs were gone but when I rebooted it came back. I tried searching the net for info but everytime it redirects me so I can't read anything about it. If someone can do a search about how to get rid of this and post the info here I will appreciated. Thanks

Here's a link I bookmarked for future reference. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRearMain.htm

Had alot of Por-20 high temp silver left over from painting the headers decided to paint the exhaust while it's off. Replace once hi-flow converter from J.C Whitney. Image Not Found Replace once with Stainless Steel Borla from J.C Whitney. Image Not Found Original piping from the muffler back. Image Not Found Found 4 small pin hole along seam seal with Por-patch. Will see how long it will last a lot rust came out of the tail pipe. Image Not Found

Took a break, ok back to work. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Can't forget the tank. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Here something I saw in the por15 catalog, if you have an air compressor you could do it yourself and save $$$ por 15 the bed then use this product. 1 gallon kit enough to do 125 Square feet. http://www.por15.com/POW-R-LINER-KIT/productinfo/PLBK/ Should be enough to do the bed for $45. http://www.por15.com/POW-R-LINER-QUART-KIT/productinfo/PLQB/

Thanks I wished he could of taken a photo of the rear axle. Anyways I'm going to have to pass too far away from me like 320 miles round trip. here's the link if anyone else is interested. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1326039402.html Additional pictures were sent. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found